240z (L28) Electric fuel pump install - what parts?

Graeme - CZ

Club Member
Hi all,

As I near the finish line of my build, I think it’s time to install an electric fuel pump. From what I have read so far, I should go for a Facet pump and filter king regulator. The question is, what spec?

Facet electric pump; either 4-4.25psi or 6-7.25psi - which one?

Filter King pressure regulator - what spec should this be?

Lastly, do I need any other parts of this job?

Thanks all, Graeme
 

Graeme - CZ

Club Member
I should add, I’ve got a standard 2x SU carb setup. I also read on another thread about full shut off in the event of an accident, so not sure if there is anything I can add to the system from a safety perspective?
 
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240L31

Club Member
Graeme, I'm in the same boat, researching parts for an electrical fuel pump conversion (3.1L on SUs). Did you choose your parts?
I'm still running my 50 years old (I guess original) mechanical fuel pump and I'm afraid it is only a matter of time until it fails.
 

Graeme - CZ

Club Member
Hello,

I never quite got there in the end. A Facet Red Top fuel pump and a Malpassi Pressure regulator. Just needed to work out precise specs. Also, you'd want to consider a fuel shut off in case of an accident.

(you could always just replace your mechanical one with shiny new one)

If you do decide to go the electric route, it would be good if you could post the specs on here.

Cheers, Graeme
 

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zbloke

Club Member
When I converted my 240Z to electric fuel pump I used a Facet Red Top Pump and Malpassi Filter King FPRV8 with 8mm screw in hose tails - on SU's I ran about 2.5 psi and when I switched to triples I upped this to 3.5 psi

Wiring, I didn't want to use the OEM fuel pump wires already in the harness, I had another use for them lined up, so elected to do the following:- wire from battery positive to terminal 30 of a fused relay, wire from terminal 87 to the pump, wire from ignition coil SW/+12v side to terminal 86 of the relay and terminal 85 of the relay to ground, doing this puts the relay under ignition key control

I used a ground point near the battery on the bulkhead, in fact I think a wire does go from battery negative to this point, for the relay ground and also ran a wire back from the pump to use the same ground, there is nothing to stop you grounding the pump at the rear but I wanted my relay and pump grounds at one point

I haven't got any kind of fuel cut off system but it'd be relatively easy to introduce an inertia switch or some sort of oil pressure activated switch into the relay ground wire if you so desired

I should stress this is not a definitive guide, but just how I did mine, a rummage about on the interweb will give you multiple other ways of achieving the same - pick the one that suits you the best and if you're not comfortable or confident in your wiring ability then seek professional help with the install
 

Woody928

Events Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Ironic timing reading this, I'm also in the same boat and have just dropped my fuel tank to give it a refurb, replace my fuel lines and move onto an electric fuel pump setup. I've been told it would be preferable with my newly anticipated engine/carb setup as I will want to run 4.5-5 psi of pressure.

I've just picked up a Facet Posi-Flow fuel pump and Malpassi fuel pressure regulator as linked below:

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/facet-posi-flow-electric-fuel-pump-kit-4-6-psi-60106-fep06sv

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/...lator-large-glass-85mm-with-8mm-unions-fpr006

I've been told that the Posi Flow fuel pumps are the latest gen and quieter at about 65db, I also liked the fact that the pump was housed in a plastic casing giving it a little more insulation, albeit I still plan to rubber mount it. I'm just working out the in's and outs of how I'm going to mount it now.

Happy to update you as to how it all goes.
 

240L31

Club Member
In my opinion the most difficult task is to determine the actual needed flow rate instead of relying on marketing info (..supports up to XX bhp). So what my approach looks like currently:

1. I'm running the stock mechanical fuel pump. According to the FSM, it is rated at 0,24-0,29 bar ( 3,41-4,27 PSI), 1600 cc/min @ 1000 rpm ( 96 l/h FREE FLOWING)
2. I never had any issues with fuel delivery, hence the above flow rate/pressure seems to be fine for my stroker engine. Assuming the stock pump doesn't deliver much more at higher engine speeds.. (?)

I would prefer a low pressure fuel pump with no external regulator needed. Right now I am looking at a HÜCO 133000 pump, made in Germany and part of the HITACHI group. There's a full datasheet available, link below. Apparently a high quality pump and very quiet (from what I've read).

They provide proper data (free flow rate and flow rate depending on pressure), most other manufacturers only provide the free flowing rate for marketing purposes. The Hüco is rated 125 l/h free flowing, 45 l/min @ 0,25 bar. It weights 850g so I expect some decent quality here. Right now I think I'll get this one (also very reasonable priced at around 50-80€). I like that it can be mounted similar to the OE electrical pump with inlet and outlet at the top.

The easiest way for some added safety is a generic Volkswagen fuel pump relay 321-906-059C (around 15-35€). I don't know why it isn't being used more outside of the VW crowd but it seems to be super straight forward: As soon as the relay gets ignition power, it provides power to the fuel pump for 3s (max). It then stops, only if it senses a trigger pulse from the coil negative it continues to run. Some of these even have a slot for a regular automotive fuse.

I'm not sure where to get the negative coil side close to the fuse box, though. Is it the same as the negative side of the current sensing tach?


Fuel pump datasheet: https://www.ez-catalog.nl/Asset/06f...c0/Original/133000-Huco-productblad-DE-EN.pdf
Relay: https://vwparts.aircooled.net/Electric-Fuel-Pump-Relay-321-906-059C-p/321-906-059c.htm
 
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toopy

Club Member
The easiest way for some added safety is a generic Volkswagen fuel pump relay 321-906-059C (around 15-35€). I don't know why it isn't being used more outside of the VW crowd but it seems to be super straight forward: As soon as the relay gets ignition power, it provides power to the fuel pump for 3s (max). It then stops, only if it senses a trigger pulse from the coil negative it continues to run. Some of these even have a slot for a regular automotive fuse.

I can appreciate the safety aspect, but at the same time a major accident could leave the engine running and therefore the pump, where as a cut off switch will stop the pump after impact even with the engine still running, what if the car is on its side or upside down, perhaps have both?
Also a maximum 3 seconds doesnt seem enough to properly prime the fuel lines and the float chambers for a cold start if the car is used irregularly, as most are, i suppose you could turn the ignition on and off a couple of times.
 

240L31

Club Member
There are also relays with adjustable priming duration. 3s would mean around 100ml of fuel, should be enough to fill up both fuel bowls.

Sure, two safety relays are always better than one but I can't see that's really needed. My stock mechanical fuel pump would continue running in your scenario, too.
 
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toopy

Club Member
Sure, two safety relays are always better than one but I can't see that's really needed.

True, but if you can only have one, wouldn't it be better to have the one that will actually stop the pump as intended

My stock mechanical fuel pump would continue running in your scenario, too.

Also true, but if your going to the trouble of fitting an electric pump and relay, isn't it prudent to also improve safety to a more modern standard at the same time, where possible. The fact you have sourced a non standard relay for apparent safety reasons, implies that that is exactly your intention.


EXTRA;) By the way, my intention isn't to have a dig at what you are planning, just voicing pro's and con's for the sake of learning and information. I think the relay you propose is a good idea, just IMHO the cut off switch is better suited as a stand alone safety device, i have one fitted to mine. But i will certainly also consider fitting the relay in the future as an extra precaution, now i know such a thing exists. :):driving:
 
In my opinion the most difficult task is to determine the actual needed flow rate instead of relying on marketing info (..supports up to XX bhp). So what my approach looks like currently:

1. I'm running the stock mechanical fuel pump. According to the FSM, it is rated at 0,24-0,29 bar ( 3,41-4,27 PSI), 1600 cc/min @ 1000 rpm ( 96 l/h FREE FLOWING)
2. I never had any issues with fuel delivery, hence the above flow rate/pressure seems to be fine for my stroker engine. Assuming the stock pump doesn't deliver much more at higher engine speeds.. (?)

I would prefer a low pressure fuel pump with no external regulator needed. Right now I am looking at a HÜCO 133000 pump, made in Germany and part of the HITACHI group. There's a full datasheet available, link below. Apparently a high quality pump and very quiet (from what I've read).

They provide proper data (free flow rate and flow rate depending on pressure), most other manufacturers only provide the free flowing rate for marketing purposes. The Hüco is rated 125 l/h free flowing, 45 l/min @ 0,25 bar. It weights 850g so I expect some decent quality here. Right now I think I'll get this one (also very reasonable priced at around 50-80€). I like that it can be mounted similar to the OE electrical pump with inlet and outlet at the top.

The easiest way for some added safety is a generic Volkswagen fuel pump relay 321-906-059C (around 15-35€). I don't know why it isn't being used more outside of the VW crowd but it seems to be super straight forward: As soon as the relay gets ignition power, it provides power to the fuel pump for 3s (max). It then stops, only if it senses a trigger pulse from the coil negative it continues to run. Some of these even have a slot for a regular automotive fuse.

I'm not sure where to get the negative coil side close to the fuse box, though. Is it the same as the negative side of the current sensing tach?


Fuel pump datasheet: https://www.ez-catalog.nl/Asset/06f...c0/Original/133000-Huco-productblad-DE-EN.pdf
Relay: https://vwparts.aircooled.net/Electric-Fuel-Pump-Relay-321-906-059C-p/321-906-059c.htm

That relay makes sense.
 

240L31

Club Member
We are talking about two different topics I think. The VW relay ensures priming (before cranking) and also stops the fuel pump with just ignition on, so it never overheats. Additionally, it acts as "regular" relay which would be needed anyways in order to supply power to the pump.

I think I won't fit an inertia switch as it is another part which could get me stranded in case of a failure..
 

uk66fastback

Club Member
The DME relay on the 944 (the one that sometimes 'goes' and leaves you stranded), switches off the fuel pump if it detects an engine speed of less than 200rpm or something.
 
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