What did you do to your Z this week?

Huw

Club Member
Thanks - I'll check this out next time I'm over there. Don't fancy the sound of that at all. Thankfully, I use Automec DOT5 brake fluid, so it won't destroy the paint and encourage rust like other fluids.
How do you find using DOT5? Any down side?
 

richiep

Club Member
How do you find using DOT5? Any down side?
I've never noticed/had any issues tbh up to this point. It doesn't absorb moisture and doesn't corrode components or damage paint, so those are pluses. The car is never going to be battered around track so the higher boiling point of dot 5 is unlikely to ever be realistically tested by me. Plus, it's purple. I like purple.
 
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Bazzateer

Club Member
DoT5 seems to have varied results dependant upon the car.
I used it in my completely restored 1960 Frogeye back in the 90s and never got a decent pedal. I changed to DoT4 and all was well. The DoT5 does seem to be slightly more compressible in use.
 
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Ped

Club Member
Washed the car for it's valuation pics and to get it ready for next week at the Kop Hill Climb in Princes Risborough. I am just displaying, so didn't realise they have changed the rules - I could have entered for the hill climb too... Maybe next year?
yot744v_threequarter_sept_2021.jpg
 

Huw

Club Member
Washed the car for it's valuation pics and to get it ready for next week at the Kop Hill Climb in Princes Risborough. I am just displaying, so didn't realise they have changed the rules - I could have entered for the hill climb too... Maybe next year?
yot744v_threequarter_sept_2021.jpg
Looking very nice. :)
 

nospark

Well-Known Forum User
I changed my conrod bearings. A straight forward job. Drove the front up on ramps. The oil sump came off without too much bother. Set engine so No 1 is at TDC. Slide the front thin end of the sump toward the passenger side and as you do this angle the rear thick end of the sump downward and toward the drivers side. Care re the oil pick up pipe and remove the dipstick before hand. Fitting it back on was super easy. Use bits of plastic wire to hold the new gasket to the sump every third hole. Get some bolts in loosely and gradually remove the plastic ties. You might read of some faffing about on USA forums. I think it's because the steering column on left hand drive cars gets in the way (??not sure about this).
My old rod bearings were reasonable but showed limited signs of general wear on some of them. There was a bit of sludge in the bottom of my oil sump so looking forward to golden oil over the coming year now its all been cleaned out. A job worth doing and part of the fun learning of an old car.
 

Bazzateer

Club Member
Washed the car for it's valuation pics and to get it ready for next week at the Kop Hill Climb in Princes Risborough. I am just displaying, so didn't realise they have changed the rules - I could have entered for the hill climb too... Maybe next year?
yot744v_threequarter_sept_2021.jpg
My mate is due to run his Works Imp on the hill. I would have been there but I'm already committed elsewhere.
 
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jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
I've started wrapping my exhaust.
It's not easy! none of the primaries go more than 1/2 their length without basically touching another, so lots of short runs on single pipes and more runs wrapping two pipes where they're too close.

DSC_0027.JPG

On the way back from Fourways, I was queuing on the motorway for about an hour, and running a bit lean after which I put down to heatsoak in the injectors.
 

Mr Ex Jnr

Club Member
Is that good to hear John

;)

I have 2x L28 one is p90 head n42 bottom

I have a spare N42 head standard

other l28 i have is a f54 bottom and n42 head

Got £900 in both and both runners happy days :) who you no :)
 

Huw

Club Member
Swapped my torsion bars on the front with some new old stock ones I found after years of hunting. The original ones on the car had rusted badly under the rubbers. I couldn’t find new ones when I restored the car at the time so they had to go back on. They have always been a worry bead in the back of my head in case they failed going over a bump. Sorted now.:) Just the old girls leaky sump next…..

99895BE8-4AA0-4CB1-938E-C9F819E50869.jpeg 26134B77-8317-46B7-A9A4-16194E591650.jpeg
 

Albrecht

Well-Known Forum User
Today I helped James and George of FOURWAYS ENGINEERING load up my 4/70 production dated HLS30U Datsun 240Z bodyshell, for them to take it back to their impressive new premises for a full makeover.

It will be carefully blasted, etch-primed and finally painted after some detail work and minor repairs (such as the rectification of previous owner-added speaker holes!) as well as some 'interesting' period Works-type modifications (spare wheel well delete for 100l tank, PZR type tank mounts, LHD handbrake, Works rollover-bar doublers etc).

I've spent a lot of time stripping out all of the factory tar mat sound-deadener (hard work!) and the floors are original, slightly dented here and there, but extremely sound and will not need any welded repairs. Excellent inner and outer sills, doglegs, inner arches, air tubes/chassis rails, radiator support and crossmember. Front wings and bonnet (early production non-gusseted type) are the originals, are non-rusty and in great condition. Doors are the originals, are in super nick but have car-park dings (some beauties on the RH side) and the headlamp housings/sugar scoops are substitutes as the original ABS items were a bit too grotty to use.

I've had this 'shell sitting on a rotisserie in storage for many years. It would be difficult to find such a good, early car for even a halfway reasonable sum these days, so I'm looking forward to finally being able to get on with it after Fourways have done their stuff.
 

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jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
Today I helped James and George of FOURWAYS ENGINEERING load up my 4/70 production dated HLS30U Datsun 240Z bodyshell, for them to take it back to their impressive new premises for a full makeover.

It will be carefully blasted, etch-primed and finally painted after some detail work and minor repairs (such as the rectification of previous owner-added speaker holes!) as well as some 'interesting' period Works-type modifications (spare wheel well delete for 100l tank, PZR type tank mounts, LHD handbrake, Works rollover-bar doublers etc).

I've spent a lot of time stripping out all of the factory tar mat sound-deadener (hard work!) and the floors are original, slightly dented here and there, but extremely sound and will not need any welded repairs. Excellent inner and outer sills, doglegs, inner arches, air tubes/chassis rails, radiator support and crossmember. Front wings and bonnet (early production non-gusseted type) are the originals, are non-rusty and in great condition. Doors are the originals, are in super nick but have car-park dings (some beauties on the RH side) and the headlamp housings/sugar scoops are substitutes as the original ABS items were a bit too grotty to use.

I've had this 'shell sitting on a rotisserie in storage for many years. It would be difficult to find such a good, early car for even a halfway reasonable sum these days, so I'm looking forward to finally being able to get on with it after Fourways have done their stuff.
What is a "works rollover-bar doubler" Alan?
 
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