My first classic (part-refurb) '78 280z, LHD, auto, Ex-California

Huw

Club Member
Test the unit first aka the EFI bible. Just because it’s mucky it doesn’t mean it’s had it, but by the looks of it it’s been well fiddled with so it’s a good bet it is scrap. It is a Jetronic system variant. I’ve had no luck tracking a UK applicable unit that is set up specifically for the L28 but if you do I’d be very interested in that.
 

Jason McIvor

Club Member
Hey all
Lots of of progress on the air intake system to the engine
stripped everything air intake wise all the way through to the throttle from front right to left - intake piping > air filter box > pipe connector to Air flow meter > air flow meter > air flow meter pipe connector main body (not all the terms are "correct" ;) )
intake pipe : good order, no holes or problems, cleaned and "coloured" with some black exterior trim restorer
air filter box : great order, newish looking air filter, painted the wingnuts, cleaned the metal box, no major issues other than the rubber seal at the inlet side of the box is a little worm with a slight hole. Fixed with a little Q-bond and duct tape
pipe connector from air filter box to Air flow meter : good order, stripped, cleaned, clips roughly repainted, blackened as above with trim restorer
Air Flow Meter AFM : the big boy ! Thanks to Huw for the encouragement and guidance to get stuck in
- externally thoroughly cleaned
- basic operation using this link http://xenonzcar.com/s130/afmrefresh.html# . Cleaned the terminals with some light sandpaper and alcohol spirits. moved the carbon track as mentioned in the article. My plastic door was a complete mess of multiple sealants (seepic) but knives, screwdrivers, hot soapy water, etc cleaned it all off and it's now clean
I have not yet stuck the door back to the AFM as I expect to need it sometime soon for some tuning but its safe and connected and will eventually be stuck down once engine is running/tuned a bit better
- gently cleaned the air temp sensor on the inside of AFM body with alcohol spirit and cotton buds
Otherwise it seemed in pretty good condition with all the right moving bits, no obvious bits hanging off, etc
AFM pipe to main body : A bit of a mess, wrapped in tape as there was a big hole all around it. Q-Bonded the holes, cleaned with trim restorer, clips repainted

Cleaned everything in the engine bay that I could reach while all the items were out - my engine bay is thick with years of dust, a proper pain in the rear and fingers ;(

Outcome
Running a little better immediately on turnover, I was over the moon :) (I've never done an oil or spark plug change before getting this car), allowed engine to warm up without revving etc
Idling with trouble around 800rpm, so opened it a little to about 1000rpm and its much better
So, it's slightly better and definitely worth the learning, cleaning and peace of mind that I understand this part of what is going on - EFIBible is getting repeatedly read to help understand the "art" of making it run a little better but it's ok for now

other observations
fan belt needs replaced - guys, any suggestions for replacement 280z fan belts that can be sourced in UK ?
radiator seems a mess - not much coolant in it (that's today's job) so I will pencil in a radiator replacement for winter work
 

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MCBladeRun

Club Member
As probably already mentioned, rockauto is usually cheaper, more available parts and a quicker delivery time and is cost effective with regards to parts than anywhere in the UK these days.
 

Huw

Club Member
Hey all
Lots of of progress on the air intake system to the engine
stripped everything air intake wise all the way through to the throttle from front right to left - intake piping > air filter box > pipe connector to Air flow meter > air flow meter > air flow meter pipe connector main body (not all the terms are "correct" ;) )
intake pipe : good order, no holes or problems, cleaned and "coloured" with some black exterior trim restorer
air filter box : great order, newish looking air filter, painted the wingnuts, cleaned the metal box, no major issues other than the rubber seal at the inlet side of the box is a little worm with a slight hole. Fixed with a little Q-bond and duct tape
pipe connector from air filter box to Air flow meter : good order, stripped, cleaned, clips roughly repainted, blackened as above with trim restorer
Air Flow Meter AFM : the big boy ! Thanks to Huw for the encouragement and guidance to get stuck in
- externally thoroughly cleaned
- basic operation using this link http://xenonzcar.com/s130/afmrefresh.html# . Cleaned the terminals with some light sandpaper and alcohol spirits. moved the carbon track as mentioned in the article. My plastic door was a complete mess of multiple sealants (seepic) but knives, screwdrivers, hot soapy water, etc cleaned it all off and it's now clean
I have not yet stuck the door back to the AFM as I expect to need it sometime soon for some tuning but its safe and connected and will eventually be stuck down once engine is running/tuned a bit better
- gently cleaned the air temp sensor on the inside of AFM body with alcohol spirit and cotton buds
Otherwise it seemed in pretty good condition with all the right moving bits, no obvious bits hanging off, etc
AFM pipe to main body : A bit of a mess, wrapped in tape as there was a big hole all around it. Q-Bonded the holes, cleaned with trim restorer, clips repainted

Cleaned everything in the engine bay that I could reach while all the items were out - my engine bay is thick with years of dust, a proper pain in the rear and fingers ;(

Outcome
Running a little better immediately on turnover, I was over the moon :) (I've never done an oil or spark plug change before getting this car), allowed engine to warm up without revving etc
Idling with trouble around 800rpm, so opened it a little to about 1000rpm and its much better
So, it's slightly better and definitely worth the learning, cleaning and peace of mind that I understand this part of what is going on - EFIBible is getting repeatedly read to help understand the "art" of making it run a little better but it's ok for now

other observations
fan belt needs replaced - guys, any suggestions for replacement 280z fan belts that can be sourced in UK ?
radiator seems a mess - not much coolant in it (that's today's job) so I will pencil in a radiator replacement for winter work

It’s worth looking for a replacement for that pipe. Any air leak between the AFM and the throttle body will upset the running of the engine. It’s very intolerant of air leaks.

You can get some replacements from places like the zcardeport https://zcardepot.com/search?q=AFM&type=product
 

toopy

Club Member
fan belt needs replaced - guys, any suggestions for replacement 280z fan belts that can be sourced in UK ?

Any good car spares shop should be able to find you something suitable, given the amount of adjustment on the alternator, close enough length wise should be good enough! just make sure the V profile is the same.
 

Jason McIvor

Club Member
Top up spray paint

Folks, is there anywhere in the UK you know and trust that can mix me up a few tins of the right colour code for my car ?
I am noticing little areas of surface rust that I'd like to "fix" as I move along in the fixing/cleaning process - mostly hidden places that can be "patched" without being too noticeable

Colour code 216 as FYI
 

Jason McIvor

Club Member
New Boots

It's a crap picture - will get a better one later but ....
205/50/15s on the front and 225/50/15s on the back
makes a massive difference to the driving - and the wheel clearance ;) - but now the rear is about 1/2inch too close to the road :banghead: so a little adjustment is needed

Had a couple of short journeys - top speed of 50, auto gearbox clicked into the next ratio without too many problems
I did notice that a combination of car and gearbox gave the impression of a bit of breathlessness when initially going up hill !? so need to test that a little bit more
PXL_20210903_075239186.jpg
 

Jason McIvor

Club Member
Nuts and Bolts Map

Folks, anyone know of a nuts and bolts map for the cars ?
The example I have is the headliner board at the rear of the headliner - I've no idea what screw/bolt is needed for this ?
I found this source
http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978
But it doesn't seem to have that particular screw/bolt

The link can help me with lots of other areas of trim I need help with but if anyone has any suggestions I'd appreciate it
 

Jason McIvor

Club Member
So, it's been while - was on hols

New jewellery added to car and the rear ride height raised by 1/2 inch today - now it drives without frequent wheel arch rubbing

I need some help before I pull my hair out
Infuriating #1 : roof trim, rear vinyl panel that holds the rear of the roof trim to the roof. I cannot find the bolts/screws/clips that need to be used to fix it
please someone let me know what I need to order to get this panel connected back to the car ?!

PO also said he struggled to find the right bolts/screws/clips and I dont seem to have any of them with the pile of leftover/spare bolts and stuff I have
 

Jason McIvor

Club Member
Emblems placement guides
Folks
Does anyone know of any guides that show you how/where to place the emblems ?
I've had to get some replacement emblems - couple of them are sticky backed rather than pins and was wondering if there are any fitting/measuring guides for the emblems ?
 

Jason McIvor

Club Member
Update
It's been a while but I have been plugging away trying to get everything ready for Spring

Decided to take the door cards and upgrade/refurb as much as I can
I found a nice line of wood effect inlay with silver/chrome strips that had been quickly painted over in full black ;(
So all of that was stripped, vinyl repaired and awaiting painting

But - I noticed the attached pic
Surface rust, not deep, along the very bottom panel of both the doors
My plan is to rub it all down, add rust convertor and paint it - anything else I should consider ?
 

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toopy

Club Member
But - I noticed the attached pic
Surface rust, not deep, along the very bottom panel of both the doors
My plan is to rub it all down, add rust convertor and paint it - anything else I should consider ?

Personally i wouldn't bother with paint of any kind in this situation, but as the final treatment a decent wax worked well into the edges/seams with a brush, and look to check and re-treat every few years or so.
 
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