fuel filters for 240z ?

Graham Palmer

Club Member
Hi, think I probably should change the filter....currently its a WIX 8144...but cannot find them anywhere....what's the consensus on best solution today ?...thanks
 

TimFZ

Club Member
On my 1975 Fairlady z L20 engine I now have a setup with 3 filters and swapping the cheap one regularly as my tank is due a flush.

One inline, straight after the tank (with a ball valve tap between to allow isolation for on the road swaps if required), a clear paper filter before the pump which gets swapped when crud builds up. Then a second paper filter before carbs.

Once tank is flushed, will probably go back to two. A screening filter pre pump and a post fine one.
 

Bazzateer

Club Member
On my 1975 Fairlady z L20 engine I now have a setup with 3 filters and swapping the cheap one regularly as my tank is due a flush.

One inline, straight after the tank (with a ball valve tap between to allow isolation for on the road swaps if required), a clear paper filter before the pump which gets swapped when crud builds up. Then a second paper filter before carbs.

Once tank is flushed, will probably go back to two. A screening filter pre pump and a post fine one.
That's a sensible set-up. I'd be tempted to keep all three after the tank is sorted, sort of belt, braces and a wedgie just to be extra sure!.
 

TimFZ

Club Member
I forgot the facet electric pump has a filter too. Usually a screen not a paper element unless an older one. Only £5.36 plus vat from Merlin Motorsports. Will swap it out.
 
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240L31

Club Member
I don't get what several similar in-line filters should do. If debris passes the first filter, it will also pass the second (assuming it is the same mesh size). Don't forget that each filter induces a significant pressure drop.
In my opinion, a pre pump filter (150µ mesh) and regular paper filter after pump is perfectly fine.
 

TimFZ

Club Member
Big crap needs to be caught before the pump. Finer crap after so it doesn't get to carbs.

But, as so much is coming from tank, its good to keep collecting and changing a cheap filter regularly. I'm happy to do this for now until I'm sure the tank is flushed properly.

With regard to pressure drop, a clean filter should not have more pressure drop than a 6 to 8mm fuel line and can collect big stuff with minimal effect. Provided it doesn't become clogged of course then pressure drop exponentially increases and flow stops.

The idea is to clear the tank as best is possible, flush and drain, put cleaner through lines and blow through, new flexi sections. Then and only then will I go back to minimal filtration!
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
But still, two inline filters with the same mesh size have no advantage over a single one :conf2:

The only advantage I can see is stopping your elec pump or hard lines filling with crud from the tank before it gets to the engine bay filter (before the mech pump).
 

240L31

Club Member
Yes sure you need a filter pre pump. My point is that two filters after the pump are pretty much useless ;)
Pressure drop before the pump is much more critical compared to after pump. That is why pre pump filters are usually coarse grid, whereas pre carb filters are much finer (paper style):)
 

TimFZ

Club Member
Yes sure you need a filter pre pump. My point is that two filters after the pump are pretty much useless ;)
Pressure drop before the pump is much more critical compared to after pump. That is why pre pump filters are usually coarse grid, whereas pre carb filters are much finer (paper style):)

Yes, coarse before, say 70 plus microns, first after 30 microns, second 5 microns possibly (but maybe not that fine if you run carbs which will be more tolerant than injection.).

Always start coarse and then move to finer. It makes the finer one's last longer too!
 
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