How long do you leave your Z parked?

ShanksKop

Club Member
Morning All,

Question if I may:
How long do you leave the Z parked without driving/starting and the battery doesn't go flat (in my case a 280z)?

I'm guessing with the age of the car and standard set up. There are not too many electrics present that draw a charge when the vehicle is parked?

The reason I ask, after my first 'official' drive (precisely a week ago), I've returned to the vehicle and it's completely dead (nothing was left on), not a single dashboard light or indication of life of any sort.

I wouldn't say I'm massively clued up on the mechanical/electrical side of cars, but I've currently some dialogue going with Fourways as one of the main headlights was not at full power compared to the other (it's been like this, since the day I picked it up after UK conversion). They seem to think it may be a faulty earth.

Could this potentially have drained the battery?

On a side note:

If the battery needs replacing, what's the best quality size/brand in the UK for these cars? As the battery compartment/bracket thing, looks a little different to most.

I also have a CTEK battery charger, worthwhile charging the battery? I'd need to do this with battery being removed, assuming it's straightforward.

Thanks in advance
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
On the oldest cars, I think it's just the clock that's a permanent drain on the battery so it can go many weeks. 280 may have a few more things powered, hopefully someone will know some details. I don't think a poor earth on a headlight that isn't on will run it down.
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
I agree with Jon about the earth.

I can leave my 240 and 260 a few weeks without a problem but I usually disconnect the battery on the 260. On the 240 I have a master switch. It may be worth you getting a clamp that bolts on the battery post and has a screw-knob on it to enable you to disconnect the battery easily.

e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Green-Mari...ocphy=1006529&hvtargid=pla-591416332234&psc=1

To test your battery disconnect it, charge it fully, leave it disconnected for a week, reconnect and try to start the car.
 

ShanksKop

Club Member
It's been a while since I used the charger, but I'm sure it tells you if the battery's gone to the heaven's after a few cycles.

Can't recall if it charges a completely flat battery though.

I'll try pull it at the weekend and give it a charge.
 

ShanksKop

Club Member
On the oldest cars, I think it's just the clock that's a permanent drain on the battery so it can go many weeks. 280 may have a few more things powered, hopefully someone will know some details. I don't think a poor earth on a headlight that isn't on will run it down.

My car clocks is dead, so I'm guessing that's one less thing pulling power
 

uk66fastback

Club Member
You need a trickle charger that can just be left on the battery inbetween drives. The battery should still be a decent one though. Tayna do some good ones if you need a new one.
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
My car clocks is dead, so I'm guessing that's one less thing pulling power

Don't believe it - just because the electronics no longer create a regular pulse does not mean that they are no longer drawing power.

I'm with Jon - the electrics / connections in these cars are old and corroded and will likely "leak" a little.

I last left mine for over 3 months in the winter when I was too busy to even open the garage door - she cranked strong and fired straight up. I use one of the isolators Rob linked above.

I bought a Bosch battery for mine as they have served me well in nearly 3 decades of motoring.


Interestingly the Exide battery I first bought when I got the car managed to weep acid all the time but I couldn't be bothered to return it after two years of use.
 
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toopy

Club Member
+1 on the isolator, my car sits in the garage over winter for approx 5 months, the battery is about 4 years old and its never failed to start the car in the spring.
 

toopy

Club Member
I also have a CTEK battery charger, worthwhile charging the battery? I'd need to do this with battery being removed, assuming it's straightforward.

You can leave the battery in the car for charging, just be careful of any clamps on the positive terminal, touching the bodywork when the access flap is down!
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
I personally am not a fan of charging when I'm absent - trickle or otherwise I just don't like a fire risk in case of any form of electronics failure. Just isolate the battery and as toopy says, it will be just fine if the battery is healthy.
 

Paul_S

Club Member
I found the cause of my 240Z power drain - the glovebox door was badly adjusted and sometimes the light plunger wasn't fully depressed and so the light stayed on even with the door shut!
 

ShanksKop

Club Member
Thanks for the responses so far.

I'm getting itchy feet, I might do a midnight trip to the car to remove the battery (no plug in power source where it's parked) and start charging.

Good shout on the isolation switch. I'm hoping in the worst case, it's a shot battery that needs replacing.
 
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ShanksKop

Club Member
The waiting game
3999f8e11acc89b80a0176ca6c353a19.jpg
 

8658kv

Club Member
The waiting game
3999f8e11acc89b80a0176ca6c353a19.jpg
By looking at the pic it appears not to be a sealed battery.

Should have removed the caps on top,to let the gasses out when charging. Also could have checked the level in the battery, and topped up with distilled water if necessary.
 

Paul_S

Club Member
I've fitted an isolation switch too (the battery clamp type) but mainly to prevent wear on the clock when the car is not in use for long periods of time. The clock works fine and I wanted to extend its working life.
 

ShanksKop

Club Member
By looking at the pic it appears not to be a sealed battery.

Should have removed the caps on top,to let the gasses out when charging. Also could have checked the level in the battery, and topped up with distilled water if necessary.
Shows how much I know [emoji4]

It did look very different to me, but with a load of warning signs.

Should I remove caps now?
Should I also look to top up?

I can always stop the charge and restart as it's only been a few hours.
 

Farmer42

Club Member
I had the same problem with mine which started in October with the battery going dead. It would start ok with jump leads and last for a couple of days before it died again. Turned out to be a dud cell inside and it wouldn't charge with a battery charger. I bought a new one from Battery megastore a couple of weeks ago which was a Hankook battery with 4 years warranty for £59 delivered. Time will tell if it is value for money but if it isn't I have the warranty to fall back on.

https://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/hankook-mf57024.html

As was previously said, if you do need a new one you need an 069 to make sure you have the terminals in the right place & the right way round. It should fit in your battery tray and is the right height.
 
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