Project Candy Begins (rb25det 240z)

Wally

Club Member
Well that's the engine all done and stripped down. Hopefully I get a date soon for the machine shop. All appears OK apart from a slight burr on the no5 piston. It's like the edge has slightly folded over. Not sure if that's happened whilst I removed it or from previous. Theres no signs of any damage in the bore.

Everything is now liberally oiled and wrapped up.

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Tomorrows job is fitting the lights and starting on the electrics. Along with a big tidy up. I'm definitely a messy worker.
 

Wally

Club Member
I just noticed the 4WD sump, was this a Stagea engine?

Yes it's from Stagea and along it being a neo is naking it hard to find out specific info on all the little differences.

I think I just had a moment when I saw the bearings werent evenly worn and went extreme. Line boring was over kill. Just new bearings and balance the crank, flywheel and clutch shoukd do it.
 

Mark N

Club Member
It looks to be the same as an RB26 block with the two bolt patterns for the sump.
What is the casting code on the turbo side, 05U?
 

Wally

Club Member
It looks to be the same as an RB26 block with the two bolt patterns for the sump.
What is the casting code on the turbo side, 05U?

No its 23U. From what I can see and read, the 26 block and the 4x4 25 neo block are very simular. Same sump, diff, oil pick up, rods, crank.

Part of me is tempted to throw on an rb26 head.
 

Mark N

Club Member
No its 23U. From what I can see and read, the 26 block and the 4x4 25 neo block are very simular. Same sump, diff, oil pick up, rods, crank.

Part of me is tempted to throw on an rb26 head.

I don't know if it would be worth doing it if you are sticking with stock internals, but certainly something to consider in the future if you go the forged route.
I would definitely give the block a fresh hone if you haven't already planned it.
If you plan on spending a lot of cash on the engine in the future, invest in a good oil pump and a crank collar if it is the short type.
Either a Tomei, HKS, GReddy or Nitto pump.
I wouldn't bother with an N1 oil pump but would recommend the N1 water pump.
 

Wally

Club Member
I don't know if it would be worth doing it if you are sticking with stock internals, but certainly something to consider in the future if you go the forged route.
I would definitely give the block a fresh hone if you haven't already planned it.
If you plan on spending a lot of cash on the engine in the future, invest in a good oil pump and a crank collar if it is the short type.
Either a Tomei, HKS, GReddy or Nitto pump.
I wouldn't bother with an N1 oil pump but would recommend the N1 water pump.

The engine is going to be kept pretty standard. Aiming for between 300-350 max. The plan is

Light hone
New piston rings
New bearings
Skim head and block
Arp headstuds
Multilayer metal headgasket
N1 oil pump and long crank collar
Normal water pump
R35 coil packs

I want the turbo rebuilding and it's not much more for a hybrid so will probably just go straight for that.
 

Wally

Club Member
Slow day on the car today. Spent a lot of time tidying the workshop and staring at the car hoping the electrics would do themselves.

I've thinned out the EZ wiring harness and removed things I don't need or that will be controlled by the ECU. I've routed the wires to the rear lights as it was the easiest to do and I'm now debating how to put the wires though to the engine bay. Either through the fresh air ducts in the wing or using a bulkhead connector.

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Everything bundled up to where it will go:rear, front, dash, steering column and ecu.

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Some of the removed sections of wire. Keeping it all as I may find another use for the circuit in the future.

I'm really liking the wire on the harness labelled every 5inches so it's going to be easy to trace wires. I've ordered a load of waterproof amp connectors and crimps so next weekend I'll start adding them.
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
Why head studs out of interest? they always look a really good way to scratch the head face to me!
 

Wally

Club Member
Why head studs out of interest? they always look a really good way to scratch the head face to me!

Allows greater clamping force to hold the head down incase I decide to up the boost. Plans for the future are to maybe use a small twin scroll turbo with higher boost. It's relatively cheap insurance but another thing that's probably not required in my build.

Scratching the head will definitely be a worry as it slides over them though.
 

Mark N

Club Member
Why head studs out of interest? they always look a really good way to scratch the head face to me!

Additionally, studs can be torqued more accurately as you only have to overcome friction at one point (the nut) as opposed to two points on a head bolt (bolt head and threads).
ARP studs can also be re-used providing they have been correctly torqued on the previous occasion.
 

Wally

Club Member
More slow work getting done on the car. I think I spend more time staring at it hoping it starts building itself than actually grafting on it.

Engine is now away at the machine shop, coilovers are away getting welding onto the uprights and I'm still waiting on parts/can't decide on what bits to use. Really unsure how I'm going to run the wires through to the engine bay. Either a hole and grommet or a nice bulkhead connector. I may also try and hide the headlight and indicator wiring through the fresh air ducts.

The aircon unit arrived today. So I've started mocking that up. I'll be suspending that from the two brackets above and a bracket on the firewall so I've got room to mount the ecu and wiring beneath. I've got one bracket made and ready to be welded in. The other two hangers I've cut out but I'm waiting on the insulators to arrive before bending them to shape and drilling holes.

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Fits in the gap nicely but I've decide I'll be spinning it 180 degrees so the pipes come in from the RHS.

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The simple bracket I've made that will be welded to the firewall. The front two hangers will be just stripes of metal.

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I'll be using these insulators to mount it all to hopefully mitigate a lot of the vibrations from the fan. I'll also be using these to mount the ecu, relay box and fuzebox.
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Ecu is now going to be mounted under the aircon box as I've had extra room I wasn't counting on. This also always be to tuck the fuzebox and relays higher and to the right.
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
20200701_165339.jpg Hi Wally, why are you mounting you unit sideways? Mine is different (no AC) but it has been easy to align ducting, hoses and valve control. I just used Wicks universal brackets bolted to existing lugs. My unit connects to the fresh air intake too (not yet done).

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Wally

Club Member
Hi Wally, why are you mounting you unit sideways? Mine is different (no AC) but it has been easy to align ducting, hoses and valve control. I just used Wicks universal brackets bolted to existing lugs. My unit connects to the fresh air intake too (not yet done).

With the dash in place I though it would be very tight to fit the hoses in along with a radio. Nothing is permeantly attached yet so I might knock up a second set of brackets. Thank you for the pictures. They are definitely helpful. I think I'll throw the dash in again tomorrow and test the ac unit your way around.
 

Wally

Club Member
Made another bracket to get the aircon evaporator/heater in. Unfortunately it won't fit like Rob suggested. Looking at the pics I think mine is a good few inches bigger which is not surprising so I'm sticking to where I had it originally.

I've also got the ecu, relays and fuzebox mounted to a plate so I can start properly running wiring. I really need to invest in a welder as I'm now waiting on somebody to weld in a couple of brackets I've made and some nuts to the firewall. Little easy jobs I should be able to do myself.

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I think to keep the engine bay as tidy as I can I'll be running the engine loom through the start of the transmission tunnel and up behind the engine. I'll also be running the headlight and horn wiring through the fresh air ducts.
 
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Wally

Club Member
Are you keeping the battery in the engine bay?

I had intented to but I may be putting it behind the passenger seat or in the cubby hole.

I was planning on using something like this but still need to do the calculations to see what amp/h I need.
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