I'm going 1JZ

johnymd

Club Member
I've started back on the blue car. Planning on finishing the chassis wiring this week. I'll use the coil feed from this to control a relay that powers the engine loom. I've had a stand along engine loom built so I should be able to run the engine on the floor with just a 12v feed and start switch.
 

Russell

Club Member
Small update on the speedo. I am happy enough with the code to start packaging everything into the car. The arduinos will sit in separate enclosures making them easy to plug a laptop into as a make changes, chase bugs, fix stuff and add features.

First part of this is the menu control which cycles through the menus, resets trip and more.
This uses a rotary encoder and here is my solution to allow me to use the factory trip reset dial to satisfy my desire to keep the whole thing looking as original as possible. 89081CCA-FB3B-4064-94F4-0968481FF454.jpeg
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Russell

Club Member
Slow progress is still progress?

Tested the digital trip reset, it works as expected and retains the factory appearance. 759A2C3F-D604-41F0-851C-1A6C49DCA901.jpeg340E8732-4875-4502-A9CA-555D72902D09.jpeg
 

Russell

Club Member
Fuel tank also finished and ready to bolt back in when I find a suitable (read reasonably priced) pipe to join the filler neck. Also some suitable j-bolts for the straps. 4A691F2C-0BFB-4155-AAB7-7A6E5ECBF0FD.jpeg

I also didn’t want to buy straps if they could be made so borrowed Mark’s old set and we set about making some more.
Came out really well and saved £100 or so!
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Been playing about with the wiring some more. No pictures as nothing much to see but long story short, I managed to wire the ignition relay via the battery charge light.
As the available wiring diagrams aren’t for my model I had to trace wires with a multimeter.
This solution would have worked fine but would have resulted in the battery light being permanently illuminated. The main issue that would have caused would be losing ignition power if the bulb had blown and broken the circuit. Would have been an awful experience trying to trace that problem on the side of the road!
I only found the mistake as I was tracing the battery charge light wiring so I could hook it up to the 1JZ alternator charge light wire.
Found the right wire, and back on track.
I’m just using a cheap battery charger as a 12V source at the moment as I just want to check the correct operation of relays and reduce the risk of letting out the magic smoke if something is wrong!
 

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AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
I always look forward to updates to this thread and your first class work.

The only question that is nagging me though is: do you think fuel will still be sold freely when the car is finally ready for the road!? You and Mr @franky will need to club together and find a black market supplier of sorts!
 
I always look forward to updates to this thread and your first class work.

The only question that is nagging me though is: do you think fuel will still be sold freely when the car is finally ready for the road!? You and Mr @franky will need to club together and find a black market supplier of sorts!

Its a toss up between fuel being in short supply and all those cars needing bare metal resprays :)
 

Russell

Club Member
I always look forward to updates to this thread and your first class work.

The only question that is nagging me though is: do you think fuel will still be sold freely when the car is finally ready for the road!? You and Mr @franky will need to club together and find a black market supplier of sorts!
My plan is to simply upgrade a a Mr Fusion system that should be readily available by the time it’s on the road
 

Russell

Club Member
I want to run my radiator fans and headlights from separate fused relays. I also want the relays to look neat, I want to use the JZ coolant sensor to drive both the original gauge and activate the fans and I want to make use of spare wires I have on the original looms so they stay as modular as possible when I need to take it apart.

I bought a cheap radiator, so cheap that the top tank isn’t welded on straight but there is slot in the side about the width of 2 relays. Bit of a play around on my laptop and a fair amount of printing later I came up with this. Need to work on the lid a bit as it was too fragile.
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Drew this up which is how it’s wired up and fingers crossed it doesn’t let out the magic smoke;
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used spade connectors for the relay holders, wrapped it in loom tape and it came out quite well.
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The white plug has the inputs (fan, high and low beam), black plug is high and low beam to the headlights (need to make that loom at some point). Fan power come straight out to bullet connections at the fan and main power comes from the alternator. 983E13CD-4607-4110-AC8D-C69434E49591.jpeg
 

Russell

Club Member
For the temp gauge I bought one of the gauge marchers, this comes with an programmable output which I will set to fire the fan relays when it gets hot enough. That way I can use the temp sender already on the JZ engine and not need to add any more clutter to the engine bay.

There were a few wires that went to the coil, ballast resister etc that are no longer needed. One of those wires was part of the induction loop and as far as I can trace it is a straight run from the front of the engine bay to the tach which is next to where the gauge matched will live. Result! As long as it doesn’t split into any other wires behind the dash and catch me out!
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Russell

Club Member
Only took a couple of pictures last night but spent some time building the bottom mount for the intercooler.
Needs finishing off but it will have some rubber grommets in it so the intercooler will slot in, then just a couple of tabs on the top to hold it all in.
Still planning on mounting the fans between the intercooler and radiator so needs to be enough gap between.
Will see how well it cools and come up with a better idea if it doesn't work.
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Russell

Club Member
Another couple of hours tinkering and the clutch is sorted. Well I sat sorted, we got it all in and the master cylinder has had it. A few years in the loft have clearly killed it so need to find a new one!
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ECU and fuse box mounted up under the dash so I can make the wiring look neat.
Annoyingly the ecu is slightly crooked based on where the holes landed in the bulkhead so I will adjust the bracket if it annoys me enough. D07FAEED-9CCF-4B29-B05E-9E592F61D260.jpeg

Turbos back on and intake mostly back together, with parts spread around various lofts, sheds etc. I am finding that I have everything to do a job apart from a single really important part that I can’t find or is knackered.
I have had to replace most of the plugs on the loom as I go because they are so brittle the clips are all broken. 5F5C8299-F460-4B3B-B98F-03E3C45DE85A.jpeg
Next on the list is finalising the fuel system which is 99% done, running power cables, sorting earths and then plugging everything in. Should start at that point.
Then the million other little jobs to get everything secure and hooked up enough to actually drive it out of the workshop.
 

Russell

Club Member
Getting excited yet? Moving well in the right direction.

Close to turning the key, just fitting it around limited spare time and budget.

The moment I hear it run I think it will move quickly as we will have some renewed enthusiasm!
 
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Russell

Club Member
Replacement clutch master cylinder installed and bled with a helper on the pedal and I now have a functional clutch!
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i also ordered the pipework I need for the intercooler and radiator which arrived today.

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Russell

Club Member
Turbos back on and laid some of the pipework in there.
Going to try to get the intercooler properly mounted tomorrow evening then spend some time with a tig welder at some point getting all the pipework sorted.

Have ordered a Z-Story exhaust for it as well so will only need to fabricate the final few feet to the downpipe which is now on the other side of the car. Not tried to fit the Soarer downpipe yet but it will definitely need a touch of cutting and welding!

More pics tomorrow when I will hopefully have some sort of progress to show.
 

Russell

Club Member
One picture but more done.
Spent some time on the removable front panel that will hold the intercooler. It’s all mocked up and just needs finishing off.

wired the FCD back into the ecu. With longer wires it will live up under the dash out of the way but accessible should i need it. They are a set and forget type thing anyway.

Sorted out the various earths on the soarer loom I needed and plugged everything in.
Here is how it all sits. The wires will be nicely taped up and look pretty when it’s done. No point doing that now though in case (very likely) I have cocked something up.
If it starts and runs first time I will be really pleased but my main initial goal is to turn the ignition on and not let out the magic smoke from anywhere!
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Russell

Club Member
Changed the intercooler mounting!!

The few people here that have had Iain work on their car will know how much of a perfectionist he is and he wasn’t exactly happy with the bottom intercooler mounts I put together in my usual “ah it will be fine” attitude.

He had a spare evening while I was away last night so snuck up and cut out my “expert” hard work. Apparently aside from it not being quite straight, there was a bit of a list of things he didn’t like - not secured at the bottom properly, hard mounted, fouling on the car in a couple of places.

Here is the new approach to mounting it. I admit it is slightly more elegant than it was.

Now totally straight, rubber mounted top and bottom and properly attached.
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Russell

Club Member
Throttle pedal finalised, fitted, adjusted and lubricated.
Started putting the factory fuse box back in and working out how those wires used to route so nothing is in the way of the pedals when we start it.
Main jobs to run the engine now are - battery cables, finalise fuel tank and surge tank, fuel lines, intercooler pipes and prop shaft.
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