My '76 280z project

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Make sure you have good acceess to the joint e.g. remove the brake backplate etc.When you have got pressure on the joint try hitting the steering arm with two hammers at points 180' apart i.e. opposite each other. Sometimes with a tapered pin that works if you get the hits timed to be exactly together.. It sort of 'springs' the joint apart.

Alternatively tap the splitter on the top of the pushing pin.

Heat usually works though.
 

Dave B

Well-Known Forum User
Cool, I'll get out the blowtorch and try that tomorrow then. The crossmember, rack and struts are all still in one piece at the minute and as you'll I'm sure be aware, they're a bit heavy and awkward to move about like that lol


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Dave B

Well-Known Forum User
I saved myself a few quid by making a dolly for the shell out of some decent castors I found at work and some unistrut the other week
Makes it a doddle to pull the shell out to work on it
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Dave B

Well-Known Forum User
Just warmed them up with the blowtorch and they both popped out with a gentle tap with the lump hammer


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Dave B

Well-Known Forum User
Well, not posted anything about this project for a while. It’s been a little slower going than I’d hoped, but, a little progress this summer. Shell is fully now stripped, a roof chop was sourced and the skin unpicked and welded on. Rotisserie purchased and made to fit. Finally, I decided to go down the route of a full chemical strip, so handed the shell to Pro Strip, back in August. It came back a couple of weeks ago, not too many nasty shocks, a bit of rot I didn’t know about under the n/s tool pocket, and a bit above the n/s footwell/loser bulkhead. Apart from that, it’s just exposed what i already knew. Also found the bonnet, drivers door and a small section on rear quarter full of drill holes, that were full off filler, where the previous yank owner had repaired some minor accident damage. Got someone lined up to do the welding for me over the next month or so, as had to admit, some of it is beyond my skills. Hoping to have it ready for return visit to pro strip for reclean and dip primer by the end of the year.
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uk66fastback

Club Member
That's actually not bad for one of these. Bet it was quite a relief to see there wasn't that much rot (more than you thought). The rotisseries are a great thing as well and have you built yourself some kind of car port there? Great job on the dolly as well. Looking forward to more updates as and when ... but has it got any kind of primer on it at the moment? So I hope it's going back in the garage.
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Hi Dave, a rotisserie is a fantastic aid.

Did your car have the raised rear floor to accommodate tools and wheel etc. I've seen a 280 this week which has and I wondered if they all did?

Well done with the roof.
 

johnymd

Club Member
They didn't all have the raised floor Rob. Mine has the 240z rear floor and door locks. The passenger compartment floors and tunnel are very different from a 240 though.
 

Dave B

Well-Known Forum User
Yeah, was a huge relief when it came back, as seen pictures of relatively solid cars coming back like tea bags
It’s under a car port I built especially for the project as I sealed my garage shut years ago. Used to produce music so it’s a fully soundproofed and insulated room now.
The shell comes back from pro strip passivated to protect from the elements. Been told it will get some surface rust, but not to try and do anything with it as it will be Re dipped and cleaned before being primed. This is another dip process and uses a hi zinc epoxy primer. Cost is 975 (plus vat and transport for the initial strip, and 1500 for the return visit and primering. Not cheap at about 3 grand all in, but I intend to keep the car when it’s done and this seems the best way of giving it a good start. Plus, as it’s already primered it a bit less for the body shop to do when it goes of for paint?
Not sure about the raised floor Rob, I know the rear turrets are taller in the 280 but not too sure about all the differences. I’ve attracted a piccy of the boot floor for you if that helps
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Dave B

Well-Known Forum User
They didn't all have the raised floor Rob. Mine has the 240z rear floor and door locks. The passenger compartment floors and tunnel are very different from a 240 though.



The later 280’s, 77-78 had different door locks didn’t they. Maybe same with a few other things


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chrisvega

Well-Known Forum User
Yes 77/78 models had different door locks, re-designed window regulators, under dash foot well lighting and 5 speed option offered for first time.

The boot floor was raised to accommodate a larger fuel tank on 77-78 models which necessitated the shallow dish wheel well and space saver spare tyre.

Some cars have the floor flat level all the way back and others shaped at 45 degree angle to the hatch depending in which Nissan factory they were produced.
 

Albrecht

Well-Known Forum User
Some cars have the floor flat level all the way back and others shaped at 45 degree angle to the hatch depending in which Nissan factory they were produced.

They were all made in Nissan Shatai's main factory in Hiratsuka City, Kanagawa prefecture, Japan.
 
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