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  #16  
Old 01-12-2004, 09:55 PM
grolls grolls is offline
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CHECKING FOR A BATTERY DRAIN WITH AN AMP CLAMP

This ones nice and easy.

1.remember to check one wire at a time.

2.you should see a zero amp draw from the battery.

3. dont forget your stereo and clock will draw some power 0.09 approx.

4.modern cars can take up to 20 mins for processors to power down.

First remember to zero the meter by the wire you wish to check( stops interfierence from other electrical wires/motors).

USE EITHER LEAD ON THE BATTERY, EARTH PROBABLY EASIER AS ONLY ONE WIRE!

1. DO NOT take any battery leads off.

2.zero meter and the clip on the clamp... anything more than 0.09 and you have a drain big enough to flattern the battery in a few days!
as before start removing fuses till the meter drops to near enough zero to find the faulty circuit.
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  #17  
Old 01-12-2004, 10:45 PM
grolls grolls is offline
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Fuel Pump Enertia Switch

ONE THING YOU MUST REMEMBER, YOUR CAR HAS NOT BEEN FITTED WITH THIS ITEM AS STANDARD SO NO CRASH SAFETY TESTING HAS BEEN DONE, FITTING IS AT YOUR OWN RISK

.There are many crash sensors on the market today, some are fitted inside the car and some on the outside(under bonnet)
just remember that if your going to fit one externally make sure its a sealed type with a rubber boot!


Most sensors only have two wires (power in and power out)
not all are wired directly to the fuel pump. some may be wired via a fuel pump relay.

Not all sensors will take the sort of power that a fuel pump will draw so the safest way is to use a relay

As to where to place the enertia switch always on a structural(metal) part of the car ie; on an A post, chassis member, inner wing etc.

You must remember that if you have carbs fitted to your car it will take a few mins for the float bowls to empty, hence the car may stay running for a while till they empty!!!!!!!!!!

but the pump should have stopped the Fuel Pump(most important)

FITTING.

remember to fuse!

You can use a standard 4 pin relay if you wish= nice and easy!

on the relay you should see the following numbers( if not then pm me to see if you have one that will do!)

30,15,87,31



NO.30 = main power feed, take this one from the fuse box spare or battery...YOU MUST FUSE THIS WITH THE FUEL PUMP SUPPLIERS RECOMDATION AS THIS WILL FEED THE PUMP! FUSE AS CLOSE TO THE SOURCE OF POWER AS POSSIBLE.

NO.15= AN IGNITION FEED.IE; FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH(DONT USE A SCOTCH LOCK, SOLDER AND HEAT SHRINK TUBE THE JOINT)
the enertia switch could be fitted here, cut wires and connect an in and an out!)

NO. 31 this is the relay earth, (enertia switch could also be fitted here, same rules as above)

NO 87. this is the wire that will feed the pump.

once wired in. the pannel that you have attached the sensor too, give it a really good hard thump and see it it trips the pump out

NOTE; EVERY SWITCH HAS A DIFFERENT TOLLERANCE OF IMPACT SO IT WOULD BE YOUR CHOICE OF SENSOR AND WHERE YOU PLACE IT AND HOW YOU WIRE IT!

Last edited by grolls; 06-03-2007 at 06:56 PM..
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  #18  
Old 04-12-2004, 11:28 PM
grolls grolls is offline
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engine slow to turn over

there are a few reasons that this may happen.

flat battery, worn out starter,poor connections

just testing with an ohm meter with the circuits statatic. ie not being used is not enough. i will cover volt drop in the next post.
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  #19  
Old 01-02-2005, 08:14 PM
grolls grolls is offline
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engine slow to turn over

assuming we have a fully charged battery and its in good health.

1. disconnect coil so we dont get a spark at the plugs.

2. measure the voltage at the battery when turning over engine.(it should be at least 9.3 volts dc. let the battery voltage settle, ie; turn over for atleast 5 seconds before measuring)

3. now measure the starter motor wires. ie put your multimeter negative wire on the starter motor body(earth) and the positive on the main wire that goes directly into the starter motor. you should have the same reading( you can allow upto half a volt loss due to cables and connections)

if you have more than half a volt loss.

1. with the meter still on volts dc, place the positive multimeter lead on the battery + and the negative on the starter motor wire +( the one that goes straight into the starter) you should see zero volts or as near as damn it when the engine is turned over.

2 do the same with the battery negative and the earth on the starter motor body.

3. again if you have more than half a volt showing you have a bad connection.

4 if you have no volt drop you can assume the starter is worn out( of course assuming the engine is not flooded or seized)

if a reading of more than half a volt is found

leave the multimeter connected to the battery and move the negative wire to each connection between the starter and the battery ie; power feed into the starter then solenoid then the wire that feeds the starter then the battery terminal and do the same with the earth. all of a sudden you will see a difference in the meter reading and hey presto you have found the bad connection.
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  #20  
Old 02-07-2007, 11:10 AM
grolls grolls is offline
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Dug out some old notes that I can share with you all. This check sheet helps with the more modern cars, its just an insight on what to look for.


1,Has Spark. injectors not working.= ECU should be ok, Main relay ok, crank sensor ok.= check live to injectors and continuaty to ECU.

2,No spark. injectors working.= ECU C/P/S ,immobiliser , main relay ok. check live and switching/earth to ignition module.

3,No spark, no injection. Check any ECU controlled sensor for 5 volts. No power would mean power to ECU gone/poor earth.
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