I'm going 1JZ

Russell

Club Member
The original brake and fuel line holders were pretty scabby, rusty, covered in old underseal and the rubber pretty worse for wear.

We have already put riv-nuts in the chassis rail rather than use the original self taping screw solution.

We bent some new holders and I designed and printed new rubber inserts so we shouldn’t have to worry about them again.

Pretty much the same as the factory ones but gives options if we need to change anything in the future, simply change and reprint them!

Pictures below in no particular order.

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Russell

Club Member
Another job for the 3D printer. The radiator I bought was a cheap eBay special and the top wasn’t even welded on straight which meant that when it was bolted to the car, it looked twisted.
Rather than do the right thing and invest in a proper Mishimoto one, I printed some rubber spacers.
Each a different height and when bolted in, gives the illusion of it actually being straight!

No pics fitted as messing about with the intercooler at the moment. F1934727-2B89-481C-9712-16B95D1EE4EF.jpeg
 

Russell

Club Member
Brake and fuel line brackets painted. Just need to finish 3D printing the rubber parts and we can run the brake and fuel lines which is pretty much the last piece of the engine starting puzzle.
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Russell

Club Member
Not got many more pictures as not that exciting but battery tray fitted in the boot. Battery cables run, cam belt changed and engine well on its way to being plumbed in.

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I also made this little dohicky so I have an engine light, oil level and oil pressure light for when we start it.
Later I will be incorporating this into a digital screen inside the tach but this will give me the info I need for now.
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Russell

Club Member
As the plan for this year is to build it so it’s road legal then use it for the Summer there are a few bits we absolutely must address.
One of those being the engine mounts. These had been bare metal for a few years so we’re looking pretty scabby.

Sorted them out so they look a bit better and back on the car.
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We are then going to just roughly paint the engine bay and use it.
Over the winter (maybe this one) we will strip it down and properly paint it, pretty the engine up properly etc. but for now I just want to get it out of the dark workshop and have a bit of fun with it.

Front of the engine mostly back together, most of the sensors are in, made a start on the thousands of vacuum lines, brackets, clips and pipes that we have long forgotten where they go.
Everything going back on is getting a bit of a clean up and a lock of paint so it’s a bit presentable.
Ultimately it will just be functional this year. All sorts of mismatched colours and ugliness that can be dealt with later.

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Russell

Club Member
Spent some time on the front end. Removable front panel pretty much there, going to slot the top so the intercooler can slide out better.

Wiring in for the fans and headlights but fans need fitting.

Enlarged the holes for the intercooler piping so that fits nicely.

Radiator fitted and bottom hose made (top one easy but not done yet).

Cut the ends off the intercooler and fabricated them to 45 degrees. They finish just inside the engine bay now so easy to get to.
Just need to make the intercooler pipes to the engine now.

Sprayed it with some generic white paint for now and it came out quite nicely.
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Ian

Club Member
Looking good. Removable front panel will be handy. I am hoping to sort this on mine. Then I should be able to install the engine with the gearbox attached.
 

Russell

Club Member
Intercooler and coolant hard-pipes welded up, prepped and sprayed in black raptor which will hopefully go well with the white engine bay.
Don’t have an after of them as still drying.
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Also decided to change the tank slightly and sprayed that in raptor at the same time.
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Russell

Club Member
I kept selling tach’s I had converted but ultimately ended up with a really bad one, wiring all chopped up so cleaned it up, fitted a new board so it will work with the ECU.

The box hanging out of the back is a gauge matcher, I have pinched one of the wires that used to run to the coil and wired it to the output of the gauge matcher.

I am using this to make the 1JZ coolant temp sensor work with the factory temp gauge. The output is the signal for my fan relays which results in a really clean setup without additional temp switches etc.

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Russell

Club Member
pipes finished and pleased with the outcome.

Silicone and rubber hoses are black so should work well. 33B71E93-B370-4CF6-9263-9C432693A038.jpeg
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Main turbo pipework is all powder coated red still from the previous owner, was going to get it redone but might take this route with it.
 

Russell

Club Member
Tank built up ready to fit. Have a bit more do do on the car with breathers, hoses etc before we bolt it in.
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Didn’t get a picture but the tach is fitted and connected to the output from the ECU.
Looks like it works, turned the car over (won’t start with no fuel tank) and the needle twitched. Calling that a win.
 

Russell

Club Member
Should have taken more than just the last photo below which was an afterthought as it was back in the air, hence the funny angle as I took it blind with my arms stretched above my head.

Todays progress looks a bit backwards but it will start looking a lot better soon.

We had painted the front of the engine bay but left the bulkhead area while everything was finalised.
Everything is now routed through the bulkhead where it needs to be and as neatly as I can get it and supported with appropriate fixings.
That includes vacuum pipes, boost controller, wideband, throttle cable, clutch master, brake servo etc.

We then proceeded to take everything back off, rub it all down, plaster rust converter over it and mask everything up ready for its rattle can paint job which it will get during the week.

As I mentioned previously, we are getting it presentable and usable at the moment so we can enjoy it.
At some point in the future, the engine will come out and be properly tarted up and the bay painted properly.
In reality, that will probably not be until we really need to when something has broken (my money is on the turbos).

The paint is just generic primer, white gloss and lacquer. The colour is certainly not a paint match to the Alpine white of the body but it will be clean white and reasonably shiny.
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