I'm at the stage of finding out every thing i can on buying a 240/260

[Fish1234]

So I'm trying to find out as much as i can about sourcing a car. I don't know if it's better money wise to source a car from europe (theirs more choice and it's fairly close no duties) restored rather than buy a cheaper car that needs work. I'm no DIY mechanic so if i bought a car that needed a lot of work (not rust) i would have to pay a garage this would probably mean replacement of suspension, shocks,brakes,brake lines, steering, exhaust, diff (possibly) bushes ect on a unrestored car or better off buying a car for about £10.000- 15.000 more that had had all that work done already?. I find this a tough one.

 

[TimFZ]

Hi, when I bought my JDM import last week I was not expecting to buy an import but realised the rarity of something a bit different once I viewed it. I was expecting a 260z 2+2 as advertised but it ended up as a JDM Fairlady Z 2/2. I would not be afraid of buying an import but the more history you can get the better with it.

With restoration, if you are not going to do at least part of the work, it will be expensive and in most cases, unless you are very handy with a spanner and spray gun, restorations cost more than you will get back selling it. I would consider a nearly complete or complete restored one personally in your situation. I have a fully restored one but not afraid to do mechanical work, I just hate rust and body work so pleased that is already done.

It seems that in most cases, the UK 2 seater cars cost a bit more than the 4 seaters so you may want to consider a 4 in a better state for the same money (think Hedgehogdodger is selling one). Only 18off 1975 model 260Zs exist now though, 10off 260z 2+2s and about 4 JDM Fairlady 2/2s so eventually the rarity value may increase! Beware of Euro and US LHD cars which have been changed to RHD badly. A good job is possible but not cheap to change well. UK and JDM cars all have RHD anyway from the factory.

I think it depends on what you prioritise, do you want to customise it (in which case originality is not so important) or leave it standard? Do you intend to track it (more power and big engines better) or show it (clean and original probably best) or just enjoy driving it knowing its a good car (history helps here and gives you something to talk about.

Good luck!

 

[Fish1234]

Thanks for that i needed some help in knowing the best way to go. I hate spending large money at the best of times. So at least i know its probably better to go the restored way. I won't be using the car to customise or use on track just a fun car. And i had consoled myself to LHD because i found JDM cars expensive up to European sourced cars at least you can pop over to Netherlands or Germany to actually check them out. Hoffman say they will deliver a car for 1200 euros which i thought was ok. But yes you do get a LHD. Maybe you can tell me of some of the sites in Japan you used although my fear is getting something you didn't realise like an auto or a 2+2 from Japan. Thanks Alistair

 

[uk66fastback]

If you’re thinking of buying from Hofmann, go see the car in person. I think there are better cars for the money personally. Jakob (Datsun Europe) and Romas in Lithuania are good guys to get to know on Facebook and sometimes have cars for sale. Do not be afraid to travel for the right car And do not be put off by LHD.
Best of luck!

 

[Mr Tenno]

There are a few threads on the forum with this question but it all boils down to budget. Buy the very best you can afford as everything on these cars is expensive to replace if missing or damaged so it's almost always cheaper to buy a restored car than to do it yourself. Although 'restored' has a wide meaning from 'drivable and cleaned up' to 'every nut and bolt has been replaced' so buyer beware.

Points to note:

• US cars from Europe (Hofmann etc.) are only duty-free for 4 months
• US cars often tend to still have a bit of rust, even the ones originally from California
• If you want to pay someone to work on a Z in the UK there are very few specialists, and they're all expensive.
• Even if you see a car in-person, you'll miss things - if you're spending big, enlist an expert for an inspection.

 

[Farmer42]

If you do decide to opt for a restored car just make sure that you see photos and receipts of all the work done before during and after especially if you are not buying from a known Club member. As with a lot of so-called restorations with any car, people hide a multitude of things especially rust, with filler and a coat of nice paint. Beware an advert that says there is no rust as, even with the best of restorations on a Zed, there is going to be some somewhere.

 

[Fish1234]

Thanks i got a couple of more questions and that will be it. Would you always go for a car that hasn't been undersealed and sometimes you see cars that have 5 speed this is mostly a change or just stay with 4 speed and if you find that it annoys you you can always change it at a later ?

 

[uk66fastback]

Mostly, if a car hasn't been undersealed, it would be a pile of rust by now!

 

[Fish1234]

Ok thanks Mr tenno and others lots of good advice and you have made me think if i should be doing this having no mechanical knowledge and not even a garage large enough to fit a car in. It definitely needs lots of thought and I'm glad i asked the questions. Getting someone to look at it is another difficult thing especially if you source from europe yes i had forgotten about the date we actually leave Europe. Thanks again

 

[moggy240]

I always tell people to buy as complete as possible car. If it is missing a lot of parts or they are damaged beyond repair it will be expensive to replace.

 

[moggy240]

If you have chance to look at some before buying that will give you a better idea.

 

[Mr Tenno]

not even a garage large enough to fit a car in.

The fastest way to destroy a vintage Z is to store it outside in the UK weather!

 

[TimFZ]

Thanks i got a couple of more questions and that will be it. Would you always go for a car that hasn't been undersealed and sometimes you see cars that have 5 speed this is mostly a change or just stay with 4 speed and if you find that it annoys you you can always change it at a later ?

Mine is a 5 speed as were most of the JDM cars of the era. Many USA cars will be 4 speed and I think (but don't quote me) UK and Euro cars only had 5 speed as an option? Another perk of JDM really. Sounds from your earlier reply you wanted a 2 seater. Just be really sure what you are buying before parting with your cash and if possible go and see it first in person (no matter how good a photo, you can spot things in person that wont show up). Good call to get an expert in if you are not really sure what you are looking for. Whilst I have always been a Z fan, I am no expert in these cars but very used to looking around cars generally which does help. Do your research into your proposed model before viewing to assist you checking things are right and what could be missing.

 

[Bazzateer]

Your first priority should be a dry secure garage.

 

[TimFZ]

Your first priority should be a dry secure garage.

A cheap dehumidifier is also recommended, especially if you occasionally bring it in wet. Quick tip, give it a rough towel dry as soon as it comes in if you do so it stays damp for less time. Even better only drive it on sunny days!

 

[Albrecht]

Mine is a 5 speed as were most of the JDM cars of the era. Many USA cars will be 4 speed and I think (but don't quote me) UK and Euro cars only had 5 speed as an option? Another perk of JDM really.

Most Japanese market cars were indeed 5-speed, but 4-speeds were standard equipment on the de-contented and therefore cheaper 'Standard' models. Japan always had the option of Auto boxes as extra cost options on all models.

Most UK and European market cars also came with 5-speeds as stock equipment, and there were a few (very few) Autos in the mix.

USA and Canada had 4-speeds as stock equipment, and Auto became an option later. 5-speeds only became available on later '280Z' models.

Don't forget Australian market which had a fair chunk of cars, almost all of them 5-speed equipped, and of course all RHD.

Upgrading from 4-speed to 5-speed often involves changing the differential too, as 4-speed equipped cars were usually packaged with tall differential gearing.

 

[Alphabettispaghetti]

your £15k would get a decent LHD car, it'll be far from perfect though. Given how close europe is and what they're currently fetching in the US, they're strong money at the min.

Be careful where you buy from, there's a few 'well known' traders who i'd trust as far as Stevie Wonder can see.

 

[TimFZ]

Most Japanese market cars were indeed 5-speed, but 4-speeds were standard equipment on the de-contented and therefore cheaper 'Standard' models. Japan always had the option of Auto boxes as extra cost options on all models.

Most UK and European market cars also came with 5-speeds as stock equipment, and there were a few (very few) Autos in the mix.

USA and Canada had 4-speeds as stock equipment, and Auto became an option later. 5-speeds only became available on later '280Z' models.

Don't forget Australian market which had a fair chunk of cars, almost all of them 5-speed equipped, and of course all RHD.

Upgrading from 4-speed to 5-speed often involves changing the differential too, as 4-speed equipped cars were usually packaged with tall differential gearing.

Thanks for clarifying! I was almost correct!

 

[johnymd]

Generally classic cars are not for the non mechanically minded but could be a good way to learn. It will often become expensive if you have to use a garage that arnt sympathetic to classics. If you find one that actually like the cars then you will be ok.

Now onto money. £15k will not get you a car that has already been restored and needs nothing doing to it. They will all need something but at this low end of the scale it may need a lot. Even into the £20's you will have to get your hands dirty at some point and if you cant do it yourself then it may cost you dearly. Restored cars that need nothing will be well into double your budget.

My advice is always to buy the best shell you can and I dont mean shiny paint. I always look for honest old paint and good gaps. Mechanical's are way cheaper to fix than a rusty shell. Warm dry state US cars with very old or original paint (absolutely nothing shiny) are my preferred choice of cars. Prices could be favourable in the near future so keep an eye on ebay.com or bring a trailer for the modified or tatty cars.

 

[AliK]

Generally classic cars are not for the non mechanically minded but could be a good way to learn. It will often become expensive if you have to use a garage that arnt sympathetic to classics. If you find one that actually like the cars then you will be ok.

Now onto money. £15k will not get you a car that has already been restored and needs nothing doing to it. They will all need something but at this low end of the scale it may need a lot. Even into the £20's you will have to get your hands dirty at some point and if you cant do it yourself then it may cost you dearly. Restored cars that need nothing will be well into double your budget.

My advice is always to buy the best shell you can and I dont mean shiny paint. I always look for honest old paint and good gaps. Mechanical's are way cheaper to fix than a rusty shell. Warm dry state US cars with very old or original paint (absolutely nothing shiny) are my preferred choice of cars. Prices could be favourable in the near future so keep an eye on ebay.com or bring a trailer for the modified or tatty cars.

Wot he said! And others said too

What Johny wrote resonates with me as my brother in law is competent but not mechanically minded so he has spent a fair chunk of cash with specialists for simple stuff. He is learning with me to change things like points and gap things etc.

Also to Johny’s point, I bought a “restored” car nearly 10 years ago now and it still needs work! Case in point, I just spent c. 300 hours I lockdown rebuilding the front and rear axles, dealing with the fuel tank, taking many things including parts of the chassis back to metal, treating and painting. But I’m happy I don’t have structural rust anywhere even if my panel gaps need fettling

I’m quite glad I don’t have a perfect car as I wouldn’t have the heart to drive it as hard as I do!!!!