Project Candy Begins (rb25det 240z)

[Wally]

I've got the fronts positioned like so now. The car doesn't feel as stable laterally with the good old shake test.

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[Rob Gaskin]

I've got the fronts positioned like so now. The car doesn't feel as stable laterally with the good old shake test.

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Ok well if you're not happy go back to your position.

 

[Wally]

The engine is out. That's one big job ticked off. I'm supprised how easy it was. This car is surprising me with how easy all the bolts are to take out. Only two have been a pain so far.

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[Wally]

A solid 8hrs on the car today and I don't feel like I've achieved much. All the wiring harness is removed bar the rear section. The wire has got itself jammed in the arch on the rear right. I can't get my hand or a tool in there to free it. That's going to be a interesting one to get free.

Lots of time consuming mince and triv removed and I've started scraping the old seals from around the door. They are really corroded/disintegrated.

 

[Rushingphil]

A solid 8hrs on the car today and I don't feel like I've achieved much. All the wiring harness is removed bar the rear section. The wire has got itself jammed in the arch on the rear right. I can't get my hand or a tool in there to free it. That's going to be a interesting one to get free.

Lots of time consuming mince and triv removed and I've started scraping the old seals from around the door. They are really corroded/disintegrated.

You need to find yourself a small child with tiny hands

 

[Wally]

You need to find yourself a small child with tiny hands

[emoji1787] that would certainly help.


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[Rushingphil]

And I need to find a garage as big as yours !

 

[Wally]

And I need to find a garage as big as yours !

I wish it was mine. I've repurposed a hidden away storage shed at work.

 

[Wally]

Evening gents. Pretty slow last week or so with the car. I've been busy with work so I've got practically nothing done with the car.

Finally decided what I'm doing with suspension and I've ordered a full load of kit from apex engineered. It seems really well built and after chatting with an engineering mate of mine, it looks to be strong.

https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p31/Rear_Suspension_Conversion.html

https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p51/Front_Suspension_Kit.html

I'm still undecided on what coilovers I will be going with or whether I'll need weld in camber plates. I'm think BC at the minute but I'm open to suggestions. With all the adjustable kit from apex I'm thinking that I probably won't need the camber plates as I should be able to adjust it from the bottom. Yet again, I'm open to your thoughts on this.

Hopefully the car will be going to the blasters in the next couple of weeks, then off to have the new rhd bulkhead welded in.

 

[Alphabettispaghetti]

Evening gents. Pretty slow last week or so with the car. I've been busy with work so I've got practically nothing done with the car.

Finally decided what I'm doing with suspension and I've ordered a full load of kit from apex engineered. It seems really well built and after chatting with an engineering mate of mine, it looks to be strong.

https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p31/Rear_Suspension_Conversion.html

https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p51/Front_Suspension_Kit.html

I'm still undecided on what coilovers I will be going with or whether I'll need weld in camber plates. I'm think BC at the minute but I'm open to suggestions. With all the adjustable kit from apex I'm thinking that I probably won't need the camber plates as I should be able to adjust it from the bottom. Yet again, I'm open to your thoughts on this.

Hopefully the car will be going to the blasters in the next couple of weeks, then off to have the new rhd bulkhead welded in.

If you've not already paid, a set of intrax suspension and road/rally top mounts will give you all you need while saving you money and having better quality dampers etc. you wont need to cut your shell about either. Just an option instead of all the above.

 

[Wally]

If you've not already paid, a set of intrax suspension and road/rally top mounts will give you all you need while saving you money and having better quality dampers etc. you wont need to cut your shell about either. Just an option instead of all the above.

All the apex kit is probably over the top but I like the look of it and I want to go a little stupid with this car. The apex kit doesn't come with coilovers so I'm still debating on what I will get. I don't want the ride to be race car hard but a great handling road car.

 

[Alphabettispaghetti]

All the apex kit is probably over the top but I like the look of it and I want to go a little stupid with this car. The apex kit doesn't come with coilovers so I'm still debating on what I will get. I don't want the ride to be race car hard but a great handling road car.

Have you paid for it yet? Its all solid joints everywhere, its more than race car hard!

 

[Wally]

Have you paid for it yet? Its all solid joints everywhere, its more than race car hard!

I have, yes. Worst case if I find the rose jointed arms are too much I can always switch back to ones with brushes.


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[jonbills]

I think the apexengineered stuff looks pretty good and you should have enough adjustment to not need camber plates.

 

[Ian]

The Apex stuff should be good. Main reason I don't run something like that is all the solid joints, I want to keep my car nice for on the road, the solid joints would be hard and noisy and would probably be harder on the chassis.

I really like the design of their rear diff mount setup. If I was building my setup again I'd be tempted to try it and see if I could convert the inner control arm mounts to a poly-bush setup.

I'm still undecided on what coilovers I will be going with or whether I'll need weld in camber plates. I'm think BC at the minute but I'm open to suggestions. With all the adjustable kit from apex I'm thinking that I probably won't need the camber plates as I should be able to adjust it from the bottom. Yet again, I'm open to your thoughts on this.

BC will be more than adequate unless you want to go more high end. I'd like to change to an Ohlins setup in my future plans for the car, but to be honest I doubt I'd gain much benefit, its more a mental thing I think in knowing I have the best setup possible.

I'd definitely go with camber plates, its better to adjust camber from the top than the bottom. Had you thought about their A arm front suspension conversion? https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p25/TRACK_ATTACK_-_Complete_Front_Kit.html

 

[jonbills]

The Apex stuff should be good. Main reason I don't run something like that is all the solid joints, I want to keep my car nice for on the road, the solid joints would be hard and noisy and would probably be harder on the chassis.

I really like the design of their rear diff mount setup. If I was building my setup again I'd be tempted to try it and see if I could convert the inner control arm mounts to a poly-bush setup.




BC will be more than adequate unless you want to go more high end. I'd like to change to an Ohlins setup in my future plans for the car, but to be honest I doubt I'd gain much benefit, its more a mental thing I think in knowing I have the best setup possible.

I'd definitely go with camber plates, its better to adjust camber from the top than the bottom. Had you thought about their A arm front suspension conversion? https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p25/TRACK_ATTACK_-_Complete_Front_Kit.html

That's interesting Ian, why is it better to adjust camber from the top?

 

[Wally]

The Apex stuff should be good. Main reason I don't run something like that is all the solid joints, I want to keep my car nice for on the road, the solid joints would be hard and noisy and would probably be harder on the chassis.

I really like the design of their rear diff mount setup. If I was building my setup again I'd be tempted to try it and see if I could convert the inner control arm mounts to a poly-bush setup.




BC will be more than adequate unless you want to go more high end. I'd like to change to an Ohlins setup in my future plans for the car, but to be honest I doubt I'd gain much benefit, its more a mental thing I think in knowing I have the best setup possible.

I'd definitely go with camber plates, its better to adjust camber from the top than the bottom. Had you thought about their A arm front suspension conversion? https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p25/TRACK_ATTACK_-_Complete_Front_Kit.html

Thanks for the info Ian. You can get bolt in camber plates for the BCS so that would be an easy win. Why is it better to adjust camber from the top and not the bottom? I've tried googling it but pretty much all the discussions are on camber bolts.

I'm hoping there won't be too much extra stress on the chassis as all LCAs are now effectively affixed to new tubular subframes. They should distribute the stress about.

 

[Alphabettispaghetti]

The Apex stuff should be good. Main reason I don't run something like that is all the solid joints, I want to keep my car nice for on the road, the solid joints would be hard and noisy and would probably be harder on the chassis.

I really like the design of their rear diff mount setup. If I was building my setup again I'd be tempted to try it and see if I could convert the inner control arm mounts to a poly-bush setup.




BC will be more than adequate unless you want to go more high end. I'd like to change to an Ohlins setup in my future plans for the car, but to be honest I doubt I'd gain much benefit, its more a mental thing I think in knowing I have the best setup possible.

I'd definitely go with camber plates, its better to adjust camber from the top than the bottom. Had you thought about their A arm front suspension conversion? https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p25/TRACK_ATTACK_-_Complete_Front_Kit.html

There isn't an ohlins setup for our cars, also not one thats proven. I'd be happy to adjust camper from the bottom.

I have reservations about the Apex stuff, however as long as the op's happy. that's all that matters.

I don't get why someone would pay this amount for all this then fit budget dampers/shocks. also how Apex have the totally unneeded pushrod setup thats totally untested/proven, costs £5k and then fit $200 cheap us shocks/dampers to it?

 

[Wally]

There isn't an ohlins setup for our cars, also not one thats proven. I'd be happy to adjust camper from the bottom.

I have reservations about the Apex stuff, however as long as the op's happy. that's all that matters.

Reservations about the rose joints or its design?


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[Ian]

Why is it better to adjust camber from the top and not the bottom?

Its not a as convenient to adjust as a top plate and not as easy to simply adjust toe between road and track settings (if you track it)
Any adjustment also affects toe

Annoyingly I can't find the link. It was a while ago there was some technical talk about this and even more annoying I can't remember the main points on why technically its better to use camber plates. I am going to start keeping a record of anything technical I read for future reference.

I'm hoping there won't be too much extra stress on the chassis as all LCAs are now effectively affixed to new tubular subframes. They should distribute the stress about.

Its still shocks, bumps and vibrations transmitted through solid metal parts that are attached solidly to the car without any bushes between the frame and the chassis. While the effect mat not be massive, there will still be some, just personally for me given most are getting on for 50 years old I want to avoid additional stress on the chassis.

There isn't an ohlins setup for our cars, also not one thats proven. I'd be happy to adjust camper from the bottom.

It would be easy to make a setup for them as they could be mounted using a threaded tube the the same way for example the BC ones are connected. You could buy some made for another car that have the spring rates you want or just have some custom made to your specifications.

I don't get why someone would pay this amount for all this then fit budget dampers/shocks. also how Apex have the totally unneeded pushrod setup thats totally untested/proven, costs £5k and then fit $200 cheap us shocks/dampers to it?

You do not have to fit budget shocks surely, you could fit top quality ones if you wanted, most people probably won't but thats a different matter. Only reason someone would spend 5k on it and do this is because they are stupid.

I also don't see a huge advantage from the pushrod setup, its not going to save a huge amount of unsprung weight and as you say its untested, the angles and forces may be less than Ideal.