What did you do to your Z this week?

ben240z

Club Member
With the Ade Foreman rotisserie just watch out for the bolt pin as it has sheared in two on mine! I don't know if mine had a defect in the metal or if it was the rotational load on it but just a warning for you guys if your working under it and it goes, always good to have something else supporting or as a safety limit if something goes wrong when your under the shell.
Got it loaded and rolled over today. I see what you mean about the locking pin being under load. Having said that I can roll the car over to 90 degrees and then back with one hand so it is fairly well balanced.

I might add an auxillery locking mechanism as a back up though.

I think this is a good bit of kit for the money though not sure I would be brave enough to hang a complete car on this model
 

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Wally

Club Member
Got it loaded and rolled over today. I see what you mean about the locking pin being under load. Having said that I can roll the car over to 90 degrees and then back with one hand so it is fairly well balanced.

I might add an auxillery locking mechanism as a back up though.

I think this is a good bit of kit for the money though not sure I would be brave enough to hang a complete car on this model

Would you mind sending me some images of how you mounted the car to the jig please? Mines getting delivered Tue and I'm keen to get some made up as soon as possible.


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ben240z

Club Member
Would you mind sending me some images of how you mounted the car to the jig please? Mines getting delivered Tue and I'm keen to get some made up as soon as possible.


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I made some brackets to mount the rear to the rear bumper mounts. The front is a bit different due to the front crossmember being different so I have welded some brackets into the front crossmember which will double up as ( extra strong) tow points.

I will take some pics tomorrow but the fronts will not make much sense to you.

I think the main thing is to have confidence in the structural integrity of where ever you choose to mount the car and also take care to get the car pivot points identical.
 

toopy

Club Member
Made a start on tidying up my HS6 carbs, just a quick attempt on one dash pot so far,

15 mins with 1000 grade wet & dry, 15 mins with medium grade wire wool, 5 mins or so with a drill and two grades of polishing mop and polish :D

I'm not aiming for a mirror finish, just clean and shiny so i don't mind the age related scuffs and marks, i will spend some more time on this one
though to see if i can improve on it a bit, but not excessively so.
I may start with 600 grade or less! on the next one to see if more of the marks will come out.

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ben240z

Club Member
Would you mind sending me some images of how you mounted the car to the jig please? Mines getting delivered Tue and I'm keen to get some made up as soon as possible.


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Hi, as previously stated, the front mounts are bespoke to this car as the front crossmember is not standard and there are no front bumper mounts.

The rear mounts are on the rear bumper mountings.

The mounts are made from 40mmx40mm x5mm angle

The rear bumper mounts would need to be structurally sound and I am not sure where people attach the fronts to on a standard car.

Having used this over the weekend I think the key is to get the back and front pivot point identical and the car central on the jig. I have the pivot points at 960mm from the ground and this allows the car to roll through 90 degrees even with my bodykit on it. It is easy to roll with one arm but an effort to bring it back up from 90 degrees on my own, But I have done it a few times now.

I have an empty shell, no suspension etc

For the money I think it is a good bit of kit

Hope this helps
 

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Wally

Club Member
Hi, as previously stated, the front mounts are bespoke to this car as the front crossmember is not standard and there are no front bumper mounts.

The rear mounts are on the rear bumper mountings.

The mounts are made from 40mmx40mm x5mm angle

The rear bumper mounts would need to be structurally sound and I am not sure where people attach the fronts to on a standard car.

Having used this over the weekend I think the key is to get the back and front pivot point identical and the car central on the jig. I have the pivot points at 960mm from the ground and this allows the car to roll through 90 degrees even with my bodykit on it. It is easy to roll with one arm but an effort to bring it back up from 90 degrees on my own, But I have done it a few times now.

I have an empty shell, no suspension etc

For the money I think it is a good bit of kit

Hope this helps

That's great Ben, thank you. I was thinking of attaching the fronts to the anti-roll bar or crossmember mounting points. I'll keep doing some digging.


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uk66fastback

Club Member
If I was you, I'd go through the main chassis legs - two bolts each side. Then just weld the holes up afterwards, job done. I'm still trying to find the pics of my old fastback on the one I used. I mounted the front on the Mustang's main frame. Obviously, whatever piece you go through wants to be good condition metal.
 

uk66fastback

Club Member
I cleaned a lot of dust off mine and finally moved some stuff off the roof as well ... so in essence, not a lot.

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ben240z

Club Member
If I was you, I'd go through the main chassis legs - two bolts each side. Then just weld the holes up afterwards, job done. I'm still trying to find the pics of my old fastback on the one I used. I mounted the front on the Mustang's main frame. Obviously, whatever piece you go through wants to be good condition metal.
Be careful as it is unlikely you will be able to pick up on any reinforcing in the legs, therefore you will be asking a bit of 1.2mm metal to take all the strain. I am not saying it will not work but!!!!!!!!!

If you are cutting the legs or front xmember open for any reason then I would look at that area and see where oy u have strong reinforced areas

Purely my opinion
 

uk66fastback

Club Member
As it's a box section though, it's got to be better than just through a piece of 1.2 metal. I put the fastback ones through the front chassis, but the metal was a lot thicker, I'll grant you ...

And with a couple of bolts maybe 8-10 inches apart, you're spreading the load and not localising it too much.
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
If we're talking about the box section that the front ARB mounts in, I can tell you you can't simply bolt the ARB through the box section--it needs a crush tube inside.
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
I attached to the forward facing holes in the front rail, can’t remember what they’re for right now, but they have welded internal nuts and the steel is relatively strong there. Mines a 260z so I’m assuming the 240 has them too
 

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Huw

Club Member
Took the ZX out for one last spin yesterday in the sunshine.

Removed the plastic mudguards, got fed up of tripping over them. Plus the car looks a lot cleaner without them I think.

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Then tucked it up for winter in its bubble.

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atomman

Club Member
I also took the Z out yesterday for one last blast before taking it off the road for some winter updates, It was a bit slippery out though and there was even snow on Pen Y Fan , had to give it a good blast underneath to clean it all off before I put it back in the garage though,
 

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I also took the Z out yesterday for one last blast before taking it off the road for some winter updates, It was a bit slippery out though and there was even snow on Pen Y Fan , had to give it a good blast underneath to clean it all off before I put it back in the garage though,

That second pic is 'winning'.
 
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