What did you do to your Z this week?

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
Im planning on keeping the 72 fairlady my mate welding it up then I'll prep and paint it he panel beater too and get it turned around quicker too!!

In mean time in my shed am convertingnover my blue 71 Usa Florida car to Rhd
That will keep you busy through the winter. 😛
 

Mr Ex Jnr

Club Member
@jonbills my mate in trade panel beater he is welding it up over so her in his barn

Sand blasting shell etc and start from there

Got panels for her :) will be fun

Blue 240z am welding up in shed over winter :)
 

MCBladeRun

Club Member
I've done a lot (for me) recently on the car.

I've put a proper handbrake cable in place (not the one I wanted but one that works).

I've torqued everything on the suspension up and thrown the rear drum brake hardware on.

I've got caught on the stub axle thread - I think it's been damaged by the garage I used to remove my bearings etc. Fairlineguy has put me onto a tool to file it back into working formIMG_20221020_175125.jpg

I found that following the fsm / Haynes manual on the rear drum hardware wasn't helpful when you're starting from scratch with mostly new parts? I get it if you're replacing the drum brake shoes but, I found it useless for my needs. Saying that, it's pretty straight forward.IMG_20221020_155223.jpg

I've almost got it back on the road.
 

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Jason McIvor

Club Member
I've done a lot (for me) recently on the car.

I've put a proper handbrake cable in place (not the one I wanted but one that works).

I've torqued everything on the suspension up and thrown the rear drum brake hardware on.

I've got caught on the stub axle thread - I think it's been damaged by the garage I used to remove my bearings etc. Fairlineguy has put me onto a tool to file it back into working formView attachment 54108

I found that following the fsm / Haynes manual on the rear drum hardware wasn't helpful when you're starting from scratch with mostly new parts? I get it if you're replacing the drum brake shoes but, I found it useless for my needs. Saying that, it's pretty straight forward.View attachment 54109

I've almost got it back on the road.
Can't wait to see it :cool:
 

Robotsan

Club Member
I've done a lot (for me) recently on the car.

I've put a proper handbrake cable in place (not the one I wanted but one that works).

I've torqued everything on the suspension up and thrown the rear drum brake hardware on.

I've got caught on the stub axle thread - I think it's been damaged by the garage I used to remove my bearings etc. Fairlineguy has put me onto a tool to file it back into working formView attachment 54108

I found that following the fsm / Haynes manual on the rear drum hardware wasn't helpful when you're starting from scratch with mostly new parts? I get it if you're replacing the drum brake shoes but, I found it useless for my needs. Saying that, it's pretty straight forward.View attachment 54109

I've almost got it back on the road.

I need to do the rear drums at some point over winter. I did spot a good video on YouTube by that Australian dude which showed the rebuild pretty well (from my point of view, having never tackled it in reality!).
 

Jason McIvor

Club Member
Folks
Not sure if anyone ever needed the EFI Bible in epub format but it"s attached

I find it easier to use epub than PDF
:cool:
 

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arcdef

Club Member
Im not convinced you haven’t got a mis match .
On 240z heater boxes the loop end of each cable goes over a metal post on each arm.
The long cable goes to the fresh air/ recirc flap on the heater motor
Try and see if the left cable loop end will clip over the white plastic arm end if it does you new a metal clip like the one you have on the heater valve side to retain the outer cable
Your heater i think should be connected with the cable you have marked ? the inner cable should have a step in it to feed into the hole in the arm
The other right hand cable should have a step in the inner cable to go in the hole in the flap arm and the outer is retained by a bracket which isnt in your photo
hope some of that makes sense lol
Managed to figure most of it out, the heater cable had rusted inside the sheath and won't retract so need to find a replacement. Now just need to figure out what I'm missing to join the controls to the box!
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
I've been cracking on with my repairs - I've filled the speaker holes in the storage bins

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fixed a couple of holes in the rear deck

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replaced the rear slam panel

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replaced part of the lower rear quarter
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and now I'm just lining up the rear valance. I'm nearly at the end of the welding.

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Pondo

Club Member
I've been cracking on with my repairs - I've filled the speaker holes in the storage bins

View attachment 54131
fixed a couple of holes in the rear deck

View attachment 54132

replaced the rear slam panel

View attachment 54133
replaced part of the lower rear quarter
View attachment 54134

and now I'm just lining up the rear valance. I'm nearly at the end of the welding.

View attachment 54135
Your flying with this Jon, you’ll be driving it in spring at this rate.
 

uk66fastback

Club Member
Pleased to report that I went to see mine today … it’s been about seven miles away in my mate’s mum’s garage - she doesn’t drive so luckily there was an empty double garage going spare. It’s been there since Aug 2021 as we’ve had an extension built and new kitchen and our garage had to be used for storing a lot of stuff for both.
It wouldn’t fire lasf time I tried so brought back the starter to check - I think it’s maybe more electrical. Nice to see the old thing though …
Clutch was fine - brakes too - my mate rolls it in and out and operates the clutch every now and then.0DC63A52-06A9-4141-9526-073F78189B58.jpeg

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