What did you do to your Z this week?

SteveK

Forum User
@JB
Not quite apples and apples comparing a race pinto with a 6 cylinder
23 thou can get eaten up with crank flex, thermal expansion, bearing squish, pin float, rod stretch, piston stretch, all of which happen at high RPMs not just high temps.

@Seikoking, nice work......trumpets a little long but looks good


@all afternoon all

Regards
SteveK (SKiddell)
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
@JB
Not quite apples and apples comparing a race pinto with a 6 cylinder
23 thou can get eaten up with crank flex, thermal expansion, bearing squish, pin float, rod stretch, piston stretch, all of which happen at high RPMs not just high temps.

@Seikoking, nice work......trumpets a little long but looks good


@all afternoon all

Regards
SteveK (SKiddell)

Hi Steve, good to hear from you, what are you up to these days?
 

Mr.G

Club Member
@JB
Not quite apples and apples comparing a race pinto with a 6 cylinder
23 thou can get eaten up with crank flex, thermal expansion, bearing squish, pin float, rod stretch, piston stretch, all of which happen at high RPMs not just high temps.
Hello Steve, nice to see you posting.

I have been reading up on clearances recently and find this topic quite interesting. From what i understand you need to clay the pistons, put the head back on with the gasket you intend to use and check whether retarding or advancing the cam pulley by a few degrees causes any interference but before that you need to set up the valve lash correctly as this plays a big factor in the relationship between valve and pistons, even the wipe pattern you set on the rocker can cause an increase in lift, great when you have the clearance for it.
 

atomman

Club Member
I brought some of these new alloy 300zx calipers from Rock Auto , turns out they are not the same as R32 GTR calipers like everyone thinks on the internet , will tweak the bracket design so they bolt up , will then have a bolt up solution that's a lot lighter than the heavy Hilux ones
IMG_20201110_091846_6.jpg


will update the brake upgrade thread with some more info
 
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jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
I brought some of these new alloy Z31 calipers from Rock Auto , turns out they are not the same as R32 GTR calipers like everyone thinks on the internet , will tweak the bracket design so they bolt up , will then have a bolt up solution that's a lot lighter than the heavy Hilux ones .View attachment 42051

will update the brake upgrade thread with some more info
I thought Z32 calipers were the same as R32 - don't think I've read about Z31 ones at all!
 

Mark N

Club Member
I brought some of these new alloy 300zx calipers from Rock Auto , turns out they are not the same as R32 GTR calipers like everyone thinks on the internet , will tweak the bracket design so they bolt up , will then have a bolt up solution that's a lot lighter than the heavy Hilux ones
View attachment 42057


will update the brake upgrade thread with some more info

They look like the aluminium Z32 versions which came in two different sizes, one is for a 26mm disk (NA) and the other for a 30mm disk (TT).
I think the R32 GTR calipers are the same as the late z32 30mm Sumitomo steel ones.
 

atomman

Club Member
They look like the aluminum Z32 versions which came in two different sizes, one is for a 26mm disk (NA) and the other for a 30mm disk (TT).
I think the R32 GTR calipers are the same as the late z32 30mm Sumitomo steel ones.

Got any more info or links please ?

I thought that both 26mm & 30mm discs were 280mm in diameter though ? so mounting points would be the same and the late Z32 is the same size to, I maybe wrong though
 

Mark N

Club Member
Got any more info or links please ?

I thought that both 26mm & 30mm discs were 280mm in diameter though ? so mounting points would be the same and the late Z32 is the same size to, I maybe wrong though

That is correct, all the discs were 280mm, just different thicknesses.
Did you get the 26mm or 30mm calipers?
 

atomman

Club Member
That is correct, all the discs were 280mm, just different thicknesses.
Did you get the 26mm or 30mm calipers?

kool , thought they where , cant imagine they engineers moved the mounting lugs on the strut/calipers

I got the 30mm ones
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
Hello Steve, nice to see you posting.

I have been reading up on clearances recently and find this topic quite interesting. From what i understand you need to clay the pistons, put the head back on with the gasket you intend to use and check whether retarding or advancing the cam pulley by a few degrees causes any interference but before that you need to set up the valve lash correctly as this plays a big factor in the relationship between valve and pistons, even the wipe pattern you set on the rocker can cause an increase in lift, great when you have the clearance for it.
2 related but different issues. The posts are primarily about piston to head and squish. Ur post is concerned with valve to piston which isn’t an issue at TDC but when ur valves are fully open, normally a few degrees before TDC is critical as the piston approaches a fully open valve. 0.080” or 2mm seems to be the usually accepted gap, but plenty of people seem to run less. Valve float at high rpm can eat into the 2mm (and ur piston!)
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
I suspect that most of the things that eat up piston to head clearance are also the things that eat up piston to valve clearance, given that, I suspect I'd be able to run 0.58mm valve to piston clearance. But.. there's no advantage to less clearance to the valve, so no motivation to find out :) I think my piston to exhaust valve clearance was just a tad under 2mm when I measured it, but I think my cam timing is more retarded now, so maybe I'll measure it again.
 

Mr.G

Club Member
2 related but different issues. The posts are primarily about piston to head and squish. Ur post is concerned with valve to piston which isn’t an issue at TDC but when ur valves are fully open, normally a few degrees before TDC is critical as the piston approaches a fully open valve. 0.080” or 2mm seems to be the usually accepted gap, but plenty of people seem to run less. Valve float at high rpm can eat into the 2mm (and ur piston!)
I will be checking both at the same time hence why i relate them together. Set my squish to the desired height and then check the valves don't touch.
 

Jay.

Club Member
Finally got round to fixing my door mechanism - it wasn't opening from the inside... Turns out one of the bolts had come loose and fallen inside the door frame. Whilst in there I fitted new felt rubber to stop the glass vibrating... Also put a bunch of Dynamat inside the door to try and reduce the 'drum' effect. Door shuts significantly nicer now and I can let myself out without rolling down the window!
 

Mr Ex Jnr

Club Member
Well been a day of Z again hahaha

I LOVE it

Found a guy other month with some Gems he had some Z bits at really good price

Bought some more bits today off him

Brand New Nissan Tailgate :) still has part number on and that :)
Also went View a 240z very local :) 10mins away with Intention of buying it to restore up
 

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LiamR

Club Member
So today my OEM RHD scuttle panel turned up from Japan.

It got to the UK and then was forwarded to me via TNT.

Pi**ed off is an understatement!!!

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