Leaking heater matrix

Farmer42

Club Member
I've a left hand drive, so just the passenger seat I take it?

Cool, I thought there was something that came off the engine block. 3/8" pipe is right?

Yes, just the passenger seat on a LHD. I think the valve is on the same side whether LHD or RHD. I think 3/8 pipe is the right size. You just need to create the loop to bypass the heater to stop all the water shooting out the engine block. You can tie the heater pipes back out the way for the meantime - its better to leave those attached as any water left in the matrix will drain into the engine bay instead of over your carpet inside.
 

Geoff-R

Club Member
Yes, fairly sure the valve is the same side on a LHD and a RHD, you can see from the engine side of the bulkhead anyway as the pipes go straight to it.
 

MCBladeRun

Club Member
I've managed to isolate the pipework with 5/8" pipe for now, and I've got the part coming from Japan on Monday. Pretty good service from FedEx.

Thanks again guys
 

MCBladeRun

Club Member
Just had this from FedEx

So the part was £30.39
FedEx delivery was £29.00

The other duties are £72.13

I'm hoping it's an error..

Edit: the error was mine, this is for another package :rolleyes:
 

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Russell

Club Member
Hijacking this thread slightly but is it possible to get the small pipes that link all this into the joiner in the bulkhead on the 260z on this site? I mainly need the one with tight turns as cant use generic pipes for it and everywhere I look is excruciatingly expensive for a small pipe.
 

Geoff-R

Club Member
Hijacking this thread slightly but is it possible to get the small pipes that link all this into the joiner in the bulkhead on the 260z on this site? I mainly need the one with tight turns as cant use generic pipes for it and everywhere I look is excruciatingly expensive for a small pipe.

Interested in this as well as mine are shot. I just wonder if it's possible to buy some pipes with generic bends in them and cut them down? By the one with tight turns do you mean this one?
 

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Mark N

Club Member
Interested in this as well as mine are shot. I just wonder if it's possible to buy some pipes with generic bends in them and cut them down? By the one with tight turns do you mean this one?

I used a couple of silicone hoses with pre-formed bends along with a hose coupler/joiner to replace the OEM hose on my gold 280Z.
The bend radius was too tight for straight hose (normal or metal reinforced)
I can't remember the sizes off the top of my head though.
 

Geoff-R

Club Member
@Mark N agreed that is probably the best and simplest route to go down. As the pipes are not visible a few joins won't be the end of the world, either way, I'd rather a few new tight joins than 40+ year old hose which is ready to give up.
 

nospark

Well-Known Forum User
It is a good idea for all owners to slip a piece of cardboard between the heater and the trans tunnel. It's then easy once in a while to slide it out to check for leaks. It will pick the smallest of leaks

I have detected the slightest of leaks from the heater core. I plan to remove the heater pipes in the engine bay and delete the heater unit/core.

This is my pennuth worth. Do NOT connect the cylinder head to heater core pipe (its the input to the heater) with the heater return output pipe leading to the front of the engine (in proximity to the water pump). When your heater is set to off, hot water does not circulate through the heater core. When you switch it on then water circulates back to the front of the engine. This hot water has been cooled by the heater core, particularly if the heater blower was also going full gas. Either way, very hot water is not being recirculated back the front of the engine.

If you connect these pipes then hot cylinder head water is constantly being fed back to the water pump and the engine without being cooled by the radiator.
I will be plugging the pipe outlet at the cylinder head and at the t junction at the front of the engine. I think this is the best way forward but you'll need to make up your own mind
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
...............

This is my pennuth worth. Do NOT connect the cylinder head to heater core pipe (its the input to the heater) with the heater return output pipe leading to the front of the engine (in proximity to the water pump). When your heater is set to off, hot water does not circulate through the heater core. When you switch it on then water circulates back to the front of the engine. This hot water has been cooled by the heater core, particularly if the heater blower was also going full gas. Either way, very hot water is not being recirculated back the front of the engine.

If you connect these pipes then hot cylinder head water is constantly being fed back to the water pump and the engine without being cooled by the radiator.
I will be plugging the pipe outlet at the cylinder head and at the t junction at the front of the engine. I think this is the best way forward but you'll need to make up your own mind

That's a good point. I did buy a car with the heater by-passed like that until I replaced the matrix.
 
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