Limited Slip Diffs

Yes but look at the typical demographic that might have an M3

EastEnders-Mick-Carter.jpg


I was talking about the ones doing serious track work, ring taxi's, running gear in toy cars etc. Thanks for posting up a picture of Sean though:D
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Stereo types aside, I used to enjoy an E46 M3 with around 330BHP and it was a TRUE everyday super car! REALLY nice diff too when pressed hard but I believe it was a clutch based one (but then there was quite a lot of electronic interference to keep it on the road too).

Now back to diffs for Zs, the scooby swap needs to be a 2007-2015 model for it to be an ATB Torsen version. I believe they only come in 3.54 final drives.

At around £400-£500 for a decent one + cost of stubs (£370ish by the time tax and postage take their toll) it's really not that far off the Quaife, so is it worth it? For the £700 initial outlay and a couple of hundred-ish to get it built, you may as well have something new and bullet proof.

Reading club archives, i understand my late 260z was supposed to have a 3.7.

Is there a definitive (Albrecht?) list that shows what diffs our European cars were supposed to have as standard by year?
 

SeanDezart

Well-Known Forum User
Stereo types aside, I used to enjoy an E46 M3 with around 330BHP and it was a TRUE everyday super car! REALLY nice diff too when pressed hard but I believe it was a clutch based one (but then there was quite a lot of electronic interference to keep it on the road too).

Now back to diffs for Zs, the scooby swap needs to be a 2007-2015 model for it to be an ATB Torsen version. I believe they only come in 3.54 final drives.

At around £400-£500 for a decent one + cost of stubs (£370ish by the time tax and postage take their toll) it's really not that far off the Quaife, so is it worth it? For the £700 initial outlay and a couple of hundred-ish to get it built, you may as well have something new and bullet proof.

Reading club archives, i understand my late 260z was supposed to have a 3.7.

Is there a definitive (Albrecht?) list that shows what diffs our European cars were supposed to have as standard by year?

Where do you get your prices from Ali ? Halfords ? :lol:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_...3.54.TRS0&_nkw=subaru+diff+r180+3.54&_sacat=0
 

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johnymd

Club Member
As I mentioned, the Scooby swap is not far off the quaife route but that's if you already have a diff to put the quaife in. The advantage I see with using the Scooby one is it should be quiet as it's not been apart.
 

Rob Gaskin

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IMO you only need an LSD if you are doing sporty stuff, even then I didn't have one in my track-day car. Occasionaly I could have done with one but you learn to live with what you have if you aren't competing.

I have a Quaife in my blue car, don't know it''s there until I do a quick start from a standstill then I notice the grip.
 

SeanDezart

Well-Known Forum User
You'll only need an LSD when it's too late to wish you'd fitted one.

The other advantage with Scoobys is that they're younger (better made - being more modern ?) with usually less mileage ie they might last longer in better nick.
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
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:thumbs: too funny Sean!!! :D

If you look at all those diffs on the eBay link they are all plate types. Try fining an ATB one; it's pretty difficult to find one below £400.

Also the one on eBay for nearly £400 is fully refurbished which is the only route I'd go so that I do the job once; but that one too is a plate type BTW.

As I mentioned, the Scooby swap is not far off the quaife route but that's if you already have a diff to put the quaife in. The advantage I see with using the Scooby one is it should be quiet as it's not been apart.


I don't understand why taking it apart makes it noisy - what causes that? I assume the Quaife kit is new with no slop, dropping in new bearings can only be quieter than the old ones and the pinion / crown wheel are the same so matched wear. Am i missing something obvious?

You'll only need an LSD when it's too late to wish you'd fitted one.

AGREED 150%. Having killed my MR2 by hitting diesel on a wet road, I steered into it and put my foot down but all that happened was the inside wheel lit up and did little to help me correct it. It was never the easiest car to "catch" but the open diff was a giant chink in the armour. So I feel strongly about the 1% of the time when you really need it, the 5% of the time having tail out fun, the 2% of the time on track and the other 30% of the time you never knew it's just quietly doing its thing while driving spiritedly around the country side!!

... they're younger (better made - being more modern ?) with usually less mileage ie they might last longer in better nick.


You sound like you're talking about a wife upgrade! Or being French is that called a mistress!? :p
 

SeanDezart

Well-Known Forum User
If you look at all those diffs on the eBay link they are all plate types. Try fining an ATB one; it's pretty difficult to find one below £400.

You sound like you're talking about a wife upgrade! Or being French is that called a mistress!? :p

I bought two (R180 3.54 LSDs) here off recent JDM imported cars at €350 each.

Maîtresse (prononced "maytresse")......which isn't far off matelasse (pronunced 'matt-lass') being French for matresse.....coincidence perhaps...:rolleyes:
 

Moriarty

Well-Known Forum User
I don't understand why taking it apart makes it noisy - what causes that? I assume the Quaife kit is new with no slop, dropping in new bearings can only be quieter than the old ones and the pinion / crown wheel are the same so matched wear. Am i missing something obvious?
Yes

Noise is often created when rebuilding the diff and inadvertently changing the gear wipe pattern by re shimming the crown and or pinion.

Rewind back a bit, the diff has often been run for many decades creating and bedding in a unique gear mesh wipe pattern, you take it apart and refit it and in the process re-shim the diff to reduce the backlash to factory tolerance, this changes the gear relationships and this creates noise.
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
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Interesting! So was your diff a helical ATB Torsen one or clutch plate based?
 

johnymd

Club Member
As Steve said, you are changing the centre part of the diff which will never be exactly the same size as the parts your removing. You will then shim the diff as best you can but you will almost certainly change the crown wheel and pinion relationship therefore create a noisy diff.
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
As Steve said, you are changing the centre part of the diff which will never be exactly the same size as the parts your removing. You will then shim the diff as best you can but you will almost certainly change the crown wheel and pinion relationship therefore create a noisy diff.



OK that I understand ! :thumbs: sorry I missed it!
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
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The refurb diff guy got back to me::

6ae7d4fdd3aaf0e9c65f9978d58c345f.jpg


I asked if he is able to supply the ATB versions
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
If I had lost the backend on diesel in an MR2, I wouldn't put my foot down.

If you try that in your Datsun it will have the same effect ie it will just speed up the slide.
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Surely. I bow to your greater experience.

Having owned both the NA (dead car with open diff) and a Turbo (grin inducing car with LSD) steering the tail end with your right foot was a far more predictable/ confidence inspiring experience with the LSD car. Both bone stock set up and same vintage.
 

uk66fastback

Club Member
I think if you hit diesel you're mostly fu**ed whatever you have - open diff, LSD, locker etc ... the thing just slides ... and if you put your foot down, even more so ...

Dependent on amount of speed, diesel and the road surface, etc obviously ...

I had an Eaton TruTrac locker fitted on my '66 Ford by Hauser. Nice piece of kit.

https://www.hauserracing.com
 
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