Restoring a 1978 280Z

Faster Behr

Club Member
I’ve mentioned this car in a few posts now so I thought it was time to give it a thread of its own.

20211026_122409190_iOS.JPEG

I’ve got my own Z which doesn’t need a lot doing (yep, the one on the left). My son thought that was a suitable excuse to buy a ’78 280Z in need of everything (yep, the one on the right). The car in question is a recent import. It was brought as a "running and driving" car. Well, yes it would idle but it wouldn’t drive very far for sure. Not without horrid death or a fireball happening. Thankfully the body is pretty good. There’s a 6”x4” hole in the right floor (looks like a heater leak) and a couple of patches here and there. Everything rubber is perished and the interior is completely sun bleached. The paint is poor - but - the key thing is rot. There just isn’t much. Every fixing and fastener on it comes undone like a 5 year old car.

The plan is to do a light restoration (read: stop it from crashing into a wall or bursting into flames) over the winter, jazz up the interior and get it on the road for the spring so he can get some use out of it and go to some shows (read: so I can work on my own bloody cars again). Then next autumn it will come off the road for RHD conversion and paint and we can get stuck in again.

My initial focus has been on getting it to run right. All the fuel injector plugs are rotten as are the HT leads and pretty much all of the vacuum hoses and rubber boots. The fuel pipes are rotten and the petrol was rancid. Like, stinking of fisherman's friends and thinners. The engine would run nice at idle but wasn’t good for much more. The fuel supply was erratic and the pump rumbly. A compression test gave me 5 good cylinders and very little happening on number 4. With all this in mind I really wanted to get it running and up to temperature to see what else might go bad and to see if I could free things up on number 4. For now I have settled for oiling the bore up whilst it sits.

Initially I looked at the fuel pressure. Hoping to see around 30psi (per the book) but only getting 6psi in fits and starts. After draining the tank and refilling it I started running through everything; fully suspecting a dodgy fuel pump. It turns out that the fuel pick pipe and the fuel return were both blocked solid at the tank. Even 10 bar of compressed air wouldn't shift either. I was considering breaking out the nitrogen to give it a proper send off but thought better of it. Despite the tank being so badly blocked the tiny fuel inlet strainer at the pump was totally immaculate. Odd. I had no choice but to drop the tank down and take a look inside.

The condition of the sender came as quite a surprise.

20211107_163703582_iOS.JPEG

Outside the tank is minty mint and the tank straps are as new.

20211107_163642187_iOS.JPEG

Inside the tank was a black soft coating like bitumen and a lot of caked dust and rust.

20211107_164021675_iOS.JPEG

There was only one thing for it. I added a litre of Autosmart G101 caustic cleaner and swilled around, then hit it with the hot water pressure washer at 90°C for 20 minutes. It's a handy thing to have at home :rolleyes:

20211107_170713947_iOS.JPEG

The end result was quite impressive and well worth the effort.

20211107_174800122_iOS.JPEG

And now for a blow dry then some heat. McGuyver style.

20211107_173555631_iOS.JPEG

20211107_183739744_iOS.JPEG

Once it was dry I got both flow and return pickups blown through. The flow pipe actually went with a bang but I can't see any remnants of a strainer or any new debris in the tank. I'll give the tank a final swill and flush before it's repainted and refitted anyway.

I ran out of time (Strictly was on at 7:15) so next weekend I will rig up a temporary fuel supply and try running the fuel pump again. If the pump does turn out to be faulty then I will look to change it and replace the fuel pressure regulator with something like a Bosch 044 and standalone regulator. Who knows, maybe I can save the sender unit. For now it's soaking in kerosene.

That's pretty much all for now. But best for last - the highlight of the whole operation today was finding a single American cent in the tank. I couldn't quite believe it. The edges are quite worn so it has been rattling around in there for years. I'm leaving it there.

20211107_173318767_iOS.JPEG

The "finds haven't stopped there. We've also scored an Air Canada flight ticket from 1991, an emergency torch and some car wash tokens.

More next week..
 

Attachments

  • 20211107_183216227_iOS.JPEG
    20211107_183216227_iOS.JPEG
    424.3 KB · Views: 25

Faster Behr

Club Member
So I found a bit of time to get the car running today. I rigged a temporary fuel supply and thankfully the fuel pump is absolute spot on and giving us 36psi at the rail. It runs great(ish).

My little compression problem on number 4 has turned into a little more fun.

257418E9-EC3D-4EAC-B0CB-4D32C0AF6F8C.jpeg

I found this little fella having a whale of a time lounging around in the drainage. Inlet valve on number 4.

2C7428A2-20F3-4697-B70F-0FCD80169508.jpeg

There doesn’t appear to be any damage. The valve isn’t sticking. Back together it goes.
 
Last edited:

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
So I found a bit of time to get the car running today. I rigged a temporary fuel supply and thankfully the fuel pump is absolute spot on and giving us 36psi at the rail. It runs great(ish).

My little compression problem on number 4 has turned into a little more fun.

View attachment 47571

I found this little fella having a whale of a time lounging around in the drainage. Inlet valve on number 4.

View attachment 47572

There doesn’t appear to be any damage. The valve isn’t sticking. Back together it goes.
Nice easy fix.
 

Faster Behr

Club Member
I’ve been doing some reading around and there appears to be experience of this happening before; particularly there’s mention of this happening with bad or stale fuel/gasoline. One account occurred at 7,000rpm.

The bad fuel theory makes good sense - fascinating what bad fuel can do to gum up components. We’re so lucky that the lash cap sat in the drainage and the rocker didn’t catch up on the adjacent rocker. It looks like this engine just used one of its nine lives. I’ve got (hot) compression numbers between 180-195psi across all cylinders now. The bottom end is quiet. This all makes me happy. I really didn’t want to start an engine rebuild or get into an engine swap right now.

I’ve ordered an injection loom plug repair kit to replace all of the sensor and injector plugs. I’ve got a paper original copy of the factory injection book too. I’m going to remove the injection loom completely and repair/test it on the bench. I have various sizes of conduit and different cloth tapes left over from an engine swap so I should be able to remake it so it looks close to original.

I know the inlet manifold is filthy so I’m going to strip it down and steam clean it. Then vapour blast the outside. I’ll take the opportunity to test all injection components.

I’m pondering what to do with the injectors. Is there a generic Bosch injector replacement - there appears to be conflicting advice on this. Or should I get them cleaned and serviced? Help or advice on this would be appreciated.
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Well done for getting it running. Perhaps the mis-placed rocker may have been the reason the car was laid up and then sold?

In hindsight a check under the cam-cover may have been a good idea before you tried to start it. We are all human and the temptation to get it to run is high on the list but you were lucky. I wonder if it was driven around for a while on 5 cylinders?
 

Faster Behr

Club Member
Thanks for your responses. all appreciated.

I have comsidered going wih a standalone system (I have Canems in my car) but I just really want to get it up and running and keep things simple for the time being. If my son wants to do other stuff later then he can have fun researching and doing that.

I think I’m going to test the injectors and hopefully they’ll be good enough to go back in with new seals.

Quick update -

I had the rad and water pump out today and have degreased and steam cleaned the engine and bay thoroughly. The water pump was blocked with salts and corrosion as I expected, as was the thermostat housing. I took the thermostat out and that was as bad too. I have washed all this out with the steam cleaner and will order a new water pump along with the ever growing list.

It looks like there's an oil leak between the head and the block between 3 and 4, so I'm going to whip the head off and take a looksee. All the adjacent head bolts are over 60lb/ft so there’s no easy fix happening. I’ll pop the core plugs and flush the block out the best I can beforehand I think.

Safety first - “bunded fuel cell” in place whilst the tank is off being painted :EXTRAeek:

041DEE56-23BE-4BDB-A9D0-9A766C77B944.jpeg

Post clean victory lap:

403D2FBB-3E6A-4D7D-89F5-9D015BE291E3.jpeg

Blocked water pump housing. There was some room for water to let-by, but not ideal

D51924CC-9BA8-4B62-98F1-A0DE7E7EF1C0.jpeg

This was anticipated!

C0D8AD52-138E-48BA-85BC-5BA1FECB012C.jpeg

And here is where the leak is

36741133-23F1-44D8-A05E-ED166EDB34DE.jpeg

All good fun EXTRA:)
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
Thats where the oil supply to the head comes through. Probably just bad gasket.
 

SeanDezart

Well-Known Forum User
You can trust Rock Auto. Great project - I assume he's 'helping' ?

Not 'my' style but I love what you've done with the 260 :)
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
I'd go Felpro from Rockauto, their gaskets are generally good. Although ITM is probably fine if you've already ordered.
 

Makesy

Club Member
I’m pondering what to do with the injectors. Is there a generic Bosch injector replacement - there appears to be conflicting advice on this. Or should I get them cleaned and serviced? Help or advice on this would be appreciated.

I started trying to replace the rotten hoses on mine - a task which was both horrible (pain in the ass), and unsuccessful (they leaked).

By the time I'd costed up obtaining refurbished ones from the US (not cheap) it wasn't much more expensive to move to a new fuel rail to accomodate modern style o ring injectors (mine are from a Scirocco). It cleaned up the engine bay nicely too. Though it did need an aftermarket fpr, and I moved to a different ECU which may be different to what you're after
 

Faster Behr

Club Member
Ok so it’s been a little while and we’re well overdue an update.

The work has gone on pretty well. The usual one step forward and two steps back but we are making progress.

We whipped the head off and found the gasket had failed around the oil gallery causing the aforementioned weep down the block. Apart from that it was all pretty good. There was the tiniest of nicks in the top of number 4 piston where the inlet valve had made contact. We stripped and checked all the valves and cleaned and reground them. The seals were replaced with Felpro’ sourced from Rock Auto - along with almost all the other bits.

D3E3FFD4-AF55-469A-930F-7DEE80F6237D.jpeg 8FF1DD67-28C0-4DB5-B519-BD5FB7C04A32.jpeg 8C7CA13A-4BC3-4207-B341-24C37FE4499E.jpeg

The pistons are marked 0.75 oversize and there is no bore wear so it’s had a rebuild in the (recent?) past.

Once back together we refitted and torqued the head and fitted a new timing chain kit kit and water pump. The inlet manifold was stripped and vapor blasted along with the thermostat housings and chain cover.

Everything that was previously plated and passivated got taken away and replated including every nut and bolt. The new passivation isn’t as yellow as the original stuff due to the new chemistry sans the nasty stuff.

F0026367-B3D5-4AB1-8B97-AA73F0F4FF83.jpeg

I did have everything neatly bagged up but the platers’ threw it all in together. I’m shite at puzzles so you can imagine my glee when I picked it all up :rolleyes:

I’ve matched every single hose under the bonnet with silicone replacements. All will be fitted with new proper clips. I’ve even replaced all the AC system vacuum hoses as I plan to reinstate the AC eventually. I sourced and fitted a new remanufactured starter and alternator to save future disappointments.

The injectors were stripped, cleaned and had new seals and Gates hoses fitted (I filled the FSM article for removal). I even stripped and repainted the yellow collets which sit at the seat of the injector hoses.

I took time to strip and paint the block nicely too.

Anyway - more photos:

9C4BA55C-78D4-43D0-8904-1A559580EF93.jpeg

Here’s where we are at so far.

0A9B738B-4FA2-4FA6-8AB5-603360F4C033.jpeg 9B26706F-456E-456A-9FD6-8BC2313EAE45.jpeg

We went on a shopping trip today and picked up some bumpers from a very nice forum member. Once I’ve got everything under the bonnet sorted then we’ll move onto these along with the rest of the work to the running gear and then, the body.

There’s a lot I’ve skipped. I’ll try to update more frequently from now on :banghead:
 
Top