Which is it Richie? Looks a bit like a UA4C.
-
The Z Club relies on the support of it's paid members - join the club or renew your membership here.
What did you do to your Z this week?
- Thread starter jonbills
- Start date
richiep
Club Member
It’s made by ECULAB, but yes, it’s like the DIY-EFI UA4C, with the Arduino MEGA2560 and also a MAX9921 Hall effect sensor interface sitting on top. Has two 18-pin sockets and comes with the male connectors and pins to populate with wires.
The seller had bought it for rallying with a 4-cyl Pinto engine, but class rules changed and it was surplus. Cost me £199!!! Rather pleased!
Faster Behr
Club Member
Fantastic job on those decals. They look great.
Fairlineguy
Club Member
Ducky
Club Member
My few wiring fixes has got out of hand and basically replacing the lot and doing upgrades.
Found a lot of issues with original harness so rebuilding pretty much all of it. Engine and rear harnesses will be completely replaced and dash a lot changed with new fuse box.
This week got the brake, dome, reverse and running lights working. Just need turn signal flasher and they're done. On the hunt for a 280 volt meter as well.
Head light relay and honda wiper motor upgrades next up.
Found a lot of issues with original harness so rebuilding pretty much all of it. Engine and rear harnesses will be completely replaced and dash a lot changed with new fuse box.
This week got the brake, dome, reverse and running lights working. Just need turn signal flasher and they're done. On the hunt for a 280 volt meter as well.
Head light relay and honda wiper motor upgrades next up.
richiep
Club Member
Yesterday’s attempt to get the Z back on the road for the year did not go well. Ignition was sporadic. Turned over maybe once in every 20-30 turns of the key. Everything has power; the extra relay I have on the ignition to provide 12V directly to the solenoid was clicking but zero was happening at the starter. I’ve got a spare starter I can swap on but it’s all going to be down to the wire next weekend before Japfest. If I can’t figure it out, I’ll be in the Celica…
arcdef
Club Member
Tried fitting a techno toy tuning tri brace to my Z but now can't get the bonnet to close flush, hood pin is adjusted all the way in and bonnet is still around 5mm proud 
.
Can anyone measure the distance from the hood latch bracket to the top of the firewall please? I wonder if my bracket has been moved at some point in its life.
. Can anyone measure the distance from the hood latch bracket to the top of the firewall please? I wonder if my bracket has been moved at some point in its life.
Attachments
arcdef
Club Member
I think you are right!
If anyone is able to measure their firewall for me it would be much appreciated so I know if I should persevere with this or not!
Albrecht
Well-Known Forum User
Tried fitting a techno toy tuning tri brace to my Z but now can't get the bonnet to close flush, hood pin is adjusted all the way in and bonnet is still around 5mm proud
Can anyone measure the distance from the hood latch bracket to the top of the firewall please? I wonder if my bracket has been moved at some point in its life.
I would think it very unlikely that the hood latch bracket has been moved from the position that it was originally welded to the bodyshell at the factory. Bashed or bent down maybe. Taking engine out/putting engine in can sometimes lead to a bash and I've often seen transmissions suspended by a rope from the latch bracket, but if it was way out of line on your car I'd expect it to have been a problem before you fitted the T3 tri-brace mount.
Here's a question; Do T3 make any specific mention of the difference between LHD and RHD latch types in their marketing/instructions for this product? Latches are handed. How do T3 handle the difference?
arcdef
Club Member
I sure hope it hasnt but the reason I asked is the car has had an engine change and clearance is tight so thought maybe the latch could have been moved up slightly.
They do sell different plates for LHD and RHD.
Albrecht
Well-Known Forum User
Ah, right. I see.
I'm not close to a car that I can measure the latch mount bracket position on at the moment. Maybe someone else can?
Got a pic? I'm not sure what the rubber isolator is.
arcdef
Club Member
Alphabettispaghetti
Club Member
if you have issues, I can't see the 'tri' brace adding anything over a normal strut brace, based on how flexible the bulkhead is. can you run it without the rear arms?
arcdef
Club Member
I cant run a standard bar as my engine is too high so just going to run the bars going back to the fire wall. Maybe im sad but even if performance is limited they look pretty cool
Albrecht
Well-Known Forum User
Good. The rubber isolator was a sort of bump stop to soften the impact of the bonnet being slammed closed. A slim rubber (tap?) washer might be a good substitute if it will fit. A little bit of protection.