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  #31  
Old 14-08-2014, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by moggy240 View Post
be interesting to see what it is like once blasted
There's not much to these shells even before blasting is there? They were considered to be big and strong in their rally days but that was comparing them to an escort etc.

Be prepared for some work - which judging by what you've had to do and seen so far suggests that you are.
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  #32  
Old 14-08-2014, 09:05 AM
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Yea I'm ready Rob! Though I think I might end up paying someone big bucks to do most of the welding as if I do it, it's going to add months maybe even years to how long it takes!

It's funny you say that! The place its gone to for blasting do a lot of rally prep on Escorts etc. He was talking about how the Datsuns were always prefered on safari rallies because of how strong the shells were over the Escorts.
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  #33  
Old 14-08-2014, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by s2k_adz View Post
Yea I'm ready Rob! Though I think I might end up paying someone big bucks to do most of the welding as if I do it, it's going to add months maybe even years to how long it takes!

It's funny you say that! The place its gone to for blasting do a lot of rally prep on Escorts etc. He was talking about how the Datsuns were always prefered on safari rallies because of how strong the shells were over the Escorts.
It'll be worth it in the end. Just don't get too brow beaten when you get it back. Keep your eyes on ebay as genuine panels do pop up which will help you along. Just make sure you give it to someone you trust if thats what route you choose.

Once it gets some paint on you'll forget about everything you've done before.
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  #34  
Old 14-08-2014, 01:46 PM
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I wish I had the time, space, tenacity and patience required for a project like this!!! I admire and envy you in equal measure!

It'll be so satisfying when done.



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  #35  
Old 19-09-2014, 03:04 PM
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Hey guys, Thanks for all the comments!

I got the car back from Hockly Motorsport a few days ago, all blasted and now in bare metal with a thin coat of plastic (from the plastic media used to blast it).

Its not toooo bad. Or at least there are no nasty suprises apart from those I already knew about. Its still a LOT of work to do and quotes to have it welded elsewhere are around the 5k mark!

Anyway, here are some photos:















The only thing that concerns me is the creasing in the floor pan around where the rear arches and transmission tunnel meet that can be seen in this photo. Can someone confirm to me that their Z was the same when in bare metal?

Im sure there has been no serious damage to the shell and there are no signs of a repair, but its odd that this creasing is there. Is it from the factory?









And finally back at home safe in the garage!


Last edited by s2k_adz; 19-09-2014 at 03:21 PM..
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  #36  
Old 19-09-2014, 03:58 PM
franky franky is online now
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That looks like it could be a lot worse.

regarding the bit you mentioned...









I think looking at some pics of mine there is a limited amount of 'creasing' from the factory, although yours seems to have much much more?

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  #37  
Old 19-09-2014, 04:13 PM
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Cheers for those Franky!

Yea it does! I've been searching all over for underside images for the last hour and it does seem that most of them are pretty creased in that area!

I dont think its anything to do with damage at all as, as you can see the rear 1/4s and welds connecting them are all good. Odd!

What do you think?




Last edited by s2k_adz; 19-09-2014 at 04:23 PM..
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  #38  
Old 19-09-2014, 10:08 PM
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Yours does look a little different to mine in that area though, are they spot welds on top you can see? are the 240's and 260's the same in that area?
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  #39  
Old 20-09-2014, 07:00 AM
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If you have a mosey at my rebuild thread Restoration 240z you can see ripples in my dog legs in the same location. Perhaps not as pronounced but definitely there. It my well be that they used a thicker metal in the 260 which when pressing would give more of a ripple. In that location you are compressing the metal rather than stretching if.
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  #40  
Old 20-09-2014, 07:23 AM
franky franky is online now
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If you have a mosey at my rebuild thread Restoration 240z you can see ripples in my dog legs in the same location. Perhaps not as pronounced but definitely there. It my well be that they used a thicker metal in the 260 which when pressing would give more of a ripple. In that location you are compressing the metal rather than stretching if.
That would make sense Mike, his ripples are more pronounced, I guess they did try to improve some of the construction methods as time moved on?
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  #41  
Old 20-09-2014, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob Gaskin View Post
....
Be prepared for some work - which judging by what you've had to do and seen so far suggests that you are.
Well it looks a reasonable shell to me for a resto. job. To be honest I was expecting it to be much worse so
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  #42  
Old 20-09-2014, 09:49 AM
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Cheers Rob!

Ive managed so source a new 'under skuttle' panel which forms the bottom edge of the windscreen so all that rust can be cut away completely without hours of patching up. I'm also on the hunt for a lower rear valance panel so the same can be done with that.

Rear arch panels are easily sourced as is the drivers floor pan.

Does anyone know where I can get new front bonnet support panels? ZFarm said they used to have a guy who made them but he's now retired.
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  #43  
Old 20-09-2014, 09:50 AM
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Franky and Maxim, I went up to my unit yesterday to inspect the creasing further. Its definitely from factory but is very pronounced! I'll put some more photos up soon.
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  #44  
Old 20-09-2014, 08:24 PM
morbias morbias is offline
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My 260z has the same creasing in that area, I wouldn't worry about it. Up until last year I worked at a Ford production plant and a lot of the thicker pressed white metal had creases too.

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  #45  
Old 22-09-2014, 12:12 PM
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Cheers Morbias! I feel much better about this now. Good to see the car completely bare and find no nasty suprises!

Cant wait to start building back up on a good, painted 100% rot free shell. Feels good to be bringing a car that was sliding towards being a wreck back to 100% health That's why I bought a resto project. Buying a completed ready to drive car would have been the easy option but that's not what I wanted.

Does anyone have a colour chart for the UK cars that shows what colours were made in each year? My car is a 1978 and I would like to paint it a standard Datsun colour appropriate to the year. The car was white from new, then someone really badly sprayed it red. I think I will either go white again, (although I feel there are too many white ones about at the moment) or I really fancy the Safari Gold.... is this year appropriate?
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