240Z resurrection

tyroguru

Club Member
I think it may have been a getaway car for Bonnie and Clyde! No biggie though Phil - I’ll look at it as an opportunity for improvement...
 

tyroguru

Club Member
Another day ploughing away at removing underseal. The way I'm doing it is to use a sharp window beading removal tool to remove the top surface and then use an MBX metal blaster to remove the rest down to the original primer and/or metal. For areas I can't get to with the MBX I just use a selection of wire brushes on a drill. For seam sealer and areas of underseal that are in very difficult to get at areas I use heat to melt it and scrape it out or get it with a small hand held wire brush. Seems to work OK.

Once I've got it to where I'm happy I clean it down with POR15 cleaner degreaser once before I abrade the surface with some P180 paper before giving it a good clean again with the POR15. I then apply two coats of UPOL acid 8 etch primer (15-30 minutes apart). I haven't got a blaster sorted yet so I figured that if I cover it with primer then that should hopefully stop any issues with surface rust on any exposed areas while it gets blasted.

So far I've managed to do the front arches and the floors and transmission tunnel. I didn't waste good primer on one of the floors as it needs replacing and I was doubtful about the other but it got lucky and got some primer... An example if the passenger side wing is below.

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The battery tray area needs replacing as does some of the firewall there but I figured I'd cover it all up and let the blaster do their worst with it.
 

moggy240

Insurance Valuations Officer
Staff member
Club Member
I've been carrying on stripping underseal and making slow but steady progress. I knew that the drivers side quarter panel had some filler in it right at the back so I thought that while I had the torch out stripping seam sealer, I'd have a look at that.

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:EXTRAlol:. I dug so much filler out that I thought I might find King Richard in the hole. (In case anyone is confused, the car is upside down.)

The dog leg on the drivers side is in a mess and needs doing so I guess I'm going to probably need to replace the whole quarter panel? If anyone thinks different please say. I think Ian has had a whole new quarter panel recently as part of his Resto Shack work so maybe his supplier would be an option if he's pleased with it.
I would see what the rest of the rear quarter looks like before making a decision.
 

tyroguru

Club Member
I would see what the rest of the rear quarter looks like before making a decision.

Thanks Mike. Yeah, I'll wait for it to be blasted before I make any final decisions on any/all panel replacement needs. Hypothetically, if the panel came back from the blasters with only that area of significant damage, what would you aim to do? Do I have a replacement panel option for just the rear area (couldn't see one but many have missed it) or are you suggesting filler (which I'd rather nor do)?
 

tyroguru

Club Member
The last several weekends have been spent in the garage with some long hours scraping and scrubbing to get all the under seal off. Once that was all done I moved back to the inside to start on removing the seam sealer. All this is a seriously tedious job but I'm sure it will be worth it in the long run and I'm sure I've got to know the make-up of the car a lot better! I think I'm just about there now but I've probably got a few more weekends just finishing off pieces I've missed and general cleaning up (I've got to get glue residue off the firewall and roof for example which will probably take ages!).

Anyway, here's a few random photo's mostly taken in the world of the upside down .

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tyroguru

Club Member
Thats in nice condition isn't it.

Chunks of it are in good condition but there is a fair amount that isn't. I'll do a rust writeup before it goes for blasting but I think there's going to be a reasonable bit to do.

How do you find the s1000r?

For me, it's an astonishing bike. It has incredible balance and it just goes where you point it without even thinking about it. I got a set of PR5's on it recently and it's got even better. Obviously, it goes without saying that the performance is phenomenal and to be honest it's overpowered for my abilities - it's like having a thoroughbred horse that never gets to run fast.

Saying that though, I am going to sell it and there are a few reasons for that. The primary and by far the biggest reason is that I just don't have enough space to do the car and house two bikes (I have to have another bike to leave at the station for the commute - not that I'm going to be doing that again this year though...). The second reason is that I'm hardly ever using it and that plays into the first reason!
 
my house is the only reason my car wasn't finished 5 years ago! I feel your pain.

I liked the s1000r, just gave me a strange vibration tingle, so tried the 1100 tuono, ended up with a superduke r as it was an amazing offer. I love super Nakeds.
 

tyroguru

Club Member
my house is the only reason my car wasn't finished 5 years ago! I feel your pain.

I liked the s1000r, just gave me a strange vibration tingle, so tried the 1100 tuono, ended up with a superduke r as it was an amazing offer. I love super Nakeds.

The Super Duke R is a beast! Very nice.

I've got a 2017 S1000R which they added different bar ends to to supposedly deal with the hand vibrations and I can't say I've had any problems with vibration. A friend who had a 2015 had problems though and eventually changed to a 1250R which he was very happy with.
 

moggy240

Insurance Valuations Officer
Staff member
Club Member
The glue on the roof might come off with a rubber wheel that you can put on the mbx or one that fits on a drill.
Rubber eraser wheel.
 

tyroguru

Club Member
I've mentioned previously that I wanted to remove the outer sill on the drivers side to get a good look at the inner. The outer sill is in a poor condition on that side in several areas so it's got to go (the other side is only a bit better really). A few of the members thought it best to brace the door for this which sounded wise so I finally got around to ordering some metal and I went with a combination of 30mm x 5mm angle and 30mmx5mm flat bar. This is my first welding in anger - well, not just dribbling beads on pieces of metal - so you'll have to bear that in mind when looking at the photos!

Well, it seemed to be doing the job OK so I thought I'd have a go at removing the outer sill... It could have gone better to be honest. It was difficult to figure out the metal layers at the intersections of the different sections and how to separate them without causing too much damage and i should have taken much more time about it studying the construction. Oh well, it's all fixable :) . The inner sill looks to be in very good condition but the inner dog leg (probably not called that) is pretty poor and sections need replacing. I'll put some more pictures of that all up tomorrow but for now here's a few of the brace I've done.


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moggy240

Insurance Valuations Officer
Staff member
Club Member
I know it might be a bit late now but I find it quicker and easier to just grind the spot welds out with a 10mm belt file as it's a pain using spot weld drill bits and then doing the clean up afterwards,this way you do it all in one action. I know you can't use this method if the panel is under another panel.
 

tyroguru

Club Member
Thanks Mike. Yes, obviously the spot welds were carnage at points and severely frustrating and annoying. I'm putting it down to a learning curve but I don't want to do that again really - too much "collateral damage". A small belt file has been on my list for ages as it just looks like a handle tool so I'll get one and try it next time.
 

Rushingphil

Club Member
Great work Jon!

I think the welding on the braces looks excellent :thumbs: But I think I would have gone for angle rather than bar EXTRA:)

Looking forward to your next photos !
 
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