1973 Fairlady Z - refurb and fix

Faster Behr

Club Member
Not for want of trying I couldn't really think of a better thread title...

I bought this car from a fellow member yesterday. This makes Z number 3 in the house. Thankfully my wife lets me get on with it. Lucky right?

It's a 1974 1973 Fairlady Z-L Deluxe model (thanks Albrecht for the correct nomenclanture). It was sold new for the Japanese market and made its way into the hands of a US serviceman. When he left Japan he exported it back to Oklahoma - circa 1990. I have all the records for this and some interesting history. Being a Fairlady it has some quirky features such as adapted seat rails, passenger side footrest, and crucially - the steering on the right. Sorry if I have missed anything particular. I am still learning the differences.

The reason for buying it (aside from wanting something quite as rare) is that we are currently part way through my sons 1974 280Z project and - try as I might - I need to be realistic that it isn't going to get on the road for shows and fun this summer. After the last two years of a pandemic I can't face another year of disappointment for us. So the plan with this car is to get it on the road ASAP so it can be enjoyed. Thankfully the mechanicals are all seemingly in good shape. A lot of money has been spent. Whilst I haven't got totally underneath it yet I don't feel it's going to need much. From what I can see the whole car has been rebushed and all the suspension replaced. The rear end in particular actually looks like a 3 year old car.

The paint is poor but there has been very little rust. There has been a small patch repaired on the leading edge of the drivers floor but that's about it. The biggest issue is that the roof has been crushed at some point in has been popped back up. This is fixable, but none of it a priority. The ultimate aim will be to put it back to how it was. That will include rebadging it correctly as a Fairlady, replacing the fender mirrors and also, pulling the L28 and putting back an L20 if I can find one.

The underside is heavily undersealed and it all looks factory applied to me. There is a Bob Sharp racing inlet manifold with a Holley carb (yeah, I know). The exhaust manifold is a tubular type. Make unknown - but looks well made. The exhaust is aftermarket, but old. It's in good condition though. It does start and run well and the gears are good. Brakes work. Clutch ok so far. Road test TBA.

Normally when you buy a new car the interior light or the odd bulb doesn't work. Well the only thing that currently works right now IS the interior light. Oh, and the fan. Nothing else. Drivers window regulator is busted and bodged in the past by previous bodgers. Passenger seat back doesn't hold on the mechanism, oh and it has a KMH speedo (but I have a UK speedo on hand). The door cards and most of the interior is excellent apart from the headlining which is pockmarked and saggy. The dash has one very small crack. Hula girl air freshener will fix that. The ignition switch crapped out on us when we collected it but I fitted a new one today. It needs a new drivers seat belt too. Someone has cut the old one out. Odd.

So, the priorities for now are to get to grips with all the electrical issues and go through the running gear. I intend to update this thread as we go..

A couple of photos for now - I will put up better ones soon..

1.jpg

2.jpg


3.jpg

4.jpg

5.jpg

6.jpg

If anyone knows where I can obtain a wiring diagram for this I would be deeply grateful. Any suggestions warmly welcomed. And does anyone know if an MPH speedo would be a direct replacement for the KMH unit?
 
Last edited:

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
I'd put money on an MPH speedo of similar manufacturing date would fit straight in and work.
 

Albrecht

Well-Known Forum User
As I pointed out in the previous thread, this car is a late 1973 production dated example.
 

Faster Behr

Club Member
As I pointed out in the previous thread, this car is a late 1973 production dated example.
Indeed you did. Thread title and initial content now edited. Thanks for the correction, and for you input yesterday. Always nice to read empirical information when there’s so much nonsense about.
You’ll get good money for the KPH speedo
I think it would be wrong of me to dispose of anything original to the car. For something so small it’ll be easy to hide it away for any potential new owner down the line.
 
Indeed you did. Thread title and initial content now edited. Thanks for the correction, and for you input yesterday. Always nice to read empirical information when there’s so much nonsense about.

I think it would be wrong of me to dispose of anything original to the car. For something so small it’ll be easy to hide it away for any potential new owner down the line.

Good to hear.
 

richiep

Club Member
Worth noting that when you get to the point of looking at a repaint you should get rid of the rear corner marker lights - they’ve been added in the US and aren’t JDM correct. Given it’s nature, it will be worth ticking the cosmetic boxes to get it closer to original, given U.K. rarity. I say this as a biased owner of a 71 Fairlady Z-L though!

On the other hand, I’d keep the L28 personally. L20 may be original but is a much less potent thing. Like here with 240z and 260z, many L20 engined Zs in Japan have bigger capacity L6s in them. It’s possible to build one in a JDM-sensitive way (Japanese exhaust systems, intake, carbs, engine goodies, etc.). Again, I’m biased as my FairladyZ-L has an L28 that I put in it (220-230hp versus the 120 it would’ve had factory with the L20). Ultimately it depends on how you want the car to perform versus total originality. I’d only put an L20 in if going for absolute originality in all respects.
 

SeanDezart

Well-Known Forum User
I agree with Richie and I don't see the point of fitting an L20 for originality if you're going to swap out the stock km/h speedo for a UK mp/h version....

1974 280Z ?
 

Robotsan

Club Member
Worth noting that when you get to the point of looking at a repaint you should get rid of the rear corner marker lights - they’ve been added in the US and aren’t JDM correct. Given it’s nature, it will be worth ticking the cosmetic boxes to get it closer to original, given U.K. rarity. I say this as a biased owner of a 71 Fairlady Z-L though!

On the other hand, I’d keep the L28 personally. L20 may be original but is a much less potent thing. Like here with 240z and 260z, many L20 engined Zs in Japan have bigger capacity L6s in them. It’s possible to build one in a JDM-sensitive way (Japanese exhaust systems, intake, carbs, engine goodies, etc.). Again, I’m biased as my FairladyZ-L has an L28 that I put in it (220-230hp versus the 120 it would’ve had factory with the L20). Ultimately it depends on how you want the car to perform versus total originality. I’d only put an L20 in if going for absolute originality in all respects.
Agree on the engine, for what it's worth. As the L20 wouldn't be numbers matching anyway so wouldn't have a great deal of impact on any future resale value I'd imagine? But please just take this as an optional opinion, not a "you should do this!" as it's your car and you should do whatever you want.

@Healey 12 Congrats on what I think is a bargain considering the price I discussed with the seller! Wish I'd had the cash in my hand ready to go and been geographically nearer than you :)
 

TimFZ

Club Member
The L20 would never be numbers matching as they they didn't stamp the engine number on the vin plated in Japan. Agreed keep the speedo and delete additional lights at rear.

If you find an L20, you could always over bore it to a bigger capacity. Also don't think an L28 would give you an extra 100 bhp as stated above without headwork, big carbs and lumpy cam. With a little work including carbs you could breath on an L20 and get 150/160bhp which would match a stock L26 anyway. Welcome to the jdm club!
 

Robotsan

Club Member
Agree on the engine, for what it's worth. As the L20 wouldn't be numbers matching anyway so wouldn't have a great deal of impact on any future resale value I'd imagine? But please just take this as an optional opinion, not a "you should do this!" as it's your car and you should do whatever you want.

@Healey 12 Congrats on what I think is a bargain considering the price I discussed with the seller! Wish I'd had the cash in my hand ready to go and been geographically nearer than you :)
Obviously I meant congrats @Faster Behr . But congrats @Healey 12 too I guess!
 
you could build a lovely engine in a l20 block. that'd keep the them around Japanese versions of engine mods. Get a nice exhaust from there and some correct carbs. winner winner.
 

SeanDezart

Well-Known Forum User
you could build a lovely engine in a l20 block. that'd keep the them around Japanese versions of engine mods. Get a nice exhaust from there and some correct carbs. winner winner.
You mean like L32 strokers and the like ?

Depends how deep your wife's pockets are as regards buying 'JDM' parts.:oops:
 

SeanDezart

Well-Known Forum User
Do whatever makes you happy.

Just make sure it’s with Japanese parts! Spirit garage exhaust, oer carbs. Missing details and trim bits back.
So also fit whatever makes you happyEXTRA:D Any after-market parts are going to be just that : non JDM period so anything goes. End value will always be judged upon the cars' condition and spec, noy by whether it's wearing Nike trainers.
 
So also fit whatever makes you happyEXTRA:D Any after-market parts are going to be just that : non JDM period so anything goes. End value will always be judged upon the cars' condition and spec, noy by whether it's wearing Nike trainers.

A rare jdm car. Yes, you’d judge a car on its spec. So have Nike trainers not ones from a supermarket.

To keep the thread on track. Have fun. It’s a rare car
 
Top