S13 gearbox

[Zed2k]

Hi all, I have fitted my S13/s30 gearbox but now have no speedo, what have you guys done? I just used the original drive and housing from the 240z box but looks like it's not getting driven?
Also which reverse light switch did you use?( as lamps now stay on)
Box is smooth need to fabricate a good gearstick boot now big draft!!
Thanks

[Rob Gaskin]

Nick, I also used my 240Z speedo drive, it worked for me although my speedo is never accurate.

Rev light switch - I used my 240 switch too. Is it screwed right in - if so try the S13 one (but a bit of 'terminal' adapting to do with that)

My box works really well, a big improvement over my knackered and wide ratio (early) 280ZX box.

Not sure what to do about a decent tunnel grommet, I have cobbled something up using both 240/S13 rubbers at the moment. I was amazed how much noise came through there.

[twoforty]

I'm about to do this swap too.....any tips? The box off my old red rusty Z is in mine for now and seems very smooth....it won't last long though.

[Nigel Brook]

Originally Posted by Zed2k

Hi all, I have fitted my S13/s30 gearbox but now have no speedo, what have you guys done? I just used the original drive and housing from the 240z box but looks like it's not getting driven?
Also which reverse light switch did you use?( as lamps now stay on)
Box is smooth need to fabricate a good gearstick boot now big draft!!
Thanks

If I remember rightly the speedo drive is offset inside the G/box so it is possible for it to be 180 degrees out, effectively giving you no drive.

[Rob Gaskin]

Originally Posted by Nigel Brook

If I remember rightly the speedo drive is offset inside the G/box so it is possible for it to be 180 degrees out, effectively giving you no drive.

Not sure what you mean Nigel. I just pushed mine in and locked it in place with the plate and screw.

[Nigel Brook]

I'll take mine out and photo it.

[Rob Gaskin]

[quote=twoforty;130599]I'm about to do this swap too.....any tips? quote]

Most of my info came off the Hybrid Z site. S Kiddell gave me the intitial motivation and guidance to do it (he also let me try his car). The job sounds more difficult that it really is, I wish I had done it when 'Black Bug' first mentioned it.

Something I've not seen mentioned is the two extra oil holes in the SX bellhousing. I assume these are to feed oil to the front of the bearings to avoid friction wear. On the Z box the bearing are open allowing oil to flow through, on the SX the bearings are sealed. When you have the SX box to bits you will see what I mean and also the machined oilway in the front cover to allow oil to flow in, past the two bearings and out.

Look at the pics and notice the sealed bearings of the SX box and the oil holes (one larger than the other). I drilled holes in my Z bellhousing to reproduce these.

Also the bigger gearlinkage housing on the SX box is very close to the fuel lines when in the Z.

And finally my propshaft has always been a tight fit when removing/replacing (I have to lever the antiroll bar out of the way by about 2mm. When I had my prop shortened by 50mm for the conversion I wish I had made that 52mm!

[Rob Gaskin]

My modified gearbox mounting, not pretty but it works. Basically you need the hole 3cm (I think) further back and you need to make sure the bit that's left clears the longer box.

[twoforty]

Excellent info Rob thanks very much!! Right now to find a scrap 200sx

[SKiddell]

Speedo drive
There appear to be several different variants of the drive units some require rotating, some dont, I did one a little while ago that needed rotating and a new slot for the locating tab filing, whilst others have required no modification at all.

Reverse switch
The selector rod grove that activates the reverse light on a Z (71B box) is in a different position from the "new" grove on the 71C box, there are a several of ways around this,

1. Firtle with the switch and sometimes you can get it to work
2. Grind a new slot on the rod to mate with the reverse switch position (fit bell housing and use a slim marker pen through the hole, remove bell housing, then use a die grinder and a cone stone to make a small indent)
3. Drill and tap a new reverse switch hole in the Z housing (some 50 odd mm closer to the engine end of the housing I think) there is a site on the net that details this more, it was posted a few weeks ago.

Alterantively dont worry about a reverse light

Gear lever and gater
I used a stock gear gater with a larger hole cut on the top to fit around the B&M short shift, works ok but as the rubber is new it tends to "fight" quick shifting, it will be better when it has bed in, by then I will be fitting the sequential shifter (doh)

Propshafts
The ones I had made use a smaller tube diameter so clearance is less of an issue

[Nigel Brook]

Originally Posted by Rob Gaskin

Not sure what you mean Nigel. I just pushed mine in and locked it in place with the plate and screw.

Pics of drive from a zx box. You can see that the plastic drive gear is offset so depending on where the locking plate is on the SX box I'm assuming you could get it 180 degrees out.

[z-spec]

I have seen nobody mentioning about the inputshaft bearing bore , I had to machine the machine the inputshaft bearing bore and machining one of the selector rods

[Rob Gaskin]

Originally Posted by z-spec

I have seen nobody mentioning about the inputshaft bearing bore , I had to machine the machine the inputshaft bearing bore and machining one of the selector rods

Yes of course. That info is on the Hybrid Z site I just added a couple of bits and photos to add to that. Thanks for the pics.

[Rob Gaskin]

Propshafts
The ones I had made use a smaller tube diameter so clearance is less of an issue[/quote]

Steve I was referring to length not girth

[SKiddell]

Steve I was referring to length not girth

Strangely that phase seems to feature regularly throughout my life