240Z manifold water tube seals

Dave Cee

Forum User
Hi

I'm restoring a set of carbs and I need the seals that the water tube goes through

Ring-Rubber - Nissan (14013-73400) NLA I can't even find a pic of what they used to look like

I know some owners blank this off but it's not my car so want to try and save it. The pipe is no good as it's corroded bad and has a small pinhole in it. I have some stainless tube the same size to use.

I thought I would ask on here as some of you may have already been in this situation .
Thanks for looking.

Dave
 

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Farmer42

Club Member
You might find what it looks like in one of the FSMs on http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html

If it were me, I would leave the pipe there but don't connect it up to any supply. I would persuade the owner that carbs run better without the air being heated by the hot water. I found that I got pinking especially in hot weather which, by disconnecting the hot water supply, I got rid of. It also does away with all the unsightly pipework that feed into the manifold.
 

Dave Cee

Forum User
Thanks for the replies guys! I agree with all you have said after researching this before I posted on here. I have managed to use the old seals and pressure tested the pipe at 25psi

Have told him about the advise you kindly gave me and will send him a link to this thread. Meanwhile here are a few pics and the last pic is what I am hoping to get them to.

If anyone is interested I can post some pics when I have finished them
 

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Last edited:

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
FWIW - I also disconnected mine but left the pipe there and it took away a lot of my idling in traffic issues.

When I stop after a blast and pop the bonnet, the exhaust header is radiating lots of heat but the carbs and float bowls feel as if they came out of a fridge! Previously, the carbs felt hot to touch so imagine what that was doing to the fuel and air!!!

Unless there is a need to stay 100% stock or dive around in icy conditions, I would urge the owner to reconsider connecting it up. Or even connect it up and block it internally - to maintain stock look but benefit from cool / cold running carbs.
 

Dave Cee

Forum User
Didn't want to start another thread so can I ask what this is please. Some kind of damper but I can't find it listed as an OEM part. Is it after market?

Thanks. IMG_2496.JPG IMG_2492.JPG
 

Dave Cee

Forum User
Ok going with the delete flow but keep tube intact.

Have I got this about right please? Not sure about the hose circled in blue.

Thanks
post-29130-050710200 1349202392.jpg Dave.
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
The remove you've got on the oil filter side is the pipe that feeds both the carbs and the interior heater matrix. You don't want to delete that.

This is how it looks on my engine (pic before transplant). I blanked off the Y pipe and removed the pipe that bends around the back of the engine (bulkhead side).

The top of that Y pipe feeds the heater matrix.

8eada882cea0913a5caecb87beed34bd.jpg
 

Dave Cee

Forum User
Hope it's ok to stick this on the thread as it's kind of relevant. I need the ball end circled in blue if anyone has one or that complete part. It's worn inside too much really
Also the 2 mesh filters that sit inside the banjo bolts

Many thanks

Dave.IMG_2670.JPG
 

Dave Cee

Forum User
LOL I'm aware that Jap cars are metric but I have tried both 1.25 and standard metric M12 and it's not the right thread

Pitch gauge says 19G so it looks like a pipe thread. You can start an M12 fine bolt for a few threads until it goes tight. I will machine something up after all , it's only for show now.
 

Dave Cee

Forum User
Does anyone know where I can a replacement rubber boot for this damper please? Circled in green

I manage to get it working again but is let down by the perished boot. I can't even find that damper listed anywhere? Thanks very much .
 

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