Ticking Noise Investigation

SteveG

Club Member
An engine ticking sound developed from my 280ZX engine last year, which was gradually getting worse and the engine did not sound at all like a straight six should. Most advice was that the ticking noise was an exhaust leak (correct it turns out). All methods for detecting the source indicated near the thermostat housing (which ended up to be quite accurate too).

I decided this weekend to strip the manifold down. Quite a fiddly job, but following the good old Haynes manual I got there. I wanted to share some photos, and what I found:

Removing the Inlet manifold was the tedious part. But once out of the way, removing the exhaust header was relatively straightforward.
20220417_153011.jpg
On removing the exhaust manifold it seems clear where the problem is
20220418_093402.jpg20220418_093446.jpg
Options I think are : get the manifold welded and skimmed, or get a new one.

I am a bit concerned about the surface pitting around the exhaust port.
20220418_114829.jpg

Any comments or advice welcome

Steve
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Well done for investigating.

Can you source a new manifold and take the head off and get it skimmed on the inlet/exhaust face?
 
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SteveG

Club Member
Well done for investigating.

Can you source a new manifold and take the head off and get it skimmed on the inlet/exhaust face?
Thanks. I have rebuilt a L24 engine before, but I'm no expert. I could take the head off and get the side skimmed. I know it's difficult to say, but do you think (judging by the photo) it would seal?
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Thanks. I have rebuilt a L24 engine before, but I'm no expert. I could take the head off and get the side skimmed. I know it's difficult to say, but do you think (judging by the photo) it would seal?
Well, as a last resort you could try some exhaust sealing paste but be careful not to get any on the inlet ports. That's just a guess at an easy fix (bodge really).
 

Bazzateer

Club Member
Clean out the damage to clean alloy then fill with a little JB Weld and smooth it off with a razor blade so it's flush. A little wet n dry on a block to get it perfectly flat and you should be good. I repaired some corrosion to an alloy head face like this and it's still going strong 10 years later.
 

SteveG

Club Member
Clean out the damage to clean alloy then fill with a little JB Weld and smooth it off with a razor blade so it's flush. A little wet n dry on a block to get it perfectly flat and you should be good. I repaired some corrosion to an alloy head face like this and it's still going strong 10 years later.
I like that idea, thanks
 
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