Recent content by alienpoker

BP6RS is normal. No reason to run the resistors in the sparkers anymore that I’m aware of. No one listens to AM radio which the BP6RS was used to cut down on an RFI hum that changed with RPM. So i would recommend the NGK BP6S On an untuned / stock setup. BP5ES are so fine for a stock engine...

From another thread: … “Flamethrower coils; there is a 3 ohm one and a 1.5 ohm one that you use with a ballast resistor. The 3 ohm coil has an 80:1 ratio, the 1.5 ohm coil has a 100:1 ratio, therefore the output voltage of both setups is going to be more or less the same, so basically the whole...

Ahh colder. Must be a 2.8L L6.

None, but you get less strong spark. You could leave it there and use the NGK BP6ES instead of the BPR6ES on a stock 240Z engine. They run great. For performance or if you are racing, you probably have an MSD 6A or other CDI ignition system: you delete the ballast resistor, modify the rotor...

Hmmm… Rotors and caps. While the Bosch GB782 may fit and be correct for the 123 ignition distributor, that crosses to a Bosch 1.234.332.074 rotor The part number I was given for the rotor (according to Bosch) is: Bosch 1.234.332.024 Which was superseded by part number: Bosch 1.234.332.088...

I think Bosch is best for the cap, if it fits. Sorry to hear the new ones may not index right. I got some NOS ones and they did, although out of the two one had a hairline crack. I complained and got 1/2 my money refunded. So I only have one. I like Beru too- I think the 123 ignition/rotors...

Not much to do with the diff -unless you changed it. It’s because you changed your wheel size from stock, so it reads wrong. There’s a pinion on the side of the tranny. Just follow the speedo cable & you’ll find it. Theres a ‘keeper’ with a bolt and then it pulls out, It’s straightforward...

Good points. Nice to hear someone else running 123 ignition on a stroker L28. You can buy a billet distributor clamp that looks better & works nicely. I also bought a Bosch cap and rotor and put the original ones in my toolbox as emergency spares. Bosch is better quality by a far margin...

I do not think this is true. If you plug the vac leak on the forward carb with a cap and leave the hose off the 123i dizzy, all will be well. The dizzy will see no changes in vacuum, and will not change the timing. It will respond only to changes in RPM. Having a way to sense the load on...

Let me know if any info on vacuum advance is useful. I did a video on what the FSM shows, and what 123/Tune+ expects. It’s really confusing and took me several months to get right. For the doubters out there on the 123Ignition dizzy, I have a built L6 Stroker at around 3.1L running on a...

Uhhh… this pic and setup Does Not show TDC. There’s a “notch” in the hub of the gear, which should be underneath the little “-“ dash mark you can see in the oval window at the top. See last pic. Don’t worry if its not perfect, but I don’t see a ‘notch’ at all. And the shiny link will be at...

You don’t say the car. I expect it’s a 240Z from your profile picture. My experience is you need an MSD8920 tach adapter. That works with 123/ignition distributors and MSD6AL on a 240Z. Without the MSD6AL installed, my ‘73 240Z tach worked correctly with a standard coil and the 123/Tune+...

I’ve done all this as well. I actually buy the WVE 4R1209 rotor (for < $20) and start from there. It says ‘Made in Italy’ on the box and has held up well. You need to do this, especially if using CDI. I run a MSD6AL. I actually like the 123/Tune+. I made over 300hp on an engine dyno with a...