I'm going 1JZ

johnymd

Club Member
I'll keep my eyes open for a W58 then as I would like to fit my spare 1JZ in the series 1 road car I'm building.
 

Russell

Club Member
I'll keep my eyes open for a W58 then as I would like to fit my spare 1JZ in the series 1 road car I'm building.
I have read that they are like chocolate and been told it won’t last long. Will see how it goes. Cd009 seems to be the way to go.
 

240z

Club Member
Only broke 1 W58 so far on a track day, they don't seem too bad. I have a bmw box (GS6-53DZ) and an adapter waiting in the wings if it goes again.
 

Russell

Club Member
Early view of tonight’s creation which will be painted tomorrow so won’t look like plumbing….which it is…
The 1JZ coolant loop for the heater is in a pretty awkward position. Almost like they didn’t design it to fit into a Z.

Rather than trying to run the whole thing with rubber tube we now have a really neat solution to plumb the heater in that meanders around all the components at the back of the engine.

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Russell

Club Member
Started working on connecting the middle pedal to something.
Cleaned up the R33 servo. Unfortunately the master cylinder that came with it was past it’s best and new ones are pretty pricey. This one is a new one that is meant to be on a Nissan Primera or something like that. The dimensions were pretty much the same but outlets in different places. That obviously doesn’t matter as running new lines. 3D0781C9-5A46-4784-B2BF-4CAC2CDA9819.jpeg
 

Russell

Club Member
Pretty hard to get a good angle but here is how the heater pipes run. Much neater than trying to do it with rubber hose.
Coolant back in, fired up and run up to temperature.
Heater blowing hot for the first time in at least 30 years!
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Russell

Club Member
Had a bit of time last night. Mainly working out how to mount the fuse box and igniter as well as brake lines which are next on the list.
No pics yet as we were just mocking things up.

We did finalise the fuel system though and have some pics. It was unlikely to slide out anyway but to make sure, the swirl pot is now held in with some custom bolts and a 3D printed washer/end cap to hold it all together.
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Russell

Club Member
Won't that be a challenge to bleed?
I had another look at this, this hose is the highest part of the system which normally isn’t right but is the same as when fitted to the Soarer.
I’m no expert but it comes directly out of the water pump so may just force air out.

Either way - it works
 

Ian

Club Member
Coming on well. I assume the aim is to have this ready for the start of the summer?
 

Russell

Club Member
Fuse box and Ignitor have been held in with cable ties and chewing gum so needed a solution.
Scratched heads and remembered that we kept the rusty battery tray so dragged that out of the scrap pile and have made it look less like scrap.

The igniter mounts to the side on a removable bracket so if it becomes redundant in the future through a different coil conversion we aren’t left with a bracket we don’t need.

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Painted it white but turns out to be a slightly different shade to the rest of the “toolstation rattle can white” in the engine bay so looked weird.

It’s black now…B52F58BD-7227-4CAA-A6FA-35A597958A8A.jpeg
Will pretend it was always meant to be black to match the fusebox and igniter or something…

Basically added some studs to the bottom of the fuse box so it simply bolts onto the battery tray.

Also made the tray bolt on rather than welding it back in.

Will get some pics of it in the car when it is actually in the car.
 

johnymd

Club Member
That's where mine went on the blue. I didn't mount mine though. Just rested them on the battery tray. they never moved as there was nowhere for them to go. Fine for 10 years of track days and drag racing :)
 

Russell

Club Member
That's where mine went on the blue. I didn't mount mine though. Just rested them on the battery tray. they never moved as there was nowhere for them to go. Fine for 10 years of track days and drag racing :)
Im currently struggling with an elegant solution to the air intake. Not keen on just bolting a cone filter on. Also not got a solution to the washer bottle yet.

Starting to run out of things we havent solved which must mean its nearly ready for its first season on the road since before my youngest child was born (he is nearly 6!)
 

Russell

Club Member
Been pretty busy for the past month getting jobs ticked off. Found some more rust to sort in the rear arches which delayed us slightly.
Patched up now so getting back on track.
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Brake lines are all in now and system bled. Nice to have all three pedals operating for the first time in 7 years!
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Been messing about with the gauges and have everything working apart from coolant temp which I have a plan for.
Clock still ticks occasionally so will get that working properly at some point.
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Wiper motor and assembly back in and working as well as the new washer bottle. Need to sort pump and hoses but that’s most of that sorted.
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Russell

Club Member
Been trying to make the fans and lights work.
Should have looked into how the lights worked before I assumed and wired them in wrong.
Ditched my 3d printed relay block setup for simple separate relays for now.
Ended up struggling because the high beam switch was broken.
Stripped and cleaned and confirmed it was all working with some led’s stuffed in the end of the plugs - yellow dipped, blue high beam.
Once the wings go back on I can actually wire the real lights in.
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Another little job ticked off. The threads on the Toyota gearbox are a lot larger than the Datsun one.
Solution was to hollow the gear knob out, 3d print a new insert and glue it in.
I added a little collar on the bottom to tie the gaiter to so that doesn’t slide down.
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