zedhead260
Well-Known Forum User
Hardly relevant as he's not looking for the last 1.2333 recurring bhp !
LOL - still in air-box denial I see 
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How to get 185BHP
- Thread starter andrew muir
- Start date
LOL - still in air-box denial I see andrew muir
Club Member
Thanks Rob will try that,
Would need an electric fan any sugestions on type and supply etc, also thought I would mention that the crank pully has an extra pully which I am led to believe is for air con, would that be right and can it be separtated ?
Would need an electric fan any sugestions on type and supply etc, also thought I would mention that the crank pully has an extra pully which I am led to believe is for air con, would that be right and can it be separtated ?
andrew muir
Club Member
I didnt get an airbox with the car, just open carbs so bought the K&N s as they are supposed to be ok and fitted Stub stacks which made a big difference through the midrange.
No problem with hot air in Scotland even in the engine bay.
My old Kawasaki motorbike carbs used to ice up even in the Summer!!
No problem with hot air in Scotland even in the engine bay.
My old Kawasaki motorbike carbs used to ice up even in the Summer!!
Nissan used a cold airbox originally. it was red and made of metal. If you dont like the modern version then fit an original one.
whatever you do bin the K+Ns as they will just be sucking hot air into the engine.
DONT underestimate the effect of engine bay temps, even in Scotland you will see 40 -50 degrees with the bonnet closed.
Warm air = less dense air = less power.....basic principles
We have seen several 10's of HP with and without an airbox, but thats down to proper recording and use of data not "that'll do boy" engineering
Warm air = less dense air = less power.....basic principles
We have seen several 10's of HP with and without an airbox, but thats down to proper recording and use of data not "that'll do boy" engineering
andrew muir
Club Member
That is of course true but I have measured the under bonnet temp of the car last year by sticking a thermometer on the airfilter casing and after a fast run on an A road I stoped and jumped out the temp only indicated 34 degrees after closing bonnet and iddling for 10 mins the temp then increased to 42 degrees.
As the stock airbox valve operates at 38degrees it will be taking mostly air from exhausts anyway when it is running.
The car does not seem down on power to me at the moment in fact seems pretty healthy, one of my freinds is a top mechanic who will help with some stuff, he works on various cars and after driving the car also believed it to be putting out around the 150BHP mark: now I know as you tune there will be more heat produced which may affect the tuning results but I am sure they will be slight and not 10s of horsepower,
Newer cars due to lack of space around the engine may be more prone to heat issues.
I don't intend to build a 250BHP drag car just want to know how or what is needed to get a 25 -30 bhp increase.
None of the BDA engines my friend has worked on have used airboxes!
As the stock airbox valve operates at 38degrees it will be taking mostly air from exhausts anyway when it is running.
The car does not seem down on power to me at the moment in fact seems pretty healthy, one of my freinds is a top mechanic who will help with some stuff, he works on various cars and after driving the car also believed it to be putting out around the 150BHP mark: now I know as you tune there will be more heat produced which may affect the tuning results but I am sure they will be slight and not 10s of horsepower,
Newer cars due to lack of space around the engine may be more prone to heat issues.
I don't intend to build a 250BHP drag car just want to know how or what is needed to get a 25 -30 bhp increase.
None of the BDA engines my friend has worked on have used airboxes!
Throttleton
Well-Known Forum User
That mechanic must be part robot part man to tell the bhp of a car from driving it!!
Seriously andrew take the information on board from the advice you have been offered on this forum, you will be much better off achieving your goals that way
SeanDezart
Well-Known Forum User
Not at all - I merely stated that he wasn't looking to gain the last bhp possible as others here for nefarious pruposes.
And stop with the "I can prove that one gians 10s of bhp" - I'll allow you 15bhp on a top tuned engine and that's yer lot with perhaps some improved reaction times.
Mr Gaskin - is that a fan in front or behind the rad ?
Joke man - JOKE !
MikeB
Well-Known Forum User
Andrew
A BDA is a crossflow design, whereas the L Series has the exhaust manifold under the carbs. How about considering thermal wrap for the exhaust manifold?
If you are going to make mods, like cams and increasing compression ratio, you might as well get the max out of your tuning by looking after the other little things. Matching the manifolds to the head, to ensure a smooth passage. Take any rough casting flashings/bumps off the inlet manifolds as well as the head. You can even do work to the butterflies in the carbs to enhance flow. Dave Vizard's book on Tuning the BMC A Series is brilliant for tips on enhancing SUs. And yes I know it's not a Datsun, but what's good for a wee one is the same for a big 'un
Cheers
Michael
A BDA is a crossflow design, whereas the L Series has the exhaust manifold under the carbs. How about considering thermal wrap for the exhaust manifold?
If you are going to make mods, like cams and increasing compression ratio, you might as well get the max out of your tuning by looking after the other little things. Matching the manifolds to the head, to ensure a smooth passage. Take any rough casting flashings/bumps off the inlet manifolds as well as the head. You can even do work to the butterflies in the carbs to enhance flow. Dave Vizard's book on Tuning the BMC A Series is brilliant for tips on enhancing SUs. And yes I know it's not a Datsun, but what's good for a wee one is the same for a big 'un
Cheers
Michael
Not at all - I merely stated that he wasn't looking to gain the last bhp possible as others here for nefarious pruposes.
And stop with the "I can prove that one gians 10s of bhp" - I'll allow you 15bhp on a top tuned engine and that's yer lot with perhaps some improved reaction times.
Mr Gaskin - is that a fan in front or behind the rad ?
I bow to the expert who has clearly done all of this testing and has a 300 hp engine
)andrew muir
Club Member
No just a top mechanic who has 25 years of working on all types of car from Ferraris to minis he is definately someone you has a huge wealth of knowledge and has worked on a huge amount of engines.
Feeling the power is what it is all about I thought, if you can't feel the extra power what is the point?
I do take all info on board an I am careful to evaluate.
Just wanted to know approximately what would be required to get 185Bhp at flywheel.
Feeling the power is what it is all about I thought, if you can't feel the extra power what is the point?
I do take all info on board an I am careful to evaluate.
Just wanted to know approximately what would be required to get 185Bhp at flywheel.
That mechanic must be part robot part man to tell the bhp of a car from driving it!!
Seriously andrew take the information on board from the advice you have been offered on this forum, you will be much better off achieving your goals that way
SeanDezart
Well-Known Forum User
Throttleton
Well-Known Forum User
Just yanking your chain Andrew, your quote above does imply your mechanic can tell the bhp of a car by 'driving' it tho'.
The engine bay temp and the temp of air into your carbs is worth looking at as has been mentioned. Your temp readings may be correct? but why not improve on that as it is a non mechanical upgrade which doesn't cost the earth to improve.