What did you do to your Z this week?

richiep

Club Member
Not a Z update, but have stripped the Toyota 18RG twin cam down to an almost bare block. Almost because I ran into a snag. The engine had, it seems, been decommissioned it some point due to a head gasket failure, with lots of rust present in the top of the #1 bore. The piston doesn’t want to come out because of the surface rust; worse however is that it was obviously left wet for some time, and the bore, where I’ve been cleaning it, has some fairly nasty pitting. Now, I’m going from 88.5mm standard bore to 92mm for the 2.2L pistons; this may be deep enough to remove the pitting, However, if not, the project cost will shoot up as it will need a liner fitting…
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Not a Z update, but have stripped the Toyota 18RG twin cam down to an almost bare block. Almost because I ran into a snag. The engine had, it seems, been decommissioned it some point due to a head gasket failure, with lots of rust present in the top of the #1 bore. The piston doesn’t want to come out because of the surface rust; worse however is that it was obviously left wet for some time, and the bore, where I’ve been cleaning it, has some fairly nasty pitting. Now, I’m going from 88.5mm standard bore to 92mm for the 2.2L pistons; this may be deep enough to remove the pitting, However, if not, the project cost will shoot up as it will need a liner fitting…
Surely the pitting isn't 1.75mm deep, hope not Rich?
 
Not a Z update, but have stripped the Toyota 18RG twin cam down to an almost bare block. Almost because I ran into a snag. The engine had, it seems, been decommissioned it some point due to a head gasket failure, with lots of rust present in the top of the #1 bore. The piston doesn’t want to come out because of the surface rust; worse however is that it was obviously left wet for some time, and the bore, where I’ve been cleaning it, has some fairly nasty pitting. Now, I’m going from 88.5mm standard bore to 92mm for the 2.2L pistons; this may be deep enough to remove the pitting, However, if not, the project cost will shoot up as it will need a liner fitting…

I was quoted circa £100 per liner
 

richiep

Club Member
Surely the pitting isn't 1.75mm deep, hope not Rich?
My hope too; I’ve not got all the surface rust build-up around the pitting off yet, so that distorts things a bit, but it’s pretty nasty. Hopefully it’s no deeper than 1mm-ish. It’s like a miniature Grand Canyon in rust along the cylinder wall!
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
My hope too; I’ve not got all the surface rust build-up around the pitting off yet, so that distorts things a bit, but it’s pretty nasty. Hopefully it’s no deeper than 1mm-ish. It’s like a miniature Grand Canyon in rust along the cylinder wall!
We need pictures Rich. Anyway I know you will do whatever is best.
 

richiep

Club Member
We need pictures Rich. Anyway I know you will do whatever is best.
For the moment, I’ll just proceed as planned with cleaning the block, preparing it for machining and then we’ll see what is needed once it’s had professional input. If it needs a liner then that’s what’ll have to happen. I guess it depends on what it looks like once bored to 92mm.
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Nothing to the Z but getting prepared to install the electric pump Mr Gaskin kindly sold me over a year ago! So ordered an inertia cut off switch and some other small bits.

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Next I need to make a bracket to hold this onto the car - it seems the original item had a bracket like the one I’m about to fabricate.write up with dimensions to follow.

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Here’s one from eBay - I think that’s a stock bracket


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240L31

Club Member
@AliK When I went for the electric fuel pump, I had the revolution electronics safety relay in place. It has some really nice features and primes the carbs for 2-3s after ignition on. It fit in front of the fuse box (which is quite handy, as all required wires are there, too).


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41051219tv.jpg
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
@AliK When I went for the electric fuel pump, I had the revolution electronics safety relay in place. It has some really nice features and primes the carbs for 2-3s after ignition on. It fit in front of the fuse box (which is quite handy, as all required wires are there, too).


40982353yu.jpg


41051219tv.jpg
That’s a great solution! Thanks for sharing.

Edit: LOVING the device - hating the price!!

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240L31

Club Member
I think it's cheaper if you buy directly from them. In any case I think it's well worth it, it adds quite a bit of safety and works very well.
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
@AliK Good work. Have you found a good place to mount the inertia switch?

Passenger footwell firewall as high up as I can get it. Trying to figure out if I can install it without putting holes into the car. But that’s why I’m now seriously considering @240L31 ’s recommended device. Will do a write up on my thread when I get round to it. This one may be a while as my Z time will be very curtailed again this year, so picking off small jobs where I can.
 

arcdef

Club Member
Wouldnt this controller still run the risk of continuing to run the fuel pump after an accident if the engine hadnt stopped running? In my eyes the inertia switch would be better to detect the "bump" of an accident?
 

arcdef

Club Member
I'm no expert but if it wasn't the most severe impact, as far as i know there is nothing that would switch the engine off in our cars?
 

toopy

Club Member
Wouldnt this controller still run the risk of continuing to run the fuel pump after an accident if the engine hadnt stopped running? In my eyes the inertia switch would be better to detect the "bump" of an accident?
Just what i was thinking, both are useful and certainly better than nothing, but if i only had one, which i do, it would be the inertia switch.
 
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