I'm going 1JZ

Russell

Club Member
Right, throttle cable.

Should go through about there
8a692ab48117307d9e02f9eeb393805d.jpg


Comes out here and just need to cut the old pedal and weld the top of the soarer pedal to it and it will be done.
4ae63d6412a46fe947af5abf44b71843.jpg


This bracket needs cutting out and will slide from the inside to properly support the rubber damper on the soarer cable. Will work as originally designed then.
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Russell

Club Member
Right, throttle cable.

Should go through about there
8a692ab48117307d9e02f9eeb393805d.jpg


Comes out here and just need to cut the old pedal and weld the top of the soarer pedal to it and it will be done.
4ae63d6412a46fe947af5abf44b71843.jpg


This bracket needs cutting out and will slide from the inside to properly support the rubber damper on the soarer cable. Will work as originally designed then.
3cbb645dd69810e7643a01ddcad3a4bf.jpg



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Russell

Club Member
Just need to make sure the clutch master cylinder fits now to complete the set.

First to find it
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Was in the last box I looked!
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Yep, fits fine
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Will start to look at the wiring tomorrow. Specifically where the soarer fuse box and ECU need to live and get my 3D printer out to make some brackets!


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Russell

Club Member
Not a part of a build which I enjoy much.

Sat on my drive with a notepad and a beer which is making it a bit better.

Currently removing the feeds I don’t need from the soarer fuse box so I know what I have available.

Planning on feeding as much of the Datsun as possible through here and don’t want any unnecessary wires
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Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Well I'm working on my 240 wiring and tbh if I was going 1JZ I'd buy a 'generic' loom kit like John Palmer did for one of his cars and start afresh.

I could be so much simpler and better AND you will understand it.
 

Russell

Club Member
Getting cold outside so using the kitchen table.

Isolating all the fuses and relays that aren’t needed so I can see which ones I can utilise for other things making the engine bay wiring neater and running as much load through this than the 50 year old Datsun wiring.
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Russell

Club Member
That’s the main fuse box wires all identified, ones I won’t use terminated and available power sources/relays labelled.

The plan is for the battery to live in the boot, power into this main fuse box which will retain all original relays, fuses etc. For the engine.

The engine loom plugs straight into it, the only modification being with the alternator signal wires (switched ignition feed, voltage sense and warning light)

There is a large fused source I can use to power the original Datsun fusebox and at least some of the load will be taken away from the 40 year old wiring:

Radio - will even be labelled properly on the lid.

Headlights - relay and fuse available for dipped beam. Will try to use a spare relay for main beam but the ones left are supplied by 50A fuses which will be a bit overkill I think.

Electric radiator fans, the original engine bay light (keeping it as it’s just cool!).

Will have a look on the Datsun loom next and decide if I want to route the indicators/hazards through it.

I want to end up with a well integrated loom with appropriate plugs etc. Allowing future serviceability as well as being able to remove things should I need to without having to trace and cut wires.


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Russell

Club Member
Well I'm working on my 240 wiring and tbh if I was going 1JZ I'd buy a 'generic' loom kit like John Palmer did for one of his cars and start afresh.

I could be so much simpler and better AND you will understand it.

That would be ideal but I am integrating more of the original cars features into my digital screen so need more of the ECU wires etc.

John kept the Soarer wiring on his 1JZ conversion.

There are universal kits but they can get complicated in their own right.

Wiring specialities make plug and play 1JZ - S30 wiring looms but they aren’t cheap and are also just the bare minimum to make the engine run.

Toyota did an incredible job designing and engineering their cars so I want to keep as much as possible.


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Russell

Club Member
Bit cold and damp to drag the car out today so sat at my desk looking at the speedo again.
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Features;
Needle sweep when turned on
Mileage on the bottom screen (correct to the car)
0-60 Timer - automatic and records the last and best times
0-100 Timer - same as above
Trip - resettable with a click of the wheel
Trip Time - in minutes
Best 0-60 and 0-100 display

Once I work out the mounting solution I am replacing the original trip reset knob with this
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Turning it changes the menu on the top screen. Pressing it resets trip and timers.

Mileage always displayed on the bottom screen.

Getting there with it now with a few bugs to iron out;

-Needle is a bit Jerky. Not much I can do about that without rewriting the acceleration control for the stepper motor. Arduino too short on memory for that so will see if I can live with it.
-Doesn’t always zero properly when booted as the needle seems to “bounce” putting it a few Mph out either way
- 0-60 counts up to 60 fine but also times from 60-0

I also need to design and print a better packaging solution. Looks great from the front but it’s all held together with hot glue and chopped up credit cards!

This is the easy bit. My plans for the Tacho are far more complicated!


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Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Who needs a car when you can do 115mph in your living room. So you've got rid of the speedo cable for all that stuff?

You could replace those two candles with LEDs whilst you are at it. Are they your headlights?

Sorry - being an bit silly, must be my 'cabin fever'!
 
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