What did you do to your Z this week?

uk66fastback

Club Member
Took some pics of the repainted grille ... just got to fit it now. Matches the back: Toyota Decuma Grey - no idea why I went for that, the rear was painted in 2016 btw!

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Farmer42

Club Member
Finally finished my hydraulic power steering build yesterday that I started back in September last year and gave the car a trial run. It all worked beautifully with no leaks, clunks or squeals and the steering is light but responsive and no bump steer that I noticed. It now means that even with a dodgy wrist and shoulders I can now drive and enjoy the car again - something I have not been able to do since July last year.

I will do a full write up with pics in due course but in short I used the following main parts:

Rack - Subaru Forester 2.o 1999 (can also use a 1999 Impreza WRX rack) with 1985 Toyota Celica inner track rods and Subaru outer track rods. Used the Datsun rack clamps and rubber bushes

Drive - All from a 280ZX - Late 280ZX pump, belt and belt tensioner pulley, had to swap the 2 groove crank pulley with a 3 groove pulley to accommodate the belt otherwise it wouldn't line up. Also had to swap the normal S30 fan and clutch for a 280ZX fan and clutch as it sits further out from the block otherwise the S30 fan hits the tensioner pulley. The pump and tensioner bolts to the L series cylinder head with no adaptations other than removing any mechanical fuel pump and studs.

Hoses. - I had to rotate the pinion housing through 180 degrees to allow access for the hydraulic hoses to the pump. This meant that the hard lines that went from the pinion housing to the outer rack casing had to be changed as they were the wrong shape. For the high pressure hose, I used the 280ZX end at the pump and the Subaru end at the rack. The low pressure hose was a bit easier as this only used one end at the rubber hose is clamped at the pump end with a clip and Subaru end at the rack. You will need to get hold of the Subaru hoses to give you the rack ends (it is mainly for the flared ends to the pipes as they are not available) but the other coupling for the 280ZX pump is available.

Cross member - This had to be cut in certain places to accommodate the pinion shaft which is longer than the Datsun shaft and at a different angle and also to accommodate the pinion housing to allow it to sit comfortably and level and to allow access for the hoses. As the strength of the crossmember is compromised by the cuts, I got this reinforced by welding a 9mm thick steel plate to the underside of the crossmember to stop any torsion or flexibility from the suspension.

Steering coupling - The Subaru pinion shaft is a different diameter than the Datsun shaft and longer so the Datsun joint on the lower steering bar did not fit and the bar was too long. I used the UJ from a Subaru Forester coupling joint and got it welded to a shortened steering bar (basically cutting off the Datsun UJ and welding the subaru one in its place). All the other parts on the steering column (flexible coupling etc. ) stay the same.

In total, the build cost in the region of £780 with the most expensive parts being the hoses and hydraulic lines which I got made at Pirtek. It could be done cheaper it you have welding and hose making facilities and as the build was trial and error (mainly error!":banghead:) I paid for stuff that was not needed or turned out to be incorrect (Subaru rack bushes and clamps, wrong subaru steering coupler, mistake in the length of the steering bar). I also sourced duplicate parts such as a second crossmember and rack clamps so that if it didn't work as expected I wasn't damaging original parts and they could be re-installed if needed. Having said that, I was fortunate to get parts from club members that did not add to the cost.

Just need to get it all tracked up properly then out for a good long drive with plenty of windy roads!:driving:

I would really like to thank Huw, Steve (8658KV) and Mark (Minksport) with supplying the Datsun parts that I needed and also thank God for RockAuto!!!.
 

MCBladeRun

Club Member
Finally finished my hydraulic power steering build yesterday that I started back in September last year and gave the car a trial run. It all worked beautifully with no leaks, clunks or squeals and the steering is light but responsive and no bump steer that I noticed. It now means that even with a dodgy wrist and shoulders I can now drive and enjoy the car again - something I have not been able to do since July last year.

I will do a full write up with pics in due course but in short I used the following main parts:

Rack - Subaru Forester 2.o 1999 (can also use a 1999 Impreza WRX rack) with 1985 Toyota Celica inner track rods and Subaru outer track rods. Used the Datsun rack clamps and rubber bushes

Drive - All from a 280ZX - Late 280ZX pump, belt and belt tensioner pulley, had to swap the 2 groove crank pulley with a 3 groove pulley to accommodate the belt otherwise it wouldn't line up. Also had to swap the normal S30 fan and clutch for a 280ZX fan and clutch as it sits further out from the block otherwise the S30 fan hits the tensioner pulley. The pump and tensioner bolts to the L series cylinder head with no adaptations other than removing any mechanical fuel pump and studs.

Hoses. - I had to rotate the pinion housing through 180 degrees to allow access for the hydraulic hoses to the pump. This meant that the hard lines that went from the pinion housing to the outer rack casing had to be changed as they were the wrong shape. For the high pressure hose, I used the 280ZX end at the pump and the Subaru end at the rack. The low pressure hose was a bit easier as this only used one end at the rubber hose is clamped at the pump end with a clip and Subaru end at the rack. You will need to get hold of the Subaru hoses to give you the rack ends (it is mainly for the flared ends to the pipes as they are not available) but the other coupling for the 280ZX pump is available.

Cross member - This had to be cut in certain places to accommodate the pinion shaft which is longer than the Datsun shaft and at a different angle and also to accommodate the pinion housing to allow it to sit comfortably and level and to allow access for the hoses. As the strength of the crossmember is compromised by the cuts, I got this reinforced by welding a 9mm thick steel plate to the underside of the crossmember to stop any torsion or flexibility from the suspension.

Steering coupling - The Subaru pinion shaft is a different diameter than the Datsun shaft and longer so the Datsun joint on the lower steering bar did not fit and the bar was too long. I used the UJ from a Subaru Forester coupling joint and got it welded to a shortened steering bar (basically cutting off the Datsun UJ and welding the subaru one in its place). All the other parts on the steering column (flexible coupling etc. ) stay the same.

In total, the build cost in the region of £780 with the most expensive parts being the hoses and hydraulic lines which I got made at Pirtek. It could be done cheaper it you have welding and hose making facilities and as the build was trial and error (mainly error!":banghead:) I paid for stuff that was not needed or turned out to be incorrect (Subaru rack bushes and clamps, wrong subaru steering coupler, mistake in the length of the steering bar). I also sourced duplicate parts such as a second crossmember and rack clamps so that if it didn't work as expected I wasn't damaging original parts and they could be re-installed if needed. Having said that, I was fortunate to get parts from club members that did not add to the cost.

Just need to get it all tracked up properly then out for a good long drive with plenty of windy roads!:driving:

I would really like to thank Huw, Steve (8658KV) and Mark (Minksport) with supplying the Datsun parts that I needed and also thank God for RockAuto!!!.
Can't wait to read the write up, it's interesting that parts were available via different models in order to squeeze it in. Hope you took plenty of photos!
 

MCBladeRun

Club Member
Took the car out for a spin to show it off to some friends. It didn't start first time because I'd drained the battery testing out my new LED lights. So after starting with a jump pack, I drove it on some new roads and hills to see how it would be affected. Pretty much loved it.

I stalled the car and almost hit the bosses new van! My heart stopped for a moment.

Took it to my mate who's a professional car paint sprayer, his dad had owned 3x S30's in his youth. Said the car was in a really good condition, commenting on the straightness and how little rust he could find.

He said I ought to keep the engine bay as is - to paint it would suggest you were hiding something. I guess before and after photos would prove you weren't - I don't know everyones thoughts on this?

Anyway, gave up one of bonnet flaps so I can get my burgundy bonnet painted up. DSC_2025.JPG Old photo of bonnet
 

niroshann

Club Member
Added a welcome passenger! Need to secure it or fit it in the boot!
 

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uk66fastback

Club Member
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Finally my ZTherapy carbs are back on the block ... the fun will be getting them set up as they soon’t come back sorted ... they might look nice, but they’ll be all over the place I think, judging by stuff I’ve read on the ‘net ...

Exhaust all connected up now, standard manifold. One of Sean’s kits can wait until next year ...
 

Huw

Club Member
Well not so much working on the Z but for the Z. I’ve been bemoaning the state of my garage for years. It lets in more weather than it does keep out sometimes. It also has it’s own micro climate inside, when it’s cold and frosty outside it’s raining condensation inside. After many years of arm twisting my neighbour, she agreed to finally get the roof replaced on the block of garages we share.

New roof went on yesterday. Steel with a fancy anti condensation coating, so with luck the ZX won’t get rained on this winter when inside.

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It bucketed down last night, usually I would have a small lake under the car after such rain, bone dry this time.

Not only leaky but also quite dingy when dark, so today I upgraded the lighting. Out went the old fluorescent tubes and in with four 6ft LED battens. So much brighter, but walls now look really grubby now I can see properly, another job for another day.

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Also fitted a little night light for the old girl, who will be all confused tonight by staying dry for the first time in years whilst being in the garage when it’s raining.

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skinjim

Club Member
Finally got the misfire sorted that started after the Fujitsubo header was fitted, a heat shield cured the problem. I also got it on the dyno, it made 177 at the wheels before the new exhaust system, 201 after. I'm very happy with a 24bhp increase [emoji5]

Sent from my SM-T515 using Tapatalk
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
Finally got the misfire sorted that started after the Fujitsubo header was fitted, a heat shield cured the problem. I also got it on the dyno, it made 177 at the wheels before the new exhaust system, 201 after. I'm very happy with a 24bhp increase [emoji5]

Sent from my SM-T515 using Tapatalk
impressive!
 
Finally got the misfire sorted that started after the Fujitsubo header was fitted, a heat shield cured the problem. I also got it on the dyno, it made 177 at the wheels before the new exhaust system, 201 after. I'm very happy with a 24bhp increase [emoji5]

Sent from my SM-T515 using Tapatalk

thsts good! What’s the engine spec? STD exhaust before?
 
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