Alternators, is 60A worth the upgrade?

istoo

Well-Known Forum User
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That will be this thing then.

As I understand it. Either standard alternator and external regulator from Rock Auto

OR

Upgrade 280sx seems to fit with some small tweaks found this thread 240z alternator upgrade (instructions w/ pictures)
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...lassiczcars.com/&share_type=t&link_source=app

which is probably what Zstore are selling.
And also why Z store state 70-72 on their website.
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I am 99.9% mine has a mechanical fuel pump. I know because it drained during extended storage this year and needed fuel in carbs to start.

Suspect I am overthinking this


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MCBladeRun

Club Member
Well, if you confirm mechanical fuel pump, then you don't need to worry about rewiring around the oem electric fuel pump?

The fact remains, which do you go for? I would say, if you are adding additional electronic parts to the car, then you should consider an upgrade to something with a larger output.

For example, I plan on adding power steering and that can sap a lot of power. I am upgrading to an 80amp alternator.

If you're keeping it standard, and will not be adding things, then stick with the rockauto route.

Martin
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Mmm need to understand that electric fuel pump issue? I'll investigate the wiring diag.

Both my cars have electric pumps and upgraded (internal reg) alternators without a problem.
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Just a word of warning.

When adding aftermarket equipment e.g. electric power steering make sure that the circuit you are connecting to can take the extra current.

On 240s a lot of the wire gauge is very small.
 

MCBladeRun

Club Member
Mmm need to understand that electric fuel pump issue? I'll investigate the wiring diag.

Both my cars have electric pumps and upgraded (internal reg) alternators without a problem.
Its possibly just a small number of vehicles that can suffer with the problem depending on how they've wired the external regulator up? Doesn't the fuel pump come on before the ignition of the engine?

Just a word of warning.

When adding aftermarket equipment e.g. electric power steering make sure that the circuit you are connecting to can take the extra current.

On 240s a lot of the wire gauge is very small.
Yes, I plan on supplying it with a new supply with an in-line fuse as a temporary solution, then when I do the new loom I'll do a neater job :)
 

istoo

Well-Known Forum User
Planning on standard, the only electrical upgrade i am interested in is headlights. They are quite pish.

But

If it’s notably more reliable or improves my driving experience then upgrades.


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istoo

Well-Known Forum User
for all the cost i have ordered both a zStore uprated alternator (as best i can see is a 280zx alternator with an adapted writing harness & a rock auto like for like replacement.
so whenever it arrives I will have either a spare or another one for anyone else who is stuck!

Appreciate the help :)
 

istoo

Well-Known Forum User
Note from Andrew at Zstore

“We noticed that you listed your vehicle as a 1973 240Z. Are you aware that the Electric Fuel pump is wired through the voltage regulator? That translates into the electric fuel pump wiring will need to be moved to get power after ignition, so the pump does not burn out. You can not run this kit without doing do or that could be catastrophic failure. Please confirm you understand this.”


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MCBladeRun

Club Member
Note from Andrew at Zstore

“We noticed that you listed your vehicle as a 1973 240Z. Are you aware that the Electric Fuel pump is wired through the voltage regulator? That translates into the electric fuel pump wiring will need to be moved to get power after ignition, so the pump does not burn out. You can not run this kit without doing do or that could be catastrophic failure. Please confirm you understand this.”


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So, next step is to locate the wires and to reroute it to the proper position in the circuit so that it isn't permanently live before you apply the upgraded parts.

BTW I was reading a manual and I came across the fact you could have a mechanical fuel pump and an ancillary electric fuel pump? So it may not be a case that you have one or the other, you may have both.

Hope this information helps

Martin
 

Bazzateer

Club Member
Note from Andrew at Zstore

“We noticed that you listed your vehicle as a 1973 240Z. Are you aware that the Electric Fuel pump is wired through the voltage regulator? That translates into the electric fuel pump wiring will need to be moved to get power after ignition, so the pump does not burn out. You can not run this kit without doing do or that could be catastrophic failure. Please confirm you understand this.”


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Good to see that they're paying attention and looking out for the customer. Plenty of others either wouldn't know/care and would just take your money.
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Note from Andrew at Zstore

“We noticed that you listed your vehicle as a 1973 240Z. Are you aware that the Electric Fuel pump is wired through the voltage regulator? That translates into the electric fuel pump wiring will need to be moved to get power after ignition, so the pump does not burn out. You can not run this kit without doing do or that could be catastrophic failure. Please confirm you understand this.”


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I don't understand what is being said here.

Any diagram I have seen that has an electric fuel pump on it shows the pump being fed from the ign supply to the fusebox from the switch. That ign supply (unfused at this stage) feeds the fusebox. The voltage regulator is then fed (along with the hazard relay) via a fusebox fuse. The unfused feed for the fuel pump then has an inline 20A fuse before the pump.

His comment seems to suggest that the fuel pump is not fed via the ign switch but of course it is.

Why would the pump burn out?

There is more to this than that.
 
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jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
I don't understand what is being said here.

Any diagram I have seen that has an electric fuel pump on it shows the pump being fed from the ign supply to the fusebox from the switch. That ign supply (unfused at this stage) feeds the fusebox. The voltage regulator is then fed (along with the hazard relay) via a fusebox fuse. The unfused feed for the fuel pump then has an inline 20A fuse before the pump.

His comment seems to suggest that the fuel pump is not fed via the ign switch but of course it is.

Why would the pump burn out?

There is more to this than that.
I think he's saying that the voltage regulator will be always live, so the pump will be always on and so wiring needs to be changed to be ign switched. But it's not very clear.
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
I think he's saying that the voltage regulator will be always live, so the pump will be always on and so wiring needs to be changed to be ign switched. But it's not very clear.

It will only be always on and connected to the Voltage Reg if it's wired wrongly and on the 'sense' wire not the ign feed. The sense wire detects battery voltage and tells the alternator what to do. The ign feed supplies current to the windings and is connected to lots of other things fed by ign.

Can you imagine a fuel pump always on?

A standard 240 with an electric pump gets it's power as stated in my previous post and is only live when the ign is on.
 
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