Garage envy

grb184

Club Member
View attachment 44170 Taken some time but gettin


Thanks for all of you input...

Builders have finished so went for the Led panels, cctv installed, started to paint the walls white (what a pita painting concrete breeze blocks are!) ceiling to paint, grey pvc flooring on order, humidifier to install, tool storage being ordered soon, shelves to put up, radiator installed (gets cold in Welwyn) ..... etc etc

Hopefully then can get the car out of storage an into her new home!

Oh yes, and then can get around to all of the other jobs I need to do ...otherwise known as the wife’s list!
All done and ready to receive the car back from storage tomorrow E017D22B-DF6C-419B-A967-1BFF08576F72.jpeg
 

Ian

Club Member
Nice cupboards, which brand did you go for?

I'm holding off on buying any until I'm 100% sure of the setup I want. Plus the Z is taking too much money at the moment.
 

MCBladeRun

Club Member
Just had my architect with the drawings round, my garage will be about 6m long by 3m wide. I'm only worried that it'll be really cold in there as it's single brick, and I'll later regret not having it double brick.

I don't know if the trade-off of less width is worth the extra warmth. Then again, there are wall supports that stick out anyway to support the wall :conf2:

Lots of storage above though.
 

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uk66fastback

Club Member
I'm surprised it is single brick - how can it meet building regs re insulation values? Even the slab has to be insulated nowadays! I only ask as we have a part brick conservatory which is coming down later this year and being replaced by 'an extension' - so not permitted development and not a temporary building - so has to conform to building regs ... which means the block and brick walls have to be insulated on top of the facing brick before being boarded.

Unless 'garages' are different ... ?
 

MCBladeRun

Club Member
I'm surprised it is single brick - how can it meet building regs re insulation values? Even the slab has to be insulated nowadays! I only ask as we have a part brick conservatory which is coming down later this year and being replaced by 'an extension' - so not permitted development and not a temporary building - so has to conform to building regs ... which means the block and brick walls have to be insulated on top of the facing brick before being boarded.

Unless 'garages' are different ... ?
Just the garage done in single brick, the rest is double brick. I think building regs see garages as a non-habitual space. Meaning it doesn't need insulation. I think I get away with it being a fire hazard to the rest of the house as well. Which is a bonus.
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
You could put insulation boards up, don't take up as much space as another layer of brick.
 

uk66fastback

Club Member
Ah, I understand now ... ! If you can put a rad in the garage still maybe it'll make a lot of difference (with decent double glazed windows and roller door etc). When does the build commence?
 

MCBladeRun

Club Member
You could put insulation boards up, don't take up as much space as another layer of brick.
I could probably do wooden battons and add celetex in-between with a final layer of plasterboard I guess? Anything to keep it slightly warmer than outside.

Ah, I understand now ... ! If you can put a rad in the garage still maybe it'll make a lot of difference (with decent double glazed windows and roller door etc). When does the build commence?
Might just stick an oil filled electric rad in there. Planning is taking 2 months in Bristol at the moment. Was hoping it would be sooner.
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
I could probably do wooden battons and add celetex in-between with a final layer of plasterboard I guess? Anything to keep it slightly warmer than outside.
I think that's the proper way. I'd just glue and screw celotex to the wall.
if you want posh, Knauf have 1" and 2" insulated plasterboard.
 

Bazzateer

Club Member
Don't forget to leave a small airgap between the outside brick and the insulation, then fit a sealed vapour barrier between the insulation and the plasterboard.
 

uk66fastback

Club Member
It’s a shame that as the extension is on the side of the already hopefully insulated house, the garage bit will be single brick (as opposed to a separate new building with four new walls). You never know, when classics are banned from the roads and we’re all walking round in bubble wrap suits so we don’t accidentally bump into and injure each other, you might want to do the unthinkable ... (convert it into a bedroom).


I know, I know ...
 

tyroguru

Club Member
I understand your reasoning for not wanting another brick course if it's "only" 3m wide (I quote it because it's great to have a nice garage whatever the size). It's new so I'm sure you've got the basics covered but a well insulated and completely sealed door makes a very large difference. I have jabfloor with 18mm chipboard as a base and a mix of celotex/kingspan/rockwool as insulation in the ceiling and walls. It is a great working area from a temperature perspective anyway.

What are you doing about power? I'd say to go way, way overboard on 13A sockets and lights as I find that I always want more power and light. Might you want higher current devices in the future? This is the easiest time to get a 50A+ feed into the garage to future proof yourself if that is a possibility.
 

MCBladeRun

Club Member
What are you doing about power? I'd say to go way, way overboard on 13A sockets and lights as I find that I always want more power and light. Might you want higher current devices in the future? This is the easiest time to get a 50A+ feed into the garage to future proof yourself if that is a possibility.
I'm going to put a 16mm t+e from my fuseboard to a 2nd fuseboard in the utility room that backs onto the garage. Did ponder on doing a supply for a welding machine possibly.
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Normal ring main cable is 2.5mm isn't it? So if it's like a spur to the box then it needs to be about 5mm doesn't it? 16mm seems overkill but better to be big than too small.

16mm will carry 80 Amps. A 3kw appliance would draw 12 Amps.
 
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tyroguru

Club Member
Why not do 16mm while you can as that will let you feed a fuseboard that will future proof you. Better than 10mm. Go big or go home! :)
 
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