What sort of price will that mani be John?
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Speeduino installation
- Thread starter jonbills
- Start date
johnymd
Club Member
I don't have a price yet Jon. I'm having a test flange cut at the moment then I need to make the runner and get it all to the welders. The cost for materials is low but does have quite a bit of labour time. I expect the head flange and support flange to be under £40 but probably around £60 for 2. Runner material is next to nothing (£30 for 3m length). Welding will be around £80 as an estimate. You will need 2 sets of throttle bodies to make up a 6 bank and they are around £250 each. With these you do get everything you need such as injectors, TPS, cable linkage, MAP interlink pipes, fuel rail, and trumpets. These are easily reassembled as a bank of 6 using 5mm studding.
johnymd
Club Member
My main reason for moving away from the TWM throttle bodies is for improved return, adjustability between ITB's and smoother operation. The bike ones work lovely and are very easy to balance. the TWM's are sticky from idle and a real pain to get perfectly balanced. Because I'm running the engine on the lean side I end up with spitting back if one of the cylinders if it's slightly more lean than the others. I have persevered with this and tried to get it as best I can but I needed a better solution. OEM setups IMO are the way to go.
I'm making a shopping list for my injection conversion.
Is there anything obvious missing?
I've got:
Throttle bodies.
Injectors.
Low pressure pump
High pressure pump
Pressure regulator
Manifold/linkage
TPS.
I need:
IAT sensor
CLT sensor
Swirl pot (how big? 1L?)
Anything else?
Should be done by July [emoji6]
Is there anything obvious missing?
I've got:
Throttle bodies.
Injectors.
Low pressure pump
High pressure pump
Pressure regulator
Manifold/linkage
TPS.
I need:
IAT sensor
CLT sensor
Swirl pot (how big? 1L?)
Anything else?
Should be done by July [emoji6]
I made a little progress on this last week.
I opened up my prosport wideband controller and found some pins on the board to take analog output from. I think when I bought it, it was an extra cost option to have analogue out, although it seems to be standard now.
It looks like the board/circuit was always capable and the cost option was just to add the wires.
So I've added some wires and a plug and it seems to work. The sensor is duff and reports > afr 20 error condition. The analog out has 6v in this state which seems reasonable given afr 19.9 should be 5v. I need to get a new sensor and see what I get with it working.
I think I also need to add a switch to turn it on manually rather than with the ignition. (so it doesn't run the heater when the exhaust is still full of condensation)
I opened up my prosport wideband controller and found some pins on the board to take analog output from. I think when I bought it, it was an extra cost option to have analogue out, although it seems to be standard now.
It looks like the board/circuit was always capable and the cost option was just to add the wires.
So I've added some wires and a plug and it seems to work. The sensor is duff and reports > afr 20 error condition. The analog out has 6v in this state which seems reasonable given afr 19.9 should be 5v. I need to get a new sensor and see what I get with it working.
I think I also need to add a switch to turn it on manually rather than with the ignition. (so it doesn't run the heater when the exhaust is still full of condensation)
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And I added a proper rev counter.
Speedhut 4 1/2 inch with indicator leds.
Installing it was a bit of a faff. Firstly it wouldn't run from the speeduino tach signal wire and I had to wire it into the coil igniter. Then it took me several goes to figure out how to put it in the Z tacho housing. Final state was with speedhut glass removed and bezel rounded off and the whole thing wedged into the original tacho body.
Speedhut 4 1/2 inch with indicator leds.
Installing it was a bit of a faff. Firstly it wouldn't run from the speeduino tach signal wire and I had to wire it into the coil igniter. Then it took me several goes to figure out how to put it in the Z tacho housing. Final state was with speedhut glass removed and bezel rounded off and the whole thing wedged into the original tacho body.
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I remember looking at the speedhut ones and I think that's how they recommend how to fit them by gutting your original housing which is great if you have some ones, not so good if you don't.
That reminds me, I need to change the pairing code!
yellowz
Club Member
On his engine...................
RawlinSTR
Club Member
