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  #76  
Old 02-04-2017, 09:57 AM
Paul Henley Paul Henley is offline
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Thanks for the comments all, it's one thing getting good feedback from fellow petrolheads, but it's so much better getting it from people who know the marque. The car has progressed a lot further but I'm slow at posting progress reports.

Paul
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  #77  
Old 02-04-2017, 11:10 AM
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Rob Gaskin Rob Gaskin is offline
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I've posted on here before but I'll do it again - I'm absolutely amazed by your dedication and attention to detail. You are doing a fantastic job BUT are you sure you'll want to drive it when it's finished.

I think this one must be a show piece in a museum (or Nissan Dealer) and you need another that's not so perfect for driving and risking.
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  #78  
Old 02-04-2017, 03:43 PM
Albrecht Albrecht is offline
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Lovely job. Big thumbs up from me.
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  #79  
Old 02-04-2017, 10:06 PM
Paul Henley Paul Henley is offline
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Thanks guys, your right Rob I will be nervous driving it, I've never restored a car before and wanted to keep it as close to original as it was when I got it. I've loved doing the car and spent a lot of time with my sons doing it. I have had other sports cars (my current daily driver is a Porsche 996) but never felt the affection that I have with the Z, I've never been afraid of bending or selling the others but would hate to do either with the Z, I'll never sell it and I've already started collecting panels should the unthinkable happen....
Paul
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  #80  
Old 08-04-2017, 06:44 PM
Paul Henley Paul Henley is offline
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Hi all, making a bit of time for an update concerning fitting the engine. Finally got it in but ended up putting it in twice The first time we fitted it (my sons and I) I couldn't get the gearbox to engage, after much deliberation I convinced myself that the problem had to be clutch related and therefore the engine/gearbox would need to come back out so that I could split them and check the clutch fitment. Having done that and finding nothing wrong I refitted the engine/gearbox only to find the problem still there - very frustrating. A bit of further investigation on the net through forums such as this one pointed me to the new clutch master cylinder that I'd fitted. It turns out that although described as fitting the 240z (the cylinder size is correct) the piston rod that comes fitted is actually shorter than the original and so the clutch isn't engaged fully when operated.So after exchanging the original longer Piston Rod into the new master cylinder it operated perfectly, I was both relieved that it worked but annoyed that the part supplied was wrong in the first place causing a lot of rework. Another mistake I made was forgetting that the engine mounts are left and right handed, so although bolting in with a lot of difficulty I found I couldn't fit the air filter box because the gap between the engine and inner wing was to small (the engine was leaning to the passenger side rather than drivers side (as shown in one of the pics). Before refitting the engine for the second time I took the opportunity to send the gearbox away locally to have it aqa-blasted, as I was never happy with my attempts to clean the gearbox. I made the right decision as when it came back it looked new, really happy with the finish. With everything finally correctly fitted including my rebuilt carbs from ZTherapy we fired the engine up. It was perfect and I couldn't have hoped for a better result. So after some frustration (most of it my own making) I'm happy with the engine/gearbox fitting but hope someone learns from the two basic mistakes that I made. Here is a link to the engine running (if it works)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ElS1P34PG8

Paul
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  #81  
Old 10-06-2017, 05:30 PM
Paul Henley Paul Henley is offline
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Hi All bit of an update as its been awhile. Not a lot of progress if I'm honest. After getting the engine running and the car movable, I contacted the body shop to inform them the car was now ready for final panel fit and top paint coat. Before it left I marked up the car (using blue tape) to identify all the damage/scratches that I'd done while carrying out the "first fix".The amount of tape I used confirmed that for me personally it was the correct thing to do in carrying out the paintwork in 2 stages, and leaving the final panel fit and paint until after I'd completed the bulk of the mechanical restoration. Despite having a double garage it's surprising how little room you have while working around all the junk that a family accumulates in a garage. The car left on 10th March and I was hopeful I'd have it returned in 4 weeks, not a chance, the car has been away for about 3 months now and I'd say is probably about 75% complete. The first thing they do is trial fit all the panels to the car to ensure proper alignment prior to painting and this required a lot more preparation than I'd anticipated. Very few of the panels to be fitted were original to the car, the doors and tailgate were sourced from the states, the front wings were new from Nissan, the headlight pods were new from the states though I'm unsure if they were OEM, The bonnet was second hand from within the UK. This mixture of new/second hand panels has required a lot of rework to ensure the correct fit and the lines of the car proper. As is often stated, the bulk of the work in bodywork is the preparation not the actual painting. I dropped by today to check on progress and was pleased to find the majority of the panels have now been painted in either primer or final coat prior to fitting and hopefully it won't be to long before its return, though I didn't press for a date. I did bring home a spare air filter box that I'd asked them to paint in the original orange (as well as the original now fitted to the engine) and I was very happy with the match. A few pics attached, hopefully it won't be to long before I'll have one of all the paint finished...
Paul
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  #82  
Old 30-09-2017, 10:57 PM
Paul Henley Paul Henley is offline
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Seat restoration

Hi all, bit on am update, this time on my old seats. The seats in my car were in a bit of a state, particularly with wear to the driverís seat base and general sagging, corrosion and cleanliness all round. I decided to replace the original covers with a set of MSA replacements. After dissembling the seats I had the frames and springs blasted and then repainted. I had a little trouble removing the bolts from the sides/frames and ended having to use an impact wrench . Before reassembly I retapped the holes and it was a different story. There are wires sewn into the original covers that are used to tie the covers to the seat structures and also provide something for the hog rings to secure to. Although the new covers are designed to accept these wires, they didnít come with my replacement covers, so these needed to be removed from the old for future use. Iíve never done any upholstery work before, so did a bit of research on YouTube to understand how to go about fitting the seat covers and understanding the basics like ďwhat are hog rings and how do you fit them?Ē I read that the way to rejuvenate foam and restore it to its former shape was to inject it with steam, (I used a domestic steam floor cleaner) although this was partially successful and you could immediately see an improvement, I decided to add some additional material to add extra padding. I refitted the existing horse hair like material fitted within the seats for originality but it was very tired, the additional upholstererís wool matting that I added provided both support for the original horse hair lining and added additional bulk. I secured the covers to the frames using the metal wires mentioned earlier and tied them in using plastic cable ties. The replacement covers are very similar to the originals and are in two pieces, one for the seat and one for the back support with built in head rest. The covers for the seat bases were easy to fit over the foam formers and are held in place by clamping the hog rings with a pair of hog ring pliers. Although the seat cover kits come with hog rings and a pair of piers, I found the pliers were basically useless and invested in a new pair of piers that are spring loaded and therefore hold the ring in the pliers while you exert the force to close the rings, a relatively cheap and worthwhile investment. Fitting the covers over the back supports wasnít so easy and I employed the support of my wife in fitting them. Basically you turn the cover inside out and begin by pulling it over the head rest. The material is a tight fit and needs a lot of encouragement to pull it into the correct position over the head rest. Once over the seat cover it is tied to the seat frame using the wire and cable ties mentioned earlier. Once done you then continue to roll the still inside out seat cover over the remaining foam and back support. Once the seat covers are fitted the two sections of the seat simply bolt back together in the reverse manner that you disassembled them. While apart I stripped, repainted and greased all mechanical parts, bolts, runners etc to try and give them that ďas new ď look. One of the best tips that I found was to soften the back support covers by placing them in the oven for a few minutes prior to fitting, that way the softer more pliable material is a lot easier to coax, stretch and move into the position you need it. To hold the foams and additional padding in place I used a quick drying adhesive from Wilkinsons, although cheap it was very effective and I would recommend it. Iíve attached a few picís to try and demonstrate the process I went through. Put a bit more effort into the detail of this particular restoration element as I didnít find much on the forum, hopefully my ramblings will be of some benefit to any members contemplating doing the same.

Paul
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  #83  
Old 01-10-2017, 05:18 PM
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MaximG MaximG is online now
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They look very good I have to say.
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  #84  
Old 01-10-2017, 08:44 PM
Turn & Burn Turn & Burn is offline
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Very tidy work Paul, another step closer to completion...
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  #85  
Old 01-10-2017, 09:48 PM
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johnymd johnymd is offline
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Very very impressed.
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Drives:

'73 240z 1JZ-GTE. Was pretty quick. 11.10@132.5mph
'72 240z RHD (4BOA) Being painted Orange. Bodyshop.
'72 240z LHD Black. Sold.
'73 240z LHD Green. Sold.
'73 240z LHD White. Sold - Future race car.
'73 240z LHD Blue. Sold.
'73 260z LHD Orange. Sold to a good home.
'70 240z LHD Yellow. On route and cant wait.
Skyline R33 GTS - Gone
Skyline R34 GTR - Gone
Toyota Surf 3.0TD

Go to: www.240z.me.uk to checkout the cars.
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  #86  
Old 03-10-2017, 05:47 PM
Bobafett Bobafett is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imustaveit View Post
this time on my old seats.
Paul
Thanks for the info Paul on your seat rebuild, I will be doing the same over the Winter - so some useful pointers, thanks!
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  #87  
Old 03-10-2017, 07:27 PM
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uk66fastback uk66fastback is offline
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When I get some time in the next day or so I'll reply on the seats write up as I've just done one of mine ...

Your car is looking SO good ...
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  #88  
Old 06-10-2017, 12:25 PM
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Ped Ped is offline
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Fantastic job! Well done!
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  #89  
Old 06-10-2017, 08:19 PM
Paul Henley Paul Henley is offline
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Thanks all for the positive comments. I've now got the car back from the body shop following the second phase of painting which mainly consists of bolt on panel preparation (doors, wings, bonnet, tailgate, front panels, spoilers, light surrounds etc), fitting/aligning and final coats.(also includes repairing any scratches I'd made since it's first visit). I'm very happy with the result and now looking forward to fitting the final parts such as lights, horns, aerial, bumpers, badges, decals,wheels, wipers, interior etc etc, possibly the most rewarding part and I actually see a glimmer of light at the end of what has been a very long tunnel. A few pics of the car taken during its last days at the body shop prior to delivery home.
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  #90  
Old 06-10-2017, 10:24 PM
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IbanezDan51 IbanezDan51 is offline
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Looks brilliant. Absolutely love the colour, i was thinking metallic grey for mine some time back.

Credit to yourself!
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