Here we go again Derricks 260z restoration

candy red

Club Member
Ok I’m going to ask the question, why does it curve up towards the front?

Hi Mike

The answer to your question is iI don't know:conf2: ,so tonight I had to go out and check it before cutting it up again :EXTRAeek:
at first I thought it was an optical illusion from the angle the photo was taken :unsure:

So on checking you are right it does curse up slightly :( By 3mm just at the end which will be outside the floor area so no real concern EXTRA:)

Good spot though:thumbs: to be honest it may have curled slightly due to heat distortion ,or most likely human error on my part as having to bent the end piece a with block of wood and a vice and hammer and dolly :smash: wasn't the easiest thin being 1.5 mm thick :rofl:

Thanks for your comment :thumbs:

Heres some pics i took to check the curve using some 25mm box section and a piece of angle iron ;)

sWzhzao.jpg

As you can see using the straight edges the curl is minimal 3mm most people can't see that without glasses :EXTRAlol:

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;)
 

MaximG

Well-Known Forum User
Derrick I do wonder if it was more an optical illusion as I’m not sure I could pick out 3mm from a picture either. Glad it won’t make any difference anyway :)
 

Ian

Club Member
Still lots to do, but you are doing a great job, keep it up, I enjoy watching this progress.
 

candy red

Club Member
Still lots to do, but you are doing a great job, keep it up, I enjoy watching this progress.

Thanks Ian won't be as good as yours but will do my best to get it as near post free a possible without taking every seam apart :EXTRAeek::thumbs:
 

Ian

Club Member
Thanks Ian won't be as good as yours but will do my best to get it as near post free a possible without taking every seam apart :EXTRAeek::thumbs:
It might not be, but you did it all yourself with way less equipment, and will still end up with a great car that you brought back to life by yourself, be proud of this achievement. My next future project will be done all my myself in my garage, but theres no way I will be able to tackle repairs to the level you are doing. I'll have to stick to something with minimal rust repairs needed.
 

candy red

Club Member
So on Sunday I decided to tackle the area around the passengers side A post :unsure:
first of all i decided to remove another bodged repair :EXTRAeek:


tItL8f0.jpg


Well that didn't take to much getting off only tacked on in about 4 places WHY would anyone do this waste of time completely and so unsafe repair :conf2::EXTRAmad:
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tItL8f0.jpg


Next I removed the lower part of the corroded inside body skin :)

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Had a panel made with the pressing already in it but had to adapt it to fill whole area that needed replacing making the vertical join so it sits against the A-post and plug weld the whole panel through onto the Apost :)

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Trial fit before taking it of and welding it together to make 1 solid piece.
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Now tacked together EXTRA:D
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Nice penetration on reverse side
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Another trail fit before taking panel off and stitch welding the panel to gather properly EXTRA:D
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View from outside car, I have cut out the underside of the air tube so I could get the top of the repair panel lapping over the existing skin that is solid this laps nicely as I've joggled the top edge :smoke:

pB4tPtu.jpg


Still some work to go before getting the sills back on :smash::banghead::leaving:
 

RedDragon240

New Forum User
Cracking thread so far Derrick, really impressive the amount of work that’s going into this restoration.

Out of curiosity, with the sills, floor pans and part of the A frame cut out, what do you do to keep the shape/brace the rest of the shell?

Keep up the good work!
 

candy red

Club Member
Cracking thread so far Derrick, really impressive the amount of work that’s going into this restoration.

Out of curiosity, with the sills, floor pans and part of the A frame cut out, what do you do to keep the shape/brace the rest of the shell?

Keep up the good work!
Thanks for your comments :)

Ive got some temporary bracing in place when not working on the car but to be honest don't really think it needs to be there ,as the whole of the car is supported in 6 places underneath including the tunnel the B post can't move as its still connected to the arch and an arch is as strong as anything ,as for the A-post why would that move its connected to the air-tube and the bulkhead no weight on it apart from the roof so no stressing here ;)
 

candy red

Club Member
So christmas is over hope you all had a good one ,

Back on the Datsun today decided to tackle the lower part of the rear wheel arch as theres a hole and sure theres rust lurking behind it :banghead:

zsB8K8l.jpg


Just as i thought RUST :EXTRAeek::smash::(

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So I've carried on cutting :unsure:

B25OhO9.jpg


Made this panel as a repair section :smash:

Tg6U88W.jpg


Now need to make small part for bottom of inner arch
 

toopy

Club Member
Great work,

Im curious as to how people deal with the previously rusted bits behind new panels/repair patches, obviously they are cleaned up first as much as possible, but they can only be primed with something weldable.
So what happens after repairs are completed, as obviously that original bit will have surface rust/pitting where mechanical clean up wasn't possible, rust treatment into the gap, seam seal, epoxy primed, soak with wax, all four??
 

candy red

Club Member
A post repair panel now epoxy primed except for where being welded when inner sill goes on that will be zinc primed before welding :)
W1P5ZTo.jpg


next made this little piece to go between inner and out sill at B post end.
thQrM7f.jpg


Now welded on along with the small lower piece on the inner arch
SxGH7St.jpg

Also welded in the inner arch repair panel :)
hN4TKeE.jpg

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Now all ground down
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All epoxy primed no filler needed yet maybe a slight skim before being painted
PEXKH9R.jpg

DwuUuCn.jpg


Also made this repair panel for the upper floor behind passenger seat need to get inner sill on before I can weld it in :willynilly:

ZxgGBv5.jpg


Back so I hope :EXTRAlol:;):leaving:
 
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