View Full Version : Intorducing 'Gaijin'

16-12-2008, 12:41 PM
Calling all those interested,
Im building a zed in its final design scope.
General notes;
- Street car, Warrant Of Fitness/registration
- R34 Neo turbo engine, GT3040R, water/air intercooling etc
- Programmable ECU, traction control, ABS even?
- Complete R34 rear subframe, LSD, toe/camber adjustable, big brakes etc. Increase track 150mm+
- Large piston front struts, big brakes etc, adjustable roll centre,camber,more castor, increase track 140mm+
- Power steering
- Full cage, to front struts
- Full interior, sound deadening,music
- Plenty of custom mods
- 18x9.5" 265/35 rears etc.
- NO DODGY BODYKITs either !!
The car will not be the fastest, best looking, tidiest zed out there.
I understand that it can be considered 'butchering' to some.
But should be OK for a comment or even critique.
Progress is underway.
If the club is keen to see (about) weekly updates and pics, Im happy to oblige.
I can give some tech notes as to whats going on, why, and hassles to avoid if someone is to do something similar.

16-12-2008, 12:42 PM

Gajin will begin the photo posting and tech notes from here.
I hope I can provide the longest, most technically interesting forum for the zed people

I have been reviewing the Hugo 240z (see you tube vids, great rock too)
he has something similar, with numerous differences to fabrication, especially the rear subframe install.
I will note these differences as I go along.

The certain workshop has been great, professional, fast, calm, open to discuss good and bad ideas.
I am no longer available for any wrench turning myself with current medical issues.

I see this as a great thing for the project (=PROGRESS) and a poor thing for finances (vacuum cleaner).


Anyways, here it is after a RHD conversion, both rear quarters, outerwheel arches, floor repairs, dove tail, sills, ready for a stock L24 numbers matching, go-slow car. Completed in my garage over 18 months by author at nights, while misses was pregnant.
Time to get serious?

16-12-2008, 12:42 PM
Enter the incompleted
Pull out L24 powertrain
strap on the rear subframe to trailer
send the lot over to Herberts Fabrication in Auckland NZ.


Had done more work on the fairlady over the next while, but the workshop location and work pressures made spending time difficult.
Time to enlist help.


Is it wrong to sell the matching numbers drivetrain to anyone?
Hmmm, soul removed, check.


thanks to salty for the trailer use. To easy

16-12-2008, 12:43 PM
Getting ready for the shop
lovely light cars they are.
note macpherson stut rear, and not for much longer.
Hello double wishbone




16-12-2008, 12:44 PM
.....better dust of the welder....

Note the Battery cables
behind the seat? hmmmmmmm :oops:


16-12-2008, 12:44 PM
Here we have the goods being collected down South East of country.
2000 ER34 manual with 30kms on odo.
Hang on a mo, its missing parts...
- No turbo or manifold
- No clutch

Everything else is here, ECU, loom, all the brakes and subframes front and rear.

Just what can I fit into a '73 S30 chassis?

Time to find out.
Lets get this lot cleaned up, and up to Auckland.




I most like the independant wheel speed sensors on the outer
diff axles. Hello traction control


16-12-2008, 12:45 PM
More organs.

Gbox looks a little more beefy than the stock S30 4 spd. Plenty of external castings protruding out. Apparently handles big HP. Lucky me eh.
The ex-owner of this lot, a freindly civil contractor down in the bay, had stripped a perfectly nice er34 to turn into a show car, but perhaps the finances are better spent firing bullets at stags.....good man, and thanks again Vinny.

Being the last generation of RB25's, it is different to the R33 S1 & 2 engines, because of the use of solid lifters in the head, different injectors sizes and set-up, variable intake valve timing, and a higher CFM & more efficient turbo, with a tidy 280ps flywheel factory. Its still a cast iron block, ally head big beast mind. The classic part of the er34 r25 turbo engine updates, is that the engine (standard) is a LOW EMMISION VEHICLE : LEV. This wont be no Prius however.


16-12-2008, 12:45 PM
A delightful, rebuilt and ready to wimper L24 stocker/4 spd.
Now sold on. Bye bye says the butcher.
Check out the giant spacers that used to be part of Motorsport Autos 17" Koenig wheel set.


Couldve flashed up the L24 and go EFI/turbo with it. Hmmm

16-12-2008, 12:46 PM
Dreaming of a working zed, you better believe it.
Check out the initials carved into the doors bog.
I love old cars, you get so much more than you pay for...



Man, these cars are small

16-12-2008, 12:47 PM
Lets get into it.
Breif to Mark Herbert:

- Get the rear subframe into the S30 chassis.
- Keep it low profile
- Not worried about cutting up gaurds
- Is it finished already? haha

- To fit in 18 x 9.5" wheels, standard er34 offset for size, 265/35/18.

Once the rear is in, we agreed to discuss progress, make sure client/fabricator get on OK, and see if we continue working.
Fair to me.


- Sans tire, looks OK. Subframe located, but no welding just yet. Clearance checks seem OK.


- Mark holding wheel at the approximate ride height, ie. includes sag. We will look at gaurd mods later, ignore the lack of room. Will be around 120mm clearnace from chassis underside to road. PLENTY (100mm is minimum legal clearance in NZ)


- Rear profile. Subframe not modified, ie. standard width. Circa +160mm total. I like the new width/track, lets forget about shortening this beast, would be a crying shame, just think of the lat. acceleration capacity...feeeeel the 'gs. HICAS gone using peice of ebay '**** welded' steel bar.

16-12-2008, 12:47 PM
So, Gaijin, how on earth are those 265's going to turn in anger with a little smokey bakerlite/ceramic hairdrier with dissapointingly frugal injectors?

Let me see..we need response to keep up with these youngsters in Evo's & rex's, yet have top end to satisfy....surely turbos dont do both?

Enter 3082R, aka GT3040R. Perhaps a little small on the turbine wheel/housing for drag, but should be spot on for club racing. This can be updated easily to a 3582R aka GT3540R, which would turn the stock internally RB25 into bent rods and the rest. Best stay small to start, go bigger later, if its too slow.


0.82 ar exhaust, standard front.

16-12-2008, 12:48 PM
Big nose checking out the extra track.
Sure makes the diff seem small.

Most of the rear end stays standard for now.

Changes planned include;
-Hicas lock - installed in blue.
-Camber links - require-rewelding due to poor welding from China? Taiwan? Dunno. Xray man said go away, even before getting the test equipment out. Grind back and TIG again. This should be part of a purchase agreement - a healthy xray report.
-Freshen standard brakes
Tires are Trademe/ebay specials 265/35/18


16-12-2008, 12:48 PM
Strut assembly not where it should be,
Original strut way too long to fit, requires an off the shelf Koni/Bilstien unit or something cheaper.

Camber link also not in



Diff centre is the stock helical LSD. A half decent factory LSD

16-12-2008, 12:49 PM
Using the z31 turbo 5 stud front hub in steel,
8.5" wide wheel
stock er34 disc and calliper
- Fitment looks ok, clearance all good
- Very heavy! Reducing unsprung and rotating weight should be my target.
Going light with disc and hat, aftermarket calliper and alloy hub will make a great improvement for the money
Lets start looking...


16-12-2008, 12:50 PM
Go Neo!

For a light weight daily driver, a turbo with response is desirable. GT3082R 0.82 AR exhaust housing, gt exit, external gate, dual cartridge ball bearing. Cant say too much about the ex manifold, apart from it costing a few hundred slides.
It might even fit into the engine bay...
Intake manifold will have to go
nice Fan cough cough


16-12-2008, 12:50 PM
Spec is for a basic cage suitable for light track use, kept tight to lining, mild steel.
Will tie into front strut towers once car is further setup, and sitting on a flat table to check chassis is 'straight', which will be pretty unlikely.
Rear bar across luggage dept. ties the rear subframe mounts together with something more than panel steel. Pickups behind the seat area ties the front mounts for the subframe.
Looks like just a few fires have started with the welding. Keep the heart racin'



16-12-2008, 12:51 PM
In these times of recesion, there is no better pick me up than painting everything in gold.
er, maybe not.

Drivetrain stripped of all ancillaries ready to slot into place.

Cross member has the pretty average camber adjustment from old, inner wishbone adjustable point.

Note engine mounts completed, using stock rubber. Will give movement, but will also be good for NVH reduction. Too many fillings in the mouth to rattle out. Wish they were gold...



16-12-2008, 12:51 PM
Manifold choices are OK on the market, with short list including;
- standard across the top (works fine)
- chinese greddy copy ($, casting issues, % of rejects high)
- Greddy ($$ , no bellmouths, hard to source 2nd hand or killer deal)
- Aussie fabricated stuff ($$$, too many $ for the gain)
- JP and Thai ($$, bellmouths, quality looks OK, deals available) Decided then!

80mm TB (attempt to keep intake velocity up, better response)
SARD fuel rail (has 11mm injector holes, while manifold has 13mm. May need to open up rail diameter)

General clearance OK, TB tightish to inner wheel arch.

Anodizing is garish.

Note engine position against firewall, nice'n'tight. 15mm odd clearance there. Also the height of engine relative to bonnet catch, with the oil pan off the JDM 200zr making life easy to drop it low.

Compressor housing getting jiggy with the cam cover, will scallop out cam cover then


16-12-2008, 12:52 PM
Exhaust is prepped.
I like the smooth 3" mandrel main.
Wastegate is Tial 38mm (maybe big enough, if the boost is set nice'n'high)
Position of wastegate pipe exiting manifold useless (lowest pipe in pic), with exhaust gas having to do a 180 deg. turn to exit. Hello boost creep. Will change this to improve flow to 'gate. One downfall of the 200 slide chinese unit.


Arizona Z Car aluminium radiator, non cross flow, pipes not in the right place either, lucky the xchange rate is still OK then! Bolts up to stock mounts, but this is sans rubber mounts, which would ensure the ally welds would fail quickly. Time to apply mods to radiator then. People talk about the weight savings of ally radiators. Maths do not look good! ($/kg). Cheaper to ditch the passenger.


16-12-2008, 12:52 PM
Position of wastegate pipe exiting manifold useless (lowest pipe in pic), with exhaust gas having to do a 180 deg. turn to exit. Hello boost creep. Will change this to improve flow to 'gate. One downfall of the 200 slide chinese unit.


16-12-2008, 12:53 PM
Well, about time to tease those of you running carbs. (I will regret saying this)

- Turbo, exhaust,gate,water intercooler,radiator into position.
Pipework has more work to clear tight spots here and there.

Modified TB location on intake manifold, to clear inner gaurd. TB running 80 degree to usual install method.



Heat exchanger out front of radiator, pumped by bosch intercooler water pump (controlled by ECU)

My deadline for road going widow maker is late Jan, for a family wedding, and of course in Feb, for a (NZ) Z club Taupo track day, to gently roll around the track whilst smoking a cigar (probably not legal now).


Front end slowly coming together.
Arizona z car struts, camber tops, 70mm longer bottoms arms, lengthened and adjustable tension rods, 5 stud ally hubs, ally disc hat, heavy duty rotors (more cooling vanes, thicker meat) of around 12.4" ish rotors, 4 pot wilwoods, ally mount.
Roll bar and steering linkage needs sorting.

Power steering now in and done, MR2 rack. This is a toyo-ta type.

Found some ZG flares that will fit, extra wide front and rear. Thanks for the pics.


Secret fuel system hidden in back, bosch 700hp efi pump, lift pump, filters, tank increased in size (modified original to increase fuel vol, and house a surge tank), and it all looks completly stock. Beauty.

16-12-2008, 12:53 PM
checking out the exisiting front brake options, it started with the stock er34 (same as s14/15 r32/33/34 sumitomo 4 piston)


But Herberts had a neat looking disc and hat available cheap, which would mount to 4 stud s30 stock hub, using stock sumitomo's. Solid mounted hat to rotor.

But Id wanted a bigger disc, with an ally 5 stud hub, which was not gonna work as a combo, without breaking out the mill again
The disc was light for sure though. Club member may be keen?



But the Arizona Z car stuff, was the ticket. Bolts together, US/NZ rate at $0.87US, it would be very hard to beat it for the $ outlay. Probably too easy now.
Hat-rotor still solid mount, not floating. I Overspeced the rotor to HD, increasing the rotor thickness and number of internal cooling vanes. Increase heat soak potential.

- cage fully welded up now, and completed.



- car a roller, can push between the workshop and the bank manager.
- Neil Fraser has viewed the car, and more than happy with the efforts, with regard to engineering certification.

- Front end has steering arms attached, thanks to the donor skyline for compatibility (with steering arms)

- Front anitroll bar mocked up, will be sent away for manufacturing, two settings, forged ends.

- Camber plates re-made, to REDUCE the -ve camber from the lower arm lengthening (70mm+ each side)

- Camber plates pushed out to the max, without chopping up to much of the outer strut tower. Requires a beating to stop springs rubbin'

- Lower arms and steering arms are close to parallel, and are around horizontal at ride height. ie. -ve camber change on bump only.
Can make up some of these 'bump steer' spacers, but these would change the bump/camber change characteristics (for the better), and make the bump/steer worse. Steering arm - knuckle would require lowering to improve. Something to look at later, once susprog3D is up and running. Or more like I can be bothered, lazy git.
Car is being removed from Herberts Fabrication within a fortnight, for the next phase of works - or a break maybe.

Have asked Roland Miester (Pi Research/Development Pectel Manager) for sponsorship for the SQ6M Pi ECU for the car. A very cool and beefy ECU, dual motorolla processors, data logging, internal memory, fly by wire, traction control, and run dual lambda sensors for quick learning....go the UK!
Perhaps more plugs will see some results? Go Roly! Perhaps an opportunity for Pi to expand into the aftermarket ECU industry? Their usual fare is F1, V8 super's, WRC etc.

Super BAMF ZG flares are manufactured and on their way from the States (+1" wider at the front, 1.5" wider rear, than the standard ZGs seen out there)

- Better hurry up if Im going to make the Feb NZ Taupo track day eh?


The sustanability complex left over.
Avoid $1 reserve auctions for this stuff, what a waste of time packing it up for nothing...

16-12-2008, 12:54 PM
Look forward to the next phase of works, whenever they start.

The mock build up, before the panel beaters.

Overall, I have been happy with Herberts with the work they have done. Quick and good quality.



16-12-2008, 12:55 PM
Finally getting closer to obtaining some JDM wide spec zg flares.
This guy is doing moulds, producing in f.glass and carbon fibre.
Rears are 1.5" wider, front 1" wider.

This should easily take care of wrapping up my wheels, and possibly leave some room for a spacer, increasing the track more.
Surely going more square on the wheelbase/track ratio wont help doing 720's on the motorway?
Go-kart handling for sure.
On a random point, ZGs were designed for an arcing movement of a Mcpherson strut, hence the angular shape.
The rears flares may need the extra width to take into account a relatively more up/down suspension movement (or certainley less camber change on bump)
We will see soon.

AsJustin makes these flares, there have been holds ups to say the least. A small timer doing it from home to start with, but they are getting out to customers, slowly but surely. Good on you Justin, famous for fat flares.

16-12-2008, 12:55 PM
The beast is out in the light, ready for the next round.
Mock build before the panelworks.

All wheels/tires stick outta gaurds.
Nice n low

Happy with that.
Tires are the same size as Porsche GT3 cup cars, great 2nd hand deals.
They are hard as rock, but for a 6 pack each, who cares.
More grip than any semi slick new.

16-12-2008, 12:56 PM
Its been a little slow, and I have no excuses. (Crays on Barrier...)
Front spoiler from Japan, fibreglass, and of poor quality and finish. Leave this one to the panelbeater.

Standard grill in, and attempting to figure out what the best setup and positions for the heat exchanger for the water/air cooler, and the radiator, thermo fans, powersteer cooling, and even the aircon heat exchanger. Not much then!


Originally had a HUGE filthy air-air, 600mm x 400mm x 125mm thick peice of drag racing ridiculous-ness, but wanted throttle response and quick spool up, and stealth looks as priorities.


Considering the intercooler sits behind the radiator (where the stock one lives), with around 40mm gap to allow some airflow through, the will be a redution in efficiency of the radiator. The heat exchanger for the cooler should sit in front of the radiator (similar to air-air). To compensate, Ill get some fans on the front of the radiator.

The problems with cooling will eventuate when;
- Im stuck in auckland traffic, no airflow, fans going hard. But, there will be little or no heat generated by the engine (above that of a standard Rb25). Probably will be fine.
- Going around a racetrack with lots of WOT, heat generated galore (circa proportional to power output), fans going, etc. This is where the problem will arise, if it does.


Anyway, enough ******* around, lets bolt the things in.

Clutch lines in, working. Nismo light flywheel and supercopper mix non sprung clutch plate, with HD pressure plate ready. Unsprung? Maybe too ugly for street. May even slip under the final grunt value. We will see.

Front arms xrayd OK, they are painted and to go back in.


Rear subframe out for once over before final install.


Spreadsheeting the brake setup to ensure the system will work well. Measure everything, chuck into spread, check outputs. Make changes. I will detail this further once completed.

SARD fuel rail supplied for er34, has different diameter injector holes than standard, so will require drilling out.

Headlight buckets, right one used in 10/10 nick from Japan, left one NEW from japan. They cost around $80 each. Import Monster. Exchange rate a little sore now, not as effective as it was. Cool parts available if you can decipher the 'engrish' as the Monster calls it.

16-12-2008, 12:57 PM
.Been 'servicing' all the parts, so should go well once started.
Rear discs new, standard items. Drum handbrake cleaned up, shoes look fine.


Now everything is covered in the engineers/fabricators enemy, the tar underseal, and 'never dry' gloss black paint.
It does look kinda stock. Once a little dirt is thrown in.


Underneath shot with everything removed, hard to tell whats been played with, or as some perhaps older types would say, BUTCHERING


Lots of new grade 8 bolts, high tensile. Using te old stuff is silly, most threads are stripped, damaged, rusted, even with plating them, hydrogen embrittlement could be an issue with stressed fasteners.

16-12-2008, 12:58 PM
As parts slowly go back on the car, it feels great.
Any welding has been x-rayd, on rear camber arms, front arms etc.
After a quick blast, they hit the powder coaters in black for a durable finish.

The front heat exchanger gets a home finally. Rubber mounted in 2 -axis.
Large air filter gets a vertical mount, with a 4" pipe to link this week.


Front sway bar mounts get a toughen up, with a plate welded to two sides of the frame rail. After restoring/wrecking my previous Papua New Guinea S30 (sold new), I found out the deficiencies in the S30 chassis design.

More works happen this weekend. Sweet!

As my sparky has mentioned, 'you'll blow the engine' is believable. Look forward to taking a trip to vegas to talk with Rob to sort the RB30 and turbine package to make this old bird fly. Spend the money wisely grass hopper.......for now perhaps...

16-12-2008, 12:59 PM
After using a few spreadsheets to work out what master cylinder size I could run, I quickly discovered the amount of 'fudging' these calculators require.

It also showed me that attempting to use a single master for both front and rear circuits (and a proportioning valve for the rear) would be a poor solution.

Calling around, most people just said install and test. Z club members have given me some guidance. I have purchased a 3/4 for the front, and a 5/8 for the rear, and a wilwood balance bar for under the pedal, and raised the peadl ratio to 6:1.
This will be an un-assisted brake setup using two master cylinders and a balance bar to adjust the setup depending on raod or track use.

Attached is the spreadsheet calcs. I have worked backwards in some areas to acheive what looks like a solution, using some numbers which are very hard to accuratly determine.
I.e. co-efficient of friction for the pads-discs, and tires (which will change greatly from slicks to street tires etc).
The rest is straightforward-ish.

Wilwood superlight 4 pot fronts, er34 2 pot rears (same as almost all R series turbo rears, Z32's and 200sx's).
Discs as measured (taken as 2/3rd's the way up the pad contact face, not total outside radius)
COG height guessed
Wheelbase as standard
Max deceleration = race best effort

Otherwise, if it doesnt work, Ill swap masters (at $45 each, thats OK)
Balance bar = $90

Car into brake shop for new hard brake lines as we speak.

16-12-2008, 01:01 PM
To continue from the brake spreadsheet guesstimation;

- brake pedal ratio changed to 6:1, see the old small hole, and the new large cylinder welded in higher up, which will house the brake balance bar.


- twin masters (these are wilwoods, not the trusty trojans as first purchased). New plate brazed to the front of the exisitng firewall plate and an additional plate welded to the inside of the firewall for more rigidity. If this is insufficient, a brace can be added to the front of the masters later.


- wilwood superlight 4 pot front callipers. 18" wheels make the discs look small. From the spreadsheet (mostly car mass as dominant factor), they are overkill. The track will tell.


Have braided front hoses and rears ready.
Hard piping of brake lines as we speak, 'P' clipped to chassis.

Transmission tunnel Braided lines are for the fuel back and forth

16-12-2008, 01:02 PM
Right, more detail shots.

- Petrol tank. Standard unit modified. Pic has details. Welds have sealed tank. Will add POR15 type tank sealant internally. Carter lift pump pushes fuel through low pressure filter into surge tank. Not shown.
Then EFI bosch pump draws from surge tank, through high pressure filter to fuel rail up the braided lines. When the tank is in the car, it looks completely standard. Access through the existing spare tire wheel bay, with a flat cover over the top. No spare tire then.
So the surge tank is not connected to the main tank, and the extra vol is. Just testing...


- PS rack/cross member mods, in case your interested. Pic shows the mods, new mount for the bottom seat of the rack, a braced top mount, and a cut out for one of the PS lines. Rack is a Toyota MR2 job, so not exactly a limo turner. Similar car weights, so shouldnt be too over assisted, can change the PS pump revs through new pulley, will adjust this a little way.


- Rear tire/brakes completed. Rebuilt, new discs, calliper seals, hoses, project mu drift pads and plenty of BBQ black to hide the crud.
not exciting unless its making smoke...eh


16-12-2008, 01:02 PM
Some progress of late.

stock er34 injectors replaced with Bosch 550cc x 6, which will cover me for some way over 400hp's at the wheels, turbo/engine strength permitting.


Gaijin back from the brake hose crew, and it looks neat. Wilwood master cylinders have replaced the Trojans, only due to difficulty in finding the resevoirs for them. Groan.


Just for luxury sake, a rear proportioning valve position is included in the rear pipe line inside the cabin. Ignore the interior sound deadening, efforts from the past require restarting.

The engine bay completion continues...


16-12-2008, 01:03 PM
Totally unexciting long range shot of a now race ready weight passenger, and a car shell.
all these detailed pics, arent we building a car?

Showed my Misses the project recently, she had some concerns over the 'attitude' of the vehicle.
Suggested she show concern over the attitiude of the mad driving, little sympathy showing owner.


16-12-2008, 01:05 PM
rb26 N1 'style' water pump. Actually, its rubbish stock version.hmmmm

Should have gone and bought a Davies electric pump instead. Focus....

16-12-2008, 01:05 PM
Ricky, thanks for the shots, your S30 work looks exemplary as usual. The consumate proffesional!

Right then,

This is a boring post.

Firstly, with the plans for a daily driver, think about things I like in a car.
- Clean windscreen!

The squirters are from unknown jap donor car. 4 sprays.

Looking at gauge options, they are suprisingly few.
Autometer, usual fare, but are rather typical?
Autogauge, but unsure of longevity of them
Looked at plenty of American units, but they are oldschool, check out the Cyberdynes, WTF!
Would love some DEFI, but yikes, rather not sell the real daily driver to get 'em.

Need 2 5/8" for centre console, and 5" for dash.

Dash installed and cut outs made for the roll cage around the pillars.



Will look around some more before purchasing.


Hmmm whats going on here.
Decided to ditch a mechanical driven water pump and go electric. ECU will run this. Will gain hp's, more so when its not running at full effort.
Davies Craig 110lt/min arriving soon.
So will have 2 water pumps for sale, one being underdriven (new 'N1 type' one), using a larger pulley. Takers?

16-12-2008, 01:06 PM
Getting back onto the engine bay completion,

plenty of the fiddly bits to go.

Firstly, its biffed back in, the cam covers have been given a rub'n'polish and the coil cover some nasty never dry gloss black. Perfect then.

The new wastegate position (Tial 38mm - hopefully its big enough), which was changed from an underneath pick up on the ex manifold to a top position for flow reasons.
Had heard that boost creep would be gauranteed from some dyno tuners, on the same engine and similar turbo.
Moving it up means gas flow doesnt need to do a 180 to get to the gate, just an easy? 90 deg change. Bottom hole TIG'd up.

90 deg elbow welded to the comp housing outlet, clearance ok to ex man, but will require some heat sheilding to help intercooler do its job.

Comp housing clearance to bonnet?
Dunno yet, have tried and seemed ok, but once gaskets etc are all on it may start a rubbin'.

Oil catch can arrived after waiting a few MONTHS for it to turn up from kazakstan...hmmmm
Quality looks good though, solid, 2l capacity (right for track racing then according to Motorsport
NZ). This will also get hot, being on the , er, hot side. More heat reflection required then.
Squirter bottle pinched from a mates car, and chucked into the corner.

Well hello, the flares have just turned up, surely not from Kazakstan as well?
Better get over and do some trial fitments....finally!

16-12-2008, 01:06 PM
More engine bay stuff;

Got a GREX/Greddy oil filter re-locator from JP off Import Monster (which does cars, motorbikes, 2nd hand, vintage stuff etc, just recently, got a Z432 for sale with 85km, going for $135kAu - yeehaa, and a nice,clean ZG a snip at circa $80k au. The market sure lives on strong in JP.


NISMO clucth also a jp 2nd hand item, about half the weight of stock flyw.


Ill kill the water pump and blank this part off, pull the thermo out and run elec pump & controller.
Biff on a cam gear for the exh.?


Hello, f.glass 1" wider front zg flare, sitting rough.


This gaurds ok, but the other will be the bog sculpture. Rickys f.glass gaurds sure look tidy, especially that the arch is 75mm forward, great for big castor angles....


and for the rear this what we got


Better get back in and finish this flare install , get mr suspension in to measure up.

16-12-2008, 01:07 PM
To gauge the clearance between ground/lowest parts, exhaust back up.
its a 3" SS mandrel tack TIGed into posi for now. Centre muffler lowest part but will sit about 30mm higher than as unsupported here mind




Rear Sus arms are shooting for the stars, thats enough bump

Cut away the lovely quarter I welded in a few years back, and some cables. oops


wheel in at max squish


(smaller temporary) cap screw the gaurds into place, and hey presto,

Full bump including er, bump stop


and at about ride height


and same


Can move this around a bit with coilover heights, but looks about right. Comments please

oh yeah, 125mm total vert wheel travel

16-12-2008, 01:08 PM
Getting exhausted,

another mention of the existing wastgate point, welded up.


Wastegate dump 38mm enters into main exhaust after 1 + metre. Gas flow less turbulant there = less back pressure = more power
The castor arm is a stock unit modified, using energy suspension bushes. I have some tougher alternatives for track. Better get them in then.



Keep it tight boss


could wrap it in heat wrap or get some coating on.


16-12-2008, 01:09 PM
Thought best to get some panels on to work out some colours for the car.

Got the right front gaurd roughly on, prob a little low. Steel gaurd will be sold, and a fibreglass one in place.

Chucked the spoiler on,



Rolled it back for a rough ride height = ok.


New bumper arriving from santa- thanks Mulderghini!


We sprayed up the gaurds in primer to get less contrast with Photoshopping when doing colour schemes. Or probably just my wobbly eyes.






cant ignore the left side.


Ive picked up a full nolathane bush kit for the rear including more adjustment opportunities, on all sus arms and subframe to chassis mounts. Sway bar adjustments also provided for.

Ill get these in once im out of bed.

16-12-2008, 01:10 PM
More nostalgia.

The mk 1 plans called for NA.

It was the L series build up, aside from the L24 stocker seen previously.

L28 stock insides, cleaned up, Mikunis 40PHH, ex manifold 6-2-1. elec ign. May have made 180 flywheel hp's.

Carb rebuild....gaijin would be quicker to build than those carbs.

But the sound !

Something a turbo will never acheive.

16-12-2008, 01:10 PM
Right then,

its been such a long time between posts, thought best to update the situation;

ER34 rear bushes from Noltec. Trademe have some reasonable prices for these. Frank De Jong is the contact, helpful, delivers for free too.

There is a few missing, kids eh.

Rear subframe bush ready for transplant.


Rear camber arms back in. Bought off trademe, for a sniff over $100, the welding was poor. Ground the welds back, re-tig'd them, and sent back to the Xrayer man for OK. Phew. Dont expect the stock ones to pass certs, WOF etc.


Only the sway bar to go back in, more or less. Oh yeah, struts as well. Ron Millan in today to measure up. Better lose that hand bud.


Big dog tailshaft hoop installed. Tailshaft by Beatties, spec'd for 700hp. Nothing re-used from old skyline, as itll be too weak for thrashing. Hoop required for certification.


Hard to see, but, handbrake mods to bracketry. Single cable to twin, made custom mount.


16-12-2008, 01:11 PM
Gettig back to the business end of the car;

Electric water pump arrived with controller.

Mounting under the intake manifold, probably.

Its the bigger 110l/hr, with fan on the back. Controller is micro-processor. Very 80's...
I jest, but it will be a good addition to the car. Turbo timer, whatever! Run the pump once the engine has stopped for a few minutes.
Good solid fast trips to the dairy then.





Enough of that for now,

10" fan fits ok. Will get two in there.


My pikes peak escudo sized K&N is too big to fit now intake pipe roughly done.
Ill play around with this later this week.
Ignore the coolant hose yah.




Grill aint looking too bad considering. Would prefer the Fairlady version, mesh style. Perhaps someone has a new/nice one in their garage they could sell to me?
swap, please, hello?



16-12-2008, 01:11 PM
Oil blow by 2 litre catch can in, with lovingly welded bracket.
Hoses attached and completed.




Shroud made for the rear of the radiator to intercooler.
It is structural, holding the cooler, along with a bottom support, all in ally.


Bosch cobra water pump for cooler sitting in its home. This is a stock order pump from USA, from a


GReddy type R BOV in its possible home.
Will recycle hot filthy air back into the turbo intake, for max response, and turbo spooling
The cooler is made of 3-4mm plate ally, so we can fit directly to this, with maybe only a little strengthening required.
and everything STILL fits under the stock bonnet...



Intake pipe nice n tight

The whole lot there is rubber mounted, so no cracking.
Wouldnt mind the JP style hundreds of welds style inlet pipe, using sections.


The car is out of here next week, so the clock is ticking!

Next mission, PANEL & PAINT

16-12-2008, 01:33 PM
Holy smokes. I only came on to check out if there were any updates and have been sat here reading this bad mo-fo for the last half hour. What an incredible first post! Welcome to the club mate. Dunno what else to say because I'm still in shock...

16-12-2008, 01:50 PM
Same here......I seen 44 new posts in the space of an hour, not seen that before.

Lovely project you have there, some incredible work being done, keep it up cant wait to see the finished article!
Oh and Welcome


Ian Patmore
16-12-2008, 02:08 PM
A simple hello would have done ;)

16-12-2008, 02:17 PM
when you get a bit of time could you give a bit of tech detail about this build. It seems a bit of a vague and rushed post without much thought for the reader.

Stunning job

16-12-2008, 03:50 PM
holy ****, nice build:eek::thumbs::eek:

16-12-2008, 04:28 PM
What a great thread, i didn't dare comment while it was all being written because i thought it was rude to break the flow :D lol

Great work buddy, looking forward to seeing progress on it :D

datsun dave
16-12-2008, 05:40 PM
Oh My God !!!!


Mr Ex
16-12-2008, 06:12 PM
Oh My God !!!!


It hasn't taken as long as yours Dave!:lol:

Tony 260Z
16-12-2008, 06:56 PM
Welcome..... and WOW!!!!

datsun dave
16-12-2008, 07:04 PM
It hasn't taken as long as yours Dave!:lol:

How do you know ?

Looks like somebody is building it for $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

16-12-2008, 07:20 PM
Looks like somebody is building it for $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

So $20 then? I know the pound is weak at the moment but that seems like a really sweet deal to me. Oh and this is my 1000th post. Woohoo!

16-12-2008, 07:30 PM
what the heck?? that car looks brill already. :thumbs:

16-12-2008, 10:15 PM
I love the rear suspension conversion, it gives me more ideas DOH!!!!! good job..

260Z TT
16-12-2008, 10:34 PM
What brilliant reading. Keep us all informed with new updates please!
Turbo S30's are now coming at us from all directions.
My L28 twin turbo was finished in 2003. Latest additions have been electric water pump and 6 pot Wilwoods from a Nascar!


16-12-2008, 11:16 PM
Firstly - Congrats and thanks to gaijin for posting this, great job. Some day I hope to be able to put as much attention to detail into my project as you have. Time and money are my constraints at the moment.

What brilliant reading. Keep us all informed with new updates please!
Turbo S30's are now coming at us from all directions.
My L28 twin turbo was finished in 2003. Latest additions have been electric water pump and 6 pot Wilwoods from a Nascar!


Mark I would love to hear more about your build. I have a copy of Feb 04's Jap Perfomance Mag that I have read a million times. :thumbs: I would like to go the twin turbo route some day. Would be awesome if you started a thread about yours.

16-12-2008, 11:30 PM
That is amazing still getting my jaw from thr floor the roll cage alone is ace before you get onto the porn that is that engine! Excellent keep it up matey!!!

17-12-2008, 05:51 AM
thanks guys, appreciate the support.

I have been a race engineer through europe, australia (v8 supers) and in NZ doing touring cars (pretty basic stuff) for 6 years.
This was after completing many 'blue collar' certs in fabrication, welding, auto engineering etc.

After some years, the brain wanted more, so
I completed a honours degree in mech engineering as a 'mature student'. In reality i was a dedicated drinker, like most poms.

That was a life ago!
Now with misses and kids, prof. engineering contracting company, and an architectural firm with a few staff, working on cars is a time gone by. I do miss it, but get my fix by working on my car.

Some of the work seen in these postings has been done by me, but most by the fabricator.
I have employed (after desperatly seeking) an exceptional fabricator, now friend ROB DOWE.
He is very young, and very talented. More so than myself, in regards to fabrication/welding.

However, every design detail is the clients, so to speak. sometimes its not the best! Rob is kind enough to let me down gently every now and then. thanks buddy

He is paid ok for this work, but FAR cheaper than usual, since I employ him directly.

The orange LHD car, first post, was when i bought the car 4 years ago.

The grey primered with red interior shots show the car after I had done a RHD conversion and heaps of rust repairs amongst others by myself at night in the garage, often found sleeping with a gearbox on my chest under the car at 2am....

The car went to the 'retail' price fabricators in maybe may this year, a few months after being diagnosed with cancer.

It has since returned with anger (the cancer that is people), and have been having chemo since march this year, and recently much stronger chemo with an experimental drug on the side, which often makes my 'engrish' seem so hard to comprehend, and also lacking in detail - sorry again.

It looks as tho my time is limited, so hence the car must finish soon, as it is so far past the point of no return, it is not funny.

Hence the HUGE reason why I am paying a genuine star, Rob, to finish my car, before I 'cash in my fork and spoon'.

I hope this explains why someone else is doing the car, and after building so many half decent professional race cars with my own hands, Ive given up and letting someone else dot it.

Probably the smartest thing Ive done in ages (apart from having the kids..)

Ps, where the project really started was when I bought a Datsun 1600 with FJ20 turbo, LSD, Haltech early 2Dfuel map ECU, painted matt black, when I was 17, tuning the ECU in the carport,installing intercoolers,BOVs, surge tanks etc, burning off flash cars around the flash part of town.
It got me kicked outta home, but the spirit never left !


thanks again.


Appreciate the great site, and great enthusistic forum efforts, and of course the car THE CARS, Daves RB looks dangerous..as other decent engine with two turbo's...more inspriration

Big ups to the Somerset crew, lived there for a few years in Taunton. Lovely ex-misses from uni days...

Charlie Boy
17-12-2008, 09:46 AM
Thank you very much for sharing your story with us! You have an amazing car there and I salute you for persisting with it and I'm sure you will have one of the best Z's in the world when itís finished soon.

All the best


17-12-2008, 09:53 AM
Attempting to decide on paint and external appearance is daunting really, easy to make or break the cars looks.
Here are some cars that take my eye, that may look similar in some ways to what we can produce.
In no specific order,
apologies already if links break
plenty of lovely s30's ive missed out on, cant post them all...sorry

Ive not got the gnose, so thats out for now.
New chrome front bumper.
2nd hand chrome rear, avg condition
Chrome or painted?

Flares 2 tone to body?
Out to take more high res pics tomo and the local photoshop expert tomo....
Also looks like one of santas elves has been identified as Mike Lucas (thanks Mike - hugely!). Will begin play with bonnet gas strut mod for the fibreglass lid arriving next week from
Wayne Croft, he makes them, along with other fibreglass goods for zeds, spoilers, gaurds etc. Christchuch based.

17-12-2008, 10:02 AM
Bottom 3 colours really do it for me. The dark red has a real 'muscle car' look to it. The silver looks really classy as does the white (the white with black alloys would look better though. You can have too much light on a car. Go with the JDM wing mirrors in black too. Wow!

datsun dave
17-12-2008, 10:05 AM
Daves RB looks dangerous

Thanks ;)

Can you tell us more/photos about the braking system on the bulkhead/pedal box mods.

17-12-2008, 10:07 AM
Good luck with the chemo buddy, my other half was diagnosed with terminal bone cancer last october and although things looked bleak and with her refusing chemo and taking steroids and 23 other tablets a day she amazingly made it through and the 3 dark lumps in her bone slowly disapeared and she's now living a normal (if slightly tired all the time) life with a future for us both to look forward to.

The car is stunning and it'll be worth every hour you've spent on it, it doesn't matter if someone else is helping finish it off or not it's your vision and when you finally see it the way it was meant to be done you'll love it :D

Good luck with the rest of the project :D

Charlie Boy
17-12-2008, 10:23 AM
I like the orange one but it's a very difficult colour to get right unless you go with the original 918 colour. I went silver and white with my Z's and sometimes think I should have gone a bit more crazy:D

17-12-2008, 10:49 AM
thanks guys for the thoughts.

Dave, I will post up the details on the brake calcs, how i came to the pedal mods, and mc works, lines etc.gimme a few days

datsun dave
17-12-2008, 12:56 PM
thanks guys for the thoughts.

Dave, I will post up the details on the brake calcs, how i came to the pedal mods, and mc works, lines etc.gimme a few days


Rob Gaskin
17-12-2008, 01:37 PM
Threads like this make me feel very humble when I see the fantastic work people do and the personal problems they cope with. It's inspiration for all of us, thanks.

Colour - I like the orange best, I had a Chrysler Avenger GT that colour years ago ('74). The red is too dark, the silver boring but the white is nice too.

I just love the very low 'stance' of your car, will you be able to run it like that do you think or will the tyres foul the arches etc?

Mr Ex
17-12-2008, 06:19 PM
I like the orange one best, & Martin think positive about the cancer it can be beaten. I was told 5 years ago that I had bowel cancer & yesterday they gave me the all clear after my recent scan, so think positive, all the best.

17-12-2008, 07:04 PM
what colour would you class that??

17-12-2008, 07:23 PM
Hard to tell in that light but it looks like a pale champagne colour. Makes the car look really low with that big g out front.

Mr Ex
17-12-2008, 07:40 PM
Hard to tell in that light but it looks like a pale champagne colour. Makes the car look really low with that big g out front.
I'd go for that colour or silver grey metalic.

17-12-2008, 09:42 PM
you,ve done a lovely job nice and neat and tidy but at the start you say that it took you 18 months to sort the bodywork and convert to rhd whilst your wife was pregnant ? did she have twins .

17-12-2008, 10:08 PM
I'd go for that colour or silver grey metalic.

Don't commit to any colours just yet Allan. pmac will be along soon to give the actual numbers and point out my lack of knowledge of the Z marque. My lordy.

Mr Ex
17-12-2008, 10:19 PM
I don't think THAT car is a standard colour, so pmac won't have a clue.:D

18-12-2008, 11:28 AM
The club in progress




Speaking about welds
3" SS pipe between resonators, middle of exhaust -ish


Tiller of HMS 'Gaijin'
Autogauge rev and smokey speed meter
3 - 6 other 60mm pending. 3 on dash, 3 mounted in glovebox behind the lid.


these didnt fit. Left one is not what I want, its r34, mine requires a R33 gtr for some reason as on the right. Eh?
Ron Millan getting all bushes into rear end, and shock manfacture. Top spherical mount, lower to rubber mount attachement on hub assembly.

With left over 4" ally intake pipe in hand, an intercooler top up tank, mounted higher than the rest of the coolant in the system. Get rid of some aeration issues -
Noticing the radiator connect only tack welded. handy




18-12-2008, 11:49 AM
First off,

brakes were sized firstly what I had as parts
like the arizona z car stuff, rear calliper size,
then thru spreadhseet, a bit of fudging,

outputs are
- change to pedal ratio from 4.7 (stock s30) to 6:1.

- This determines where on the firewall the new MC's will go, since the pivot point has moved up.

funny, heres something we penned onto the gaurd....
make of it what you will...

Other out put from spreadsheet is the MC sizes. Additional plate welded on to strengthen. can do the MC stopper idea and brace behind it, linked to strut tower later if theres issues.
No booster no more. GONE - alright <

18-12-2008, 12:07 PM
Is that a charge cooler system I spy, I used a charge cooler on my 500 bhp pulsar.

Everybody in the club kept telling me it wouldn't work or do the job properly but I found it very good indeed, The only problem I found was that at the high 2 bar boost level I was using that you could only really get one long blast out of it before the temps got a bit to hot, I bought but never got around to fitting a top of the range water/methanol multi point injection system from ERL, Which would of controlled those temps OK, Shame I never tried it out.

Good luck with the project mate it's looking great.


18-12-2008, 12:21 PM

yeah charge cooler should go ok, the exchanger out front is big enough for plenty of heat soak.

I made my own water/meth inj system on a r33 25t skyline, i found that you could run higher 3-4lb boost pressures, before detonation occured, lowered intake temps, even made the turbo shut up, the whitle tooting peice of $%^.
But it made the car a bit quicker, all fun. used a top quality brass irrigation nozzle, main part of system cost really, 1um droplet size, TINY = more surface area, yaya

really been into old school efi engine tuning stuff, so much fun

18-12-2008, 12:26 PM
For the time being I'm planning on sticking with a 2.8lt N/A engine on triple carbs, But once the cars all finished and I'm happy with the set up I may look at other engine options but I don't want to go to mad lol, Your's is going to be fantastic but personally I've had enough of turbo/efi systems to last me a long while lol.


19-12-2008, 11:29 AM
Also looks like one of santas elves has been identified as Mike Lucas (thanks Mike - hugely!).

Just a quick mention from me here too. Mike Lucas in NZ has been a great help to me and some other friends too. Top man, and a real gent to boot.

19-12-2008, 12:55 PM
Holy Cow

I had a lesson at 12, just sat here reading through this and then looked at teh time, guess I wont make that lesson, damn. Amazing job, project, dream. Oh and welcom to the club. Brilliant Idea, updating a wonderfull classic with present day mechanicals. Truely inspireing, but I wish santa gave me your bank ballance Ho Ho Ho

30-01-2009, 11:14 AM

Local USA old school


Road Race Rally Ltd.
Ron has helped me with shocks and bushes.


Bilsteins, revalved, 200+ lb (cant remember) springs, spherical bearing top mount, ajustable threaded collar height - so a show 'dumping' of the car another 70+mm - not safe for road use...






Ron also sweated out the old rear subframe bushes for harder types, two rear points have eccentric bolt for further camber change point. Bushes didnt come in plain non adjustable variety, and were economical.




30-01-2009, 01:49 PM
Looking fantastic when are you planning or hoping to get her on the road?

30-01-2009, 05:20 PM
frick me. how sexy is that red :drool:corvette?

03-02-2009, 07:23 AM
Plenty of work to go,

Electrical/ECU install
ECU Tuning and brake/suspension setup

more or less...perhaps not much considering the journey so far...


Tried the lock to lock with the steering using the MR2 PS rack. Looks like 2.8-ish turns of the 2nd hand Momo wheel purchased off Ebay.au a while back. I will measure up the angles of the wheel at full lock, something the drift crowd increase for greater tail out action.



More recently, after a chat with Ricky Cooper (races a nice L series NA 240z in Auckland), I was keen to have a look at some fibreglass parts for Gaijin for the two usual reasons;

- lose some easy pounds
- save money at the panel beater

but also picked up the great feature of (in the case of the front gaurds) moving the arch 75mm further forward, which will allow much greater castor angles.
This will give me more camber thru steering change, and a greater self centering effect with the steering.
V8 supercar will run 8 deg+ roughly (did 8 years ago when I turned the spanners for Team Kiwi).

The current castor arms may not be long enough for this, but this is an easy cut/remake/TIG up operation.

Current rough install position a little way out.
Also picked up a bonnet, which is a light (for glass) unit, covers the inspection panel, has mounts included.

Headlight buckets are moulded into the gaurd, metal originals are on Trademe. Overseas shipping not a worry

Also check my other listings for more S30 bits (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=200539995)




PM me for manufacturer of these fibreglass parts inc. bonnet and other body parts.

03-02-2009, 10:49 AM
Great work, looks like it's really coming on there :D Can't wait to see it finished!

03-02-2009, 05:09 PM
Wow. The standard car weighs under a tonne. With the diet you're putting this car on it'd be bloody quick with any lump up front. This is gonna rule!

Mr Ex
03-02-2009, 07:56 PM
It's coming along nicely' it's looking great.

04-02-2009, 09:13 AM
A pity that she won't be at Taupo. :(

04-02-2009, 09:19 AM
Yeah agree, will see track time soon

04-02-2009, 09:46 AM
Yeah agree, will see track time soon
Plenty of open days, just not quite the same as zooming round the track with a bunch of Zeds. 2010 has your name written all over it. :thumbs:

04-02-2009, 11:32 AM
hey thanks for the support imogen, appreciate it. totally agree with the track day for the Z club NZ, it will happen for sure, rain or shine.

06-02-2009, 02:23 AM
totally agree with the track day for the Z club NZ, it will happen for sure, rain or shine.
We're just looking forward to seeing it on the road, so forgive us, we have an ulterior motive. :rofl: :p

It's getting to the point that so many are buying Z cars and parting them, then squashing the remainder, that it's really important to save another one. :thumbs:

Another year, unless the next major track day is sooner, it shall grace the track with all the other Zeds. Fingers crossed. :thumbs:

13-02-2009, 09:32 AM
Anyways, after so much toying around, its time the car started going hammer and tongs with the hammer and dollys. Picked up thanks to John.


13-02-2009, 09:45 PM
can't wait to see finished product. :D

13-02-2009, 11:09 PM
nice wheels !!!
what colour are you painting it ??

17-02-2009, 11:00 AM
No firm decisions for anything colour wise, maybe grey(s)?

Wheels to change colour from black, bronze?


the car sits at the next venue, on the outskirts of Auckland where the panel beatin' rates are much less than the usual joints, not to mention their outstanding skills with sheet metal, raging enthusiasim etc etc.

Remembered why I waited for ages to get the car in (mostly my fault), once I walked back in with the car, top crew from first and second impressions. Enjoyed checking out the other classics? and reviewing their butt welding, no added rod/metal. = little to no body filler used.

Lets see what they can manage with this old girl

The fuel rail didnt fit the standard er34 squirters in, so holes machined out, and new collars made to suit the new bosch 6 hole 600cc injectors
er34 squirters sold on, good time for a quick + (****) pic.


A few oldies also hanging about.
Looks like lots of $ spent on these.




Front gaurds dont have any internal support nearest the door. There is still the existing panel closer to the front wheel.
Once together & bolted on we can see if its too flimsy.


17-02-2009, 12:16 PM
Looking great there buddy, keep up the good work and enjoying the updates as always :D

18-02-2009, 10:27 AM

There aint no panel beatin' starting until the cars ride height is set front and rear.

As a requriement for the street, min. 100mm clearance is required.

This was my starter, front and rear lowest parts hanging off the car.

Rear oval superflow type muffler looks ok. Sure takes up some height....



Take the rear struts out, RR tire sitting on the roughly cut gaurd.
LR doing same to stock inner gaurd.


Clearance about right.


Heaps of suspension geometry going on.


Note the wee chop into the chassis to ensure max lowering efforts, and no chassis hitting suspension parts.


Take into account sag and we have penty of suspension travel available.
better remember the dimensions next time....

speaking of a travel limiting device,

Rear struts, B4.s revalved with 300lb spring


For the front, oilpan the lowest (ergh, this wont last long , better thing about a gaurd/sheild?).

Wound the front up, using the full strut section moving out of the strut housing, keeping the overall travel the same.

I finished with 110mm ground clearance to the under side of the oil pans lowest point.
Sus arms are horizontal roughly eyeing.


To sort the castor situ with wheel lagging in the gaurd space, dug these japanese castor arms/tension rod from Import monster a while back, when it was affordable with rates.
Nice quality stuff, plenty of beef.


They offer a little more total length than the modified stocker.




It still isnt enough. Will get the stock modd'd ones lengthened again.

Wheel further forward, but lets keep going.

It would probably be prudent to get a hold of a castor/camber gauge, would make life easier.




a change of face?

frog face


18-02-2009, 11:28 AM
Coming on great mate, When do you expect to have her running and on the road?
All the best keep the pics coming love reading about 'Gaijin'

18-02-2009, 11:33 AM
as soon aspossible, many factors involved as almost anyone here knows...

19-02-2009, 10:18 PM
Wow wow, love the wheels, and the tyres ;)

I feel inspired to pull my finger out now, I hope you don't have speed humps over there lol ;) Keep us up to date with your progress for sure, S30s are so pretty it's all car porn to me.

20-02-2009, 07:03 AM
Cher mate, all good. Wheels in bronze?, yeah yeah

Finger out all good too ha ha

Its got a face finally







Its all stock I promise. Cut and paste exercise required, as gaurd is 75mm north, Gnose outta place. Red line is average effort to show where the cuts are.

Cut bumper out and move forward to keep the same distance to the over-fenders as a stock zg front.
Cut the lower section of the gnose to form to new gaurd
Cut the newf.glass headlight cones out, blend with gnose headlight thingies. Butcher!
Make a re-inforcement to the chopped gaurd to mount to gnose around the headlight areas.

Make it all look factory fresh and un-molested?
Hope the hammer/dolliers are more skilled than this jpg editer.....


20-02-2009, 09:57 AM
Once that front end's on with the wings it'll be tantalisingly close to looking finished, good effort mate :D

20-02-2009, 02:43 PM
Yeah keep cracking, looking good! Nice to see something track looking in build now with a gnose [style] bumper :)

Mr Ex
20-02-2009, 07:53 PM
Yes it's taking shape now keep it going.

18-03-2009, 11:54 AM
My day job has stepped up so the car has been lonely.
better post something - keep the thread alive eh...

Mike again comes to the rescue for the new light covers. They are mint. Perfect.
Let the panelbeater make them fit nice.



Blame the truck body for taking time - worked on by the customer, then brougt back to the shop, jumping the queue.


Never mind. Once the truck cab is out, Im up.




18-03-2009, 12:59 PM
Looking good!!

And I like the truck (sorry!) :)

19-03-2009, 09:33 AM
Lets check my 'off the cuff' front spring rate choice last year.....
Arm chair engineering

Motion ratio at the front is not far off standard, even with lengthened arms +50mm roughly.


Spring rate, as a function of motion ratio, corner weight and desired suspension frequency.

Could back up this pile of gobbledegook by pulling out the strut inserts and measuring the natural frequency doing the bounce test. This would include additions of bush and movement frictions. Google has the answers as usual.

Corner weights are guessing within a range, as is suspension frequency.

Looks like the current 250lb springs will be too SOFT, giving lower frequencies than desired.
Deny the mush

Harden up mate

Rob Gaskin
19-03-2009, 10:24 AM
Wow, all that maths!

I run 250lb on a track-day car, they may be ok for you to start with, nothing like trying them first. Perhaps your lack of wheel clearance may require stiffer springs though, not an ideal situation but I just love the 'stance' of your car.

As you get used to driving it you can increase spring rate as necessary. They are cheap and easy to change.

01-04-2009, 11:09 PM
Wow, all that maths!

I run 250lb on a track-day car, they may be ok for you to start with, nothing like trying them first. Perhaps your lack of wheel clearance may require stiffer springs though, not an ideal situation but I just love the 'stance' of your car.

As you get used to driving it you can increase spring rate as necessary. They are cheap and easy to change.

Yeah Rob,

its not as tho the balance of the universe has been thrown out just yet eh..
Once the car is back together we can do some weighing and see what each corner is holding up...
For street itll be low freq., for race/track higher.

At least I remembered the important stuff at Uni.:rolleyes:

02-05-2009, 03:01 AM
Pardon the delay, the panelman has begun some work.
Its been about 1.5 weeks work for 1.5 men roughly so far.
In no specific order.
Butt welded everywhere, minimal filler rod used - (oxy acetylene)
60% metal work complete.
Few holes to recover in places, otherwise Im happy.

Car was treated with Tectyl?, spray on goo stuff to help minimise rust , from new.
It looks like rust , on the inside of panels, but its just this tectyl stuff. OK?
Welder could tell, weld bead wouldnt look like that, welding to rust alright...already



Enough of the boring rusty 'looking' stuff,
Arches at the rear. Folded lip flat, and butt welded again, so that the inner arch comes flat. gives the tire more clearance. if the chassis hits (not gonna due to bumpstops etc) the tire wont be hit with a sharp edge of the gaurd. ie. no crazy high speed blowouts from this scenario.


One side of the (metal) car almost complete,


The rear end is looking 50% done.
Ill get the sparky to wire up a solenoid for the hatch release/lock.


Left side has started, but requires the fundamentals.
Nice section constructions around the pillar. Nice butt welding on the door.


My excuse for lateness, forgive me
Cancers, chemos, transplant and heart issues. Dedicated to the Datsun cause.


04-05-2009, 12:04 PM
Thats looking like its going to be awsome.

Realy sory to see your suffering with your health, hope it all pans out for you mate

04-05-2009, 12:29 PM
good luck with the treatment and the car :thumbs::thumbs:

Mr Ex
04-05-2009, 10:53 PM
Think posative about your health Gaijin, I beat bowel cancer so it can be done,
Oh, & the car's looking great.:thumbs:

04-05-2009, 11:09 PM
Fantastic work buddy :D

05-05-2009, 09:19 AM
Car is looking good, nice to see a tidy job being done and the arch work looks smart. Good luck with everything :)

09-05-2009, 04:14 AM
The panel beater fellow is a pushy ******, so its off for another epic drive to hand over parts that are requried to help work on the next areas.

Thanks to Glenn for the gaurds, these will help take moulds for the front end work which will start next week. After a quick review today, it looks like as much time as the tin work has taken. ie. Quite a bit....

Ill ecplain over the next few weeks.

Here's a better pic of something I mentioned a while back talking suspension,
If the rear end still feels too mushy with softer tires at the track, the hard bushes you see may get replaced - rose jointed, etc.


Indicator hole filled up. No warts here.

Hatch likewise with opening device.

Dove tail hatch area all done & sealed




Left hand side continues, almost there. Rear quarter replacement panel originally from Tabco, some USA outit. Not much went back on the car.


The front pillar needed a bit of love, so love applied.




Few other parts/areas furthered





31-05-2009, 01:19 PM
Almost forgot about this thing down south after 3 weeks off.
how very refreshing!

Last time I talked to me man John, he said "we'll finish the metal work, then I want bills paid"

Fair enough.
Either that or some of the 40k odd persons following these threads globally start sending their cars to this guy...virtually immediatly

Hence why the work finishes clearly where the metal stops.
On the outside at least.

Havent told him about a few minor things to chop later....

seat mounts, bonnet struts (eh Mike), holes Ive made in the engine bay etc etc.....

All good so far.

right side still ok, just needs the gas flap keyhole welded up


Note that window chrome & SS into position. Had to move a couple mounting holes for the rear quarter glass windows, as cage fouled chances of getting a screw in......unles your hooked up? Save it.









Few other issues at the rear.Did some costing of rear metal bar, take one dull but straight unit, de-chrome, weld up all exisitng holes and seams, straighten/smooth, re-chrome etc = $$$$


buy new glass bar and paint a colour
and sell old dull bar.

no contest. Plus minus many kgs, pity its the wrong end eh.

I can break many glass bar before asking for mr dull chrome back.
Chrome could always be thrown back on later if I have a spare wadss of cash.

This pic is to note. What is going on here. Surley a clean body cant be painted with a skin looking like the close up of the moons surface?

BEADBLAST approaching. A new step added to the build. Argh well....I might get back 1/20th of it upon sale price.....
Not me talking


Panle beating getting a flash boring, time to spice things up a little I reckon


31-05-2009, 01:40 PM
Keep the build photos coming Gaijin, loving it!

31-05-2009, 02:34 PM

31-05-2009, 08:59 PM
Great news and a great update as always :D Keep the good work up mate!

13-07-2009, 10:22 AM
anymore waiting and Ill have forgotten about this thing.

As mentioned, the chrome bumper has been axed in favour of a glass unit from japan. chopped for cheaper postage reasons. Still has bolts and seams molded into the glass version. Odd. They will be smoothed over.


Hard to see, but I borrowed Glenn MArtins front spare gaurds and copied the rearward support for the glass gaurds on mine, as they lacked sufficient support close to the door. Feels solid on the car now. The front wupport looks way out, but a little shaping and urethane will sort it.


I picked up a pair of racetech wide's in glass with Ally mounts from Mr Black in Chch, who has helped with a great price. Seats were fresh off the press and sent that day. They fit me well, but not the car well. We will remove all the exisiting seat mounts in the S30 chassis, and look to make a section of floor lower than the rest, so my head&helmet has clearance to the roof. Ill detail this next time. The steering wheel is close enough to me, probably not requiring movement rearward, or replacement with a dished wheel.
A sliding rail will sit below the alloy side mounts to give some fore/aft adjustment.






The front gaurds had no face to bolt the headlight buckets to, so a steel equivalent was made and joined to the gaurds, bogged over. This will allow me to run the stock lights, buckets, chrome rings for the factory look.



The gaurds are on and shaping work started. They need more work around the lower edges, but generally there.
What an effort tho, chopping up the steel units would have been easier. Need to move that front bumper edge away from the flare, its too close.







Inspection flaps cut back in. We had placed an oil filter and washer bottle accessible under them, so thought Id better get the flaps back in. Cut/place.
A new catch has been made - area in red in pic.




New old stock chrome S30 mirrors from Japan.



To avoid the bonnet pin **** look, aerocatch install planned. Since the bonnet has its structural rim on the underside that covers over where I was planning to put them, another catch will be made, similar to the inspection flaps closing mount. Thye are lockable, fit almost flush, and seem to look OK on other customs Ive looked at.


The front requires some 'air giudance equipment'. i.e. make sure we get sufficient airflow across the desired areas, its a pity the bonnet swings back into it all when opened....
The front inner part of the nose has been strengthened up, as it wasnt able to support itself in the right shape. The numberplate mounts will go.





07-08-2009, 10:40 AM
A mate came round and showed me what he's been doing in his spare time, over a beer and grub.

Its the intake pipe ( air filter to turbo intake) I wasnt 100% with, Im looking for the japan style many welds look. It would do very little to airflow vs pressure drop over the original 'digital' version, 45 degree angle styles.
Looks smooth, and is a mock up. Test fit it today and works ok. We might swing the air filter horizontal, rather than up/down, being the only change.







07-08-2009, 01:25 PM
Wow this project just gets better and better. I still think you'll finish yours before i finish the V8 though :D lol

Keep the updates coming buddy they're much appreciated

07-08-2009, 03:45 PM
Agreed. That seat is fab too!

07-08-2009, 04:26 PM
Hi Gaijin. Welcome to the club mate. Just got through reading the whole thread. I am in shock.Congradulations on a super build. Truely inspirational. I wish you well.

Mr Ex
07-08-2009, 11:09 PM
Keep up the good work, you are getting there.:thumbs:

09-08-2009, 12:20 PM
Hey, top trumps to the zedophile responders !

Zepophile responsiblities....


this looks shizen


this looks ok



10-08-2009, 01:29 AM
Let it be known that the reason that I went with the G-nose is that the misses reckons 'it looks classy' (compared to original front with spoiler). Keeping them involved!





Bonnet is on and some cutting and repositioning of the frame has been done. It needs more work to straighten up the shut lines.
Catches are next. G-nose hinges were part of the G-nose deal from Kapiti Mike. Hinges are single pivot, not double like the standard ones.







Areas to further tidy up;



Some fat to trim, under front guard;


Arches looking the part, kiwi style






some more stuff to chop out, all the tabs gone please.
Don't want a dirty numberplate hanging in the middle of my precious airflow.
Where will you go? Hmm...


Right side front arch to complete


Time to get more help to fast forward to/through the next stage.
- Rip out everything inside, dash,heater etc. Prepare for sandblasting the inside of the car smooth.
- Rip out all drive train and review engine bay. Require some re-work, old harness clips removed, holes filled etc.
- Cleanup of old colour paint around front wheel wells, some of it is flaking off after applying paint to tar under seal too soon.

Better dust of the overalls

01-09-2009, 04:02 PM
Not too bad, not too bad at all, ahh who am I kidding, I'm damn impressed, not that that really means anything, but top stuff,really top stuff.
You should be proud, esp since you are going through the cancer thing, hope all is going well with that, I'm looking to put the VH41/45 in my 240Z, still in the planning stages, but you have given many ideas!!!!!
Lookin forward to seeing this baby done!!!!!

01-09-2009, 05:21 PM
Fantastic fantastic fantastic! :D

Great stuff buddy, looks like you'll be almost done soon!

01-09-2009, 06:22 PM
Superb as always. Hope you can keep up the enthusiasm as this car is gonna look like a monster!

02-09-2009, 12:35 AM

I have just met with David Griffiths, who is the top Opera composer in New Zealand, who also loves Motorsport......he has performed at my house a few years back, but not for any car launch....it'd be a nice final video post to a completed car project

02-09-2009, 08:20 AM
Kiwi can do!! :thumbs: Perhaps this car is keeping you sane. ;)

24-09-2009, 04:10 AM
Sane? Hard to judge by the characters that surround me...

bullet proofing the headlight to gaurd area


bonnet shut lines looking better

attach gaurd to inner support, more bullet proofing. Imagine this dodgy body kit peeling off on the motorway....






Bonnet looking smooth to the rest now

to fix the gaps at the end of the flares, we had to break a few eggs to bake the cake

Bonnet catches in





welting in for the front gaurd, looks kinda overkill, might look at some smaller profile stuff


rear bumper in one peice and shaved of its lumps and bumps



the panelbeater has finished the body now, the seat mounting is left, and a quick beating of frame rails under the floors and we are painting.
I will probably pull the engine out soon and get the engine bay tidied, since its had a lot of work done around there.

Steve Dodson
24-09-2009, 09:19 AM
Coming along very nicely. Top job

24-09-2009, 06:42 PM
they have done a very good job ,this car will look fantastic when it is painted.

24-09-2009, 07:05 PM
What colour are you going for?

24-09-2009, 07:31 PM
Love it :bow: can't wait to see it finished.

29-09-2009, 01:21 PM
Just got back from my hols and straight on here to see what's been going on, great stuff buddy. Keep it coming, almost there now :D

30-09-2009, 03:52 AM
Thanks for the kind words, as for the colour, still no decisions.

Spent a few hours tidying up the inside of the car, removing the 'not that old' sound deadening and foam stuff, so that the sandblaster can do its thing soon.
Gives us a chan ce to fill the multitudes of holes throught the firewall, tunnell, floors that have been made, and many not required.




the next step for me is to get the engine and box out for a final fling at the engine bay, which requried some work, harness tabs, holes, weld splatter, its all there and needs to be sorted.


The stock seat mounts fouled the proposed seating rails, mounts and seat itself, so have been drilled out, leaving a smooth floor on the drivers side.
Im still sitting too high, so along the outside chassis section, there is a 45 degree angled floor section that joins the floor to the inner sill. The outside mount fouls this, so by dropping the 45, we can gain 3cm maybe. Ill try that, and if its not enough, the whole floor drops under the seat, to gain the head room for me - 191cm, + helmet, which is hitting the cage & hoop.

The handbrake also requires re-positioning, since the seats are wider than usual. On top of the tunnell, mounted further rearward will do fine. Could go for a floor mounted by the pedals, but a quick acting, accessible handbrake is important.



Bonnet catches are in, with mounts securely welded to the front cage bar. Catches are lockable, sit above bonnet just a touch, after a paint should blend in enough.






Now here is something that could kill the project....
I know there is talk of recession, even more recently talk of 0.1% growth in the economy.
Im betting for great growth in my business, so In this majikal plan of growth and earnings, Ill need somewhere to throw a portion of this wedge.




Dont stress, the car will continue as is, but with a small backroom project to gather necesary parts to make it happen later IF majikal plans come together.

30-09-2009, 11:08 AM
Excellent update as always, i didn't realise you were going for a full 4WD setup though! That thing's going to handle like nothing else :D

Mr Ex
30-09-2009, 10:05 PM
It's gonna be a mean beast.:thumbs::bow:

01-10-2009, 10:49 PM
Hmmm, if you are go 4x4 ,you have to drill new holes for the bolt to the sump? have done arb26dett conversion,and is thicker bolts on rb26dett sump ,and not same position .. but after seen all you have done,i think you sort that out :-) amazing work ,This tread i will keep my eyes on.!! :-) again amazing!!!

01-10-2009, 10:53 PM
If i remember corrrect ,if have seen a tvr some place on internett ,converted to full drivetrain from a nissan skyline gtr,they relocated the front diff .

sorry for my norwegian english ,but hope you understand me:o

28-03-2010, 09:47 PM
The next and last panelbeating stage is the small stuff.


Engine & box out to tidy up the engine bay






Help accepted from all arigato Miu


Work completed to lower the seat & rails, have suitable clearance for head height/helmet.
The cage has a lot to answer for here.
Where the inner sill and floor pan meet there is a 45 degree section to meet each other.
This is made perpendicular, dropping the seat maybe an inch, all vital gains for my swede



Issues still apparent,
- left elbow/funnybone rests on side intrusion bar of cage, this will become very annoying after a few metres drivin,
- suggest remove each side and notch, make a bend in the bar to clear elbows and reweld both sides of the car.
- Steering wheel too close to body, get a more narrow profile boss kit for steering wheel, easily done.

- handbrake needs to be relocated
- battery mounted low and rearward somewhere.






While we complete the final tin work, Ill take the time to drag a GTR box/transfer case down and see if the transfercase will clear the seat mounts/rails.

Looks tight.


Front glass work included making the nose section more rigid, keep some vague shape while at speed.



Playing with front diff position at home, now suitable for current engine position in the zed.





If I spread this lot around the bedroom, Id get the misses on board to complete the car....


28-03-2010, 10:07 PM
If I spread this lot around the bedroom, Id get the misses on board to complete the car....

It'll never work
Amongst others i've got a set of wheels in mine the mrs stil doesn't help :D

Excellent work :thumbs:

28-03-2010, 10:16 PM
Wow fantastic looking progress matey. Keep it up and look forward to next instalment as always.

Mr Ex
28-03-2010, 10:50 PM
It's looking great.:thumbs:

29-03-2010, 12:08 PM
This threads like opening a xmas present each time, cant wait to see it, although I dont want to be there when you bust it on teh track and have to fix all thoes custom fiberglass bits and bobs

10-04-2010, 09:18 AM
although I don't want to be there when you bust it on the track and have to fix all those custom fiberglass bits and bobs
Ssssh, don't even say things like that. [hands over eyes]

Only another 10 months until the big Zed track day get together here. :coolgleam: We're all hoping she'll be ready. :) Will be fantastic to have another ballistic beast on the track.

10-04-2010, 09:49 AM
Wow ... just simply Wow.

16-04-2010, 01:11 PM
Been a while since i checked up on this, great work buddy. Really enjoy seeing this car coming along :)

16-04-2010, 09:27 PM
Looking great, love checking in, keep us updated! I've seen one other 4wd s30 (that I'm aware of) in my internet travels and the guy (who came on here once or twice) had to widen the whole car to pull it off I thought!? lol

Bring on the next update :thumbs:

16-04-2010, 10:24 PM
Awesome. Sometimes a thread is just a treat to open. This car is gonna be something else. RB twin 4 wheel madness in a car that weighs around a tonne. If there was a God, he'd leap out now and go "Rrraaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!" whilst kicking someone's ass!

15-05-2010, 05:28 AM
Thanks for the support, "every time is like xmas" eh?

Ive been working hard with contract project work, and diong more renovations to the house to keep the misses happy, so hence the slower rate of xmas-es. Never fear, let 'project scope creep' be your greatest xmas.....

I have thought of seeing how this would go with large turbo RB30 with slicks on against a F1 car up to 120mph. But thats being silly. Simply ree-diculous.

So its another trip down to see the man John, and to run through what needs to be done.

Since Id rather have everything fitting as it should, he grabs the light covers back to fit them, make the holes etc.


Same goes with the mirrors, they need a backing plate under the gaurd to ensure they dont disappear at speed. Ill email him some side profiles of some zg's so he can put them where they should, all looks while little chance of them being of much use...


A battery should live some place at the rear end on the passenger side, mounted low. Ill bring the gas tank back down next weekend. Ill leave the XXXL battery box alone and place a smaller gel battery in there.


The seat still doesnt fit as well as it could. I cant move to a smaller seat due to me body shape, so its further choppin required. The sill area gets a full length step down from last time, and completed on both sides of the chassis. Ill also remove the seat runner on the drivers side to gain an inch, and make the seat position somewhat unadjustable. The seat brakets so allow different positions, but not easily done while in traffic..



Ill also make a right angle against the trans tunnel to gain a little more room, to also get the seat shoulder off the roll cage on the door side. There is a small indent to the tunnel at the rear of the seat mount, so cut it out!


Bloody seats! Who choose such a small chassis>?

Handbrake issues, bought a GTR handbrake for a few bucks, seems like a suitable option. Will sit on top of the tunnel, but dropped into the tunnel a touch so it doesnt sit too proud.


What is a half decent idea, is to see if a GTR box (R32) would fit into the chassis (if at any stage in the future I need my head read to progress with 4WD).

May as well do it now since its here.

Ya really feel this thing in the boot rolling around...



It may not fit due to the .....seats?
Lets do a rough check,


Itll be the inner seat bracket to transfer case being the issue? Maybe...er..


Hmmmm, looks kind of ok actually, the gods are smiling..
The white outline is roughly where an obtrusion would eminate from the tunnell, sitting under my knees, so there is plenty of room actually,


What about this driveshaft going to the repositioned front diff>?
Extend a small section of floorpan to accomodate,



So then, to mock fit this box in, Ill bring the RB26 dummy block down next weekend, and move forward with this trial fit.
There is not much destruction required, apart from cutting of the existing gbox mounts, but they can be rewelded on later when the RWD box goes in.
I may as well make the GTR one fit, itll be easier now than later.

27-05-2010, 10:58 AM
If your interested, this is the ATTESSA E-TS ECU and its wiring diagram.

Without understanding this, the chance of using the famous GTRs 4WD capacity and the data tables that are stored in this ECU (seperate from the engines ECU) will not happen.

Whats marked up in green is ok and managed by including these parts from the GTR (eg. G Force sensor) or from the 240z (eg. brake light signal).

Others to work out would be, range of throttle position in volts, and the engine speed signal.

Pluggin a meter into a R32 ECU (either E-TS or Engine) would have these values known.
Unsure if the engine speed signal would be sine or square wave at this stage.
Perhaps someone would let me gently poke a sensor probe into the input/output of either ECU from a R32?

Glenn Martin ?>


The ABS portion of the E-TS ECU would be ignored, as these are outputs only (assumption).
I could utilise this portion later If I wanted to add more weight and complexity to the car.

27-05-2010, 11:09 PM
So what would alll this complexity add?

Sure beats any fixed % TORQUE SPLIT.


28-05-2010, 01:30 AM

23-06-2010, 10:09 AM
Ive attempted to give the panel beater 2 weeks to complete the car from his end, to get some paint applied.

floor squaring off around trans tunnel,



What about a handbrake?



new frame, r33 gtr h.brake from parts bin,


in its home, looks snug, not too proud. Will chop up standard console to make this fit.


Make this exhaust clearance work better, and much bigger, to allow lots of heat sheilding, maybe a 4" exhaust in the future.


Rear bumper aint that straight, maybe look to support this wafer thin item


Engine bay getting there,




Mirrors looking the part




The ugly,




Remedy for this 'probably' the remainder of the fugly, will be the last bigger job of panel work, some much thicker steel box section from the front castor arms to the rear exisiting subframe.

This will allow;

- The floors to get way more support from this,
- Some flat floor to be attached aka undertray-ing,

- Give support to the driveshaft tail hoop (in case too much traction/power makes something snap) and also the seat mounts support. Phew.

23-06-2010, 10:10 AM
Ive attempted to give the panel beater 2 weeks to complete the car from his end, to get some paint applied.

floor squaring off around trans tunnel,



What about a handbrake?



new frame, r33 gtr h.brake from parts bin,


in its home, looks snug, not too proud. Will chop up standard console to make this fit.


Make this exhaust clearance work better, and much bigger, to allow lots of heat sheilding, maybe a 4" exhaust in the future.


Rear bumper aint that straight, maybe look to support this wafer thin item


Engine bay getting there,




Mirrors looking the part




The ugly,




Remedy for this 'probably' the remainder of the fugly, will be the last bigger job of panel work, some much thicker steel box section from the front castor arms to the rear exisiting subframe.

This will allow;

- The floors to get way more support from this,
- Some flat floor to be attached aka undertray-ing,

- Give support to the driveshaft tail hoop (in case too much traction/power makes something snap) and also the seat mounts support. Phew.

datsun dave
23-06-2010, 02:00 PM
Wow some great work going into the car how far off is it ?.

23-06-2010, 04:20 PM
Look great buddy, I want some of those mirrors for mine where did you get them ?.


23-06-2010, 04:46 PM
Look great buddy, I want some of those mirrors for mine where did you get them ?.


mirrors are from datsun 510.
eiji at datsun spirit.
e bay.com (usually a pair on sale)
or even mike mjp

26-06-2010, 10:18 AM
Wow, things are looking good.
Scott is the young chap working on the car currently, and he is doing a great job.

Its more fabrication now, not exactly smash repair.

The list of work still needed to be done has been agressively dealt to over several days.

Keep it up Scott.

Aluminium Mirror backing plates so they dont disappear first squeeze of the pedal.
You can wind up the spring tension to keep them holding on tighter.


Exhaust cut out looks spot on. Plenty of room for heat sheilding, perhaps a bigger exhaust later if needed.
Some intrusion into the passenger cabin space, thats fine.


Handbrake mount welded in.
Underside connection needs attention, was setup for the existing setup. Shorten the cable and modify the mount will sort this.


Little bits n peices sorted out, fill holes, cover old mistakes etc. Filled the bolt holes to the old bolt in cage that I bought of Mike, I still have this chromed half cage at home if anyone wants it. Dont want much for it. Its certed and looked great in the car.


Ruddy beutiful floor supports kind of more like frame rails from firewall to the existing rear diff mount. 1.6mm steel folded from sheet.
The frame protrudes into the cabin by maybe 5mm, and lower under the car by 30mm more then the old bits, which were more sad than that that vampire Robert Patinson.


Nothing better than this in the boot, RB26 block and a bottle of NOS.

Block $50 on auction site, a dummy block for fitting purposes, since it has some rather viscious damage to bores on several cylinders.


Chuck the GTR box onto the dummy block and we have our fitting kit ready to go in.
At this stage I will fit this kit in, but continue to complete the car in RWD format first. Probably.


BUT firstly,

Im dubious of the front frame rails being any good, actually, they are rubbish. One area under around the front crossmember is crushed somewhat. Better sort this now. To be made from 1.6mm sheet steel. We can make sure they will be level each side, making the cross member, suspension pickup[ point nice and level.


old rubbish coming out of the car; the magazine is for the vampire mad misses. I still dont get it, really.


Im feeling the love here, this is almost ready for colour.


Im hoping to get the car out from here in about 10 days or less, with current progress, this looks likely.
Its only been here for coming up a couple of YEARS............. :shock:

Most likely watchers will die of old age before these wheels ever turn

I scored my mirrors direct out of Japan using japan yahoo auction, shipped internally, then to me here. Cheapest option for me. Nice units.

Car finish date, no idea, really I dont. Too many variables, income, contracts, home life, health, luck, fate etc etc.

Mr Ex
26-06-2010, 06:29 PM
A lot of work has gone into it just like our datsun dave's car. It'll be worth it when it's finished.:bow:

datsun dave
26-06-2010, 08:16 PM
Some info about the brake master set up please.

28-06-2010, 02:44 PM
Wow, as per usual! :D

Great update again buddy, i love finding something new on this thread when i pop on.

I think at this rate you'll beat me to getting yours on the road!

Keep up the good work :)

29-06-2010, 02:20 AM
Seconded, although I also get the "I've really gotta pull my finger out" feeling each time, damn! :)

05-07-2010, 09:52 AM

we may be looking good here to keep to almost a two week wrap up.

It hits the sandblaster Monday, Painter Tuesday.
No paint colour chosen still. Ill drag the misses down, she is good with colour combos.

440CCA , 5.5kg battery. Grunty n light. But no good for playing the stereo outside the milkbar while doing some bird watching.
It is mounted behind the passenger seat, Motorsport NZ requires 4x8mm bolts. Will be strapped with some foam and a cover of some sort.


Roll cage to firewall holes filled using these hoops, cut with a slot, fitted and welded.


Make the bonnet catch shorter to fit the rough bonnet mount to keep the thing upright.
On this note, Mike I better get your gas strut unit back, this will work fine, while even my kids could lift it in place.


Main chassis rails were not really rusty inside, but were slightly crumpled, thinwalled steel, and detract from a moderate quailty package.
These may be 1.2mm steel thickness, rather weak.


Cut n removed, new sections in place, levelled to be straight each side, mounts for cross member the same, sway bar mount swapped from the existing rails, since they were modified and were strong and suitable for use.

These have been replaced each side, from the radiator support back to the replaced rails around the castor arm pickups.

For the people in the know, these rails will suit a RWD setup, not a 4WD one. Let it be heard, this car will be completed as version 1, RWD. To start.

Steel is 1.6mm, with additional gusset plates welded on thereafter, way stronger stuff.




Some good comparisons old/n/new chassis rails.


Under front gaurds should be heated and scrapped of old tar stuff and ready for sandblast smooth ready for paint.


Ready for lift off

Showed Dr Greg Taylor the recent updates, he seems impressed. He manages/funds the Kiwi Team Nurburgring every year, knows a thing or two about race cars. He has also helped me with car storage (for many years filling his barn full of precious Datsun cr*p), advice etc. He does reconstruction surgery, breat augmentation and general tidying up of body parts if your interested, or needing a bit of this help. Not one to need this help, give him a bell if you do.

Dr Taylor - The Dad inlaw (http://www.drgregtaylor.co.nz/)

Pity that his son Alistair needs some driving advice after righting off the Audi RS4 then setting fire to the thing at the 'ring

da ring burner (http://www.ktn.co.nz/)



Tired and ready for the pub now, checking out the Hawkes Bay this weekend, a great place.

12-07-2010, 10:23 PM
Finally rolled up to the painters.
He reckons 3 weeks to complete the job.
I dropped all the materials off, of which we have;
- bar coat - to join old paints with new in just a few areas,
- etch primer - to cover bare metal in just a few palces, front inner gaurds etc.
- high build primer - to cover all the outside, in prep for the colour after blocking some amount of times
- colour
- clear
- thinners
- hardeners
- masking tape
- etc
the sandblaster did a good job, and took him 36hrs from car entering shop to car being towed out.
he etch primed all the sanblasted areas 30 mins after completing the blast, letting it dry off overnight.



12-07-2010, 10:30 PM
Some info about the brake master set up please.

Dave, if you head back through the posts I have a excel spreadsheet which I attached as a working calc of how I came to specify the;
- master cylinder sizes
- pedal ratio

based on first principles.
i.e. COG, COM -centre of gravity/mass
tire/brake pad mu
pedal effort - how hard youd like to squeeze on the pedal at max decelaration
all the brake data, disc centre of effort radius, pad size, piston size etc etc.

Its not going to be exact, as some figures are ball park. Its easy to change MC sizes. Obviously running no booster as there is no need.
Using a rear proportioning valve is ****. I have a fitting for one, but adjusting/limiting the rear hydralic pressure is not the way to go.

The pedal pivot point is moved higher up the pedal from the pics, so more leverage (as no booster), run an adjustable brake balance bar (adjusts front/rear effort - this is much better solution than the rear proportioning valve), twin MCs, sweet as!

13-07-2010, 12:58 PM
Superb, absolutely brilliant as always! :D

Thanks for keeping us updated - looks like you're on the home stretch now!

19-07-2010, 09:12 AM
How does the song go!! "It's the final countdown"...........

We're all looking forward to seeing it finished and on the road. And to see what colour it will be. :)

22-07-2010, 09:36 AM
Baz called me and asked for more paint.

A good opportunity to check out the progress.

Upon arriving, my car was the only one there, they said I was an angel with my timing.

- perhaps a large hairy smelly one.

We are up to 1litre of caprithane for the roll cage,

4Litres of base colour, since I will paint all the underside, rear end, cabin etc.

Otherwise they have blocked back some of the panels and body a few times, so its starting to get a smooth skin.

Baz and Clint reckon they are on time to get it out in another 2 weeks.

The rear subframe needs to come out to spray the rear end of the car, covering over the tar based underseal.

They will apply some more modern based underseal that is sprayed on, before the colour goes on. This will help minimise stone chip damage underneath.

The wheels, those dodgy black n red stripe jobs, are to get their rubber removed, sanded up, and painted a single colour.

Then we can vote 'the money or the bags', or perhaps the lack of either.


















22-07-2010, 09:37 AM
How does the song go!! "It's the final countdown"...........

We're all looking forward to seeing it finished and on the road. And to see what colour it will be. :)

yeah, always a great 80s song that one, yeah !

22-07-2010, 11:17 AM
Superb (as always!). It's lush when a project gets finished and this sucker is nearly there. Simply can't wait!

04-09-2010, 02:20 PM
Poor Baz, he's been waiting for me

there is,

however a minor problem.

as per usual.

Engine bay.

We will gun another coat of clear to make good.

Without quesion, once I (sorry Baz) took the time to get the dust of (=1 box of Stella), I am seriously happy with the results.

Class, with menace.

the car and all parts covered in a thick layer of dust then water we have:

some two tone grey and


relationship dissolution;


04-09-2010, 05:55 PM
Hi Gaijin, very, very impressed by your build, looking forward to the end result.
Are the sh*t guards/stiffeners bonded to the inside rear of the front wings your own creation or an aftermarket product.Also had a good look at your cage and liked it a lot, mainly the thought that has gone into the body attachment areas.

08-10-2010, 10:58 AM
Only just wondered what had happened to this thread and saw it had disappeared! Glad to see you're still working on it, any news on progress?

08-10-2010, 12:23 PM
Awsome job. just hurry up, 2 years I have been following this ;)

10-12-2010, 04:21 AM

Remainder of pics from Bazs shop where the car was painted.

The ***** camera makes it look brown.

Its a really straight light gun mettalic grey with darker gun grey for the flimsy bits.









10-12-2010, 04:21 AM
OK no.2

What happened.

Court action is completed, great outcomes for me, house is sold, ex is gone burger, kids back home.
New projects, new house, new GF, blah blah blah

Welcome home Gaijin, I have missed you.

The silly thing is that it now has a brother.
It arrives next Sunday.
It is very similar in nature to this car.

I couldnt say no.

1972 TA22
5 years on the road being developed.
Street/strip/road/track semi automatic weapon

Anyway, wrong forum for this little lucifer,

back to the real deal.
















the colour seems to make the chrome work standout, which was the plan all along you see.

10-12-2010, 04:36 AM
Hi Gaijin, very, very impressed by your build, looking forward to the end result.
Are the sh*t guards/stiffeners bonded to the inside rear of the front wings your own creation or an aftermarket product.Also had a good look at your cage and liked it a lot, mainly the thought that has gone into the body attachment areas.


They are Datsun wide zg flares which were optional items back in the iron age.

They are not bonded, they are screwed on with a simple rubber backing mould, as per factory.

thanks, hope you liking it. Things should speed up now Im back on board with little distractions now.

10-12-2010, 09:46 AM
Absolutely Stunning. This is my favorite Z in so many ways. I just love everything about it.

10-12-2010, 09:51 AM
That looks absolutely superb! :D Phew, i was thinking we were never going to see another update on this project :)

Good news about the personal stuff and congrats on getting it back home in one piece, doesn't look far off being finished now :D

10-12-2010, 10:30 AM
The silly thing is that it now has a brother.
It arrives next Sunday.
It is very similar in nature to this car.

I couldnt say no.

1972 TA22
5 years on the road being developed.
Street/strip/road/track semi automatic weapon

Anyway, wrong forum for this little lucifer,

Let's see it :)

10-12-2010, 11:19 AM
They are Datsun wide zg flares which were optional items back in the iron age.

They are not bonded, they are screwed on with a simple rubber backing mould, as per factory.

Just to clarify:

There was no factory optional ZG overfender that looked like yours. No offence, but I believe yours are copies ( of copies ) of a privately made and marketed aftermarket overfender, loosely based on the shape and style of the factory ZG type overfenders. I believe this style first appeared in the Japanese aftermarket in the early 1980s.

The factory Sports / Race Option overfenders for the Fairlady Z432-R were wider than the standard ZG type overfenders, and were produced from around March/April 1970, but these had a distinctive shape, with a nice 'lip' on the outer edges. The later factory Sports / Race Option wide overfenders were - again - quite a different shape than the standard ZG overfenders. Yours are not copies of either of these types.

Original factory ZG overfenders were riveted to the body, and had no gasket / backing / weatherstrip material between them and the body. You can use something as a filling in the sandwich, but if your overfenders fit properly you don't actually need to.

Car looks great in paint. I like the colour! :thumbs:

10-12-2010, 11:19 AM
Let's see it :)




Its a real sizzler.

so calm

so little lucifer like

10-12-2010, 09:34 PM



Its a real sizzler.

so calm

so little lucifer like

Tease, tease....C'mon some of us here do like the odd toyota:eek:

11-12-2010, 09:55 PM
this thread is coming along nicely and now that the car is painted the finish line will not be far away.fantastic job so far !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

12-12-2010, 12:42 AM
Toyota will be posted,

it doesnt arrive until Sunday night, = 7 days away.

Hammer and tongs on zed until then.

No mucking about here.

Start at the easier end for now.

Take out rear subframe



Bushes for subframe to body need swapping over
Easiest to do them now...


diff bushes need to be sourced and chucked in



rear brakes need completing, been rebuilt, just a quick spray and in.

rear lower arms could do with a strengthen. Its a gaijin copy of the Nismo options. Very high tech stuff this cardboard.
Since Ill get a local engineering shop to press in/out the bushes, they can weld up some plate to the lower arms until such time as the TIG turns up.




13-12-2010, 12:25 AM
Yes Yes show us that Ta22. We like Toys!!
Z looks Delish!

13-12-2010, 12:53 PM
Great work, i think you're going to take me on the final furlong..... must get back in the garage and finish the V8 this week! :)

13-12-2010, 04:54 PM
Love the colour. cant wait to see how it looks finished. which wont be long, maybe another 2 years lol

17-12-2010, 02:15 AM
2 years my ****, cheeky sod




sophisticated templates cut out with kids snips,
welded in using 2mm plate
paint applied

Had to press out one bush again so it didnt melt out





I believe Ive spent more on this rear end than a 2nd hand skyline complete...ergh.

Subframe bushes in,

Diff mounts are not listed under ER34, but S14 Silvia, but fit well.

Rear end shoved together with little love.
Some bolt threads stripped from panelbeater/painters lack of love.

Ill need to replace a few of them
Might even need to get that one camber arm the right way round, doh.




Dug up the rubber trim that heads around the FAKE super wide ZG arches and gaurds
also used the clips that cover the screws, looks pretty tidy.
Could do with a minor adjustment later.



While AUtolign were sweating over the bushes,

I mucked around with the rear end.
Need plenty of parts, rear lamp rubber gaskets, straighter lamp garnish? panels etc.
Decided to keep the original rego plates, look period.
Rego still live, smart boy...



Stainless roof channel chrome given some lovin and clipped in

Ill get some new quarter panel badges for xmas if Im lucky.



Thats it for this week.
Collect TA22 0800 tomorrow.

17-12-2010, 06:02 PM
Looking great buddy, keep up the good work :)

20-12-2010, 06:24 PM
Now please pardon the shift in brand.

Ill have a link some stage soon to the appropriate site for the continuation of this cars build and development.

Its a 1973 Toyota Celica Ta22
It has a 4cyl 2.0l engine from a ST215 Caldina GTT (the ugly station wagons).
Engine is totally stock internally.

All power adders are external.

The chassis has heaps of work done to it, coil overs Bilstein and Carrera rears.
Camber, castor plates, bushes, Evo 8 brakes, LSD...

It has 400hp at the rears, it weighs complete all fluids/fuels 1060kg.
TD06-25G turbo, 800cc injectors, Link G4 ECU, Elec water pump, elec boost control etc...

It will teach me plenty about what driveability Im after in the zed.
This car requires some work before Im completely happy with it.

Car is completely legal and engineered.

Collection location
Not ready for the PepperTree just yet









Just to state the obvious, I didnt build this car. I bought it as is.
I will start mucking about with it. It will be kept driveable while I put the zed together.

Other random car shots that were in the same location as the collected TA22,

FD3S race car 550hp @ wheels,


Corvette, engine blew up soon after purchase, go figure...
1UZFE & GT35R would work well....


To replace the love of the TA22, try a Datsun 1200 instead,
12A PP, mid mounted, flat floor = lovely car!





Rob Gaskin
20-12-2010, 07:21 PM
Don't get distracted get the 240 finished! :-)

Celica nice but not the wheels -- too modern.

Sunny - I reckon that would be a fun track car. Love the arches and wheels, great position for the engine.

Corvette - wow!

20-12-2010, 08:13 PM
To replace the love of the TA22, try a Datsun 1200 instead,
12A PP, mid mounted, flat floor = lovely car!


Ooh yes baby, now that is a proper weapon. Love the stance and set up! This has given me naughty thoughts:thumbs:

TA22 needs to loose those large diameter wheels,...apart from that perfect:cheers:

20-12-2010, 10:40 PM
i quite like the look of the TA22 with the wheels ,very retro.love the car ,would like one for myself if i had the room.

21-12-2010, 03:46 AM
Can't see the Toyota (or anything for that matter) "Bandwidth exceedeed" on the photobucket account

Rob Gaskin
21-12-2010, 09:44 AM
Ooh yes baby, now that is a proper weapon. Love the stance and set up! This has given me naughty thoughts:thumbs:

Datsfun did you see Mr F's Thread?


22-12-2010, 12:02 AM
Can't see the Toyota (or anything for that matter) "Bandwidth exceedeed" on the photobucket account

Same here :confused:

22-12-2010, 11:38 AM
Same here. Cant see any photos .

Rob Gaskin
22-12-2010, 12:35 PM
I'm assuming this is not a problem with our website but that the 'poster' has exceeded his Photobucket account.

I just knew that as soon as T....a pictures were posted it would cause a problem :lol:

22-12-2010, 08:17 PM
If you use it a lot you should upgrade
Costs pence for what it is

28-12-2010, 03:51 AM
Ok people,

Xmas grinch here waited until xmas day before Photobucket releases pictures, bandwidth exceeded blah blah.

Teach me for buying a toyota.
I was chasing a 2008 cbr1000 for an hour pushing him around some windy roads on the way to the holiday home, knocking sound, then BOOM !

Large holes in both sides of the block.

I have purchased a forged long block with cams to install next week. Apart from that its all go on the zed still. Never forgotten here.

Merry xmas, hope your enjoying the frozen conditions...

bloody hot here, ok ok enough..

28-12-2010, 11:34 PM
Teach me for buying a toyota.

knocking sound, then BOOM !

Large holes in both sides of the block.


Ooops, stick with the dirty nissan power, go the SR20;)

07-01-2011, 09:32 AM
Since owning the Toyota, I have been driving around like a hooligan.

I was chasing a motorbike - newish CBR1000 from Kopu to Hahei turn off, before the tick tick time bomb went off, 20kms later (100m before the Whitianga town sign) the rod from cyl 1 went through both sides of the block spitting sufficient oil out to cause a fire on the turbo side.
I put the fire out with cabin mounted extinguisher and drank the three cold beers still in storage on the back seat.

The biker was in some shock as to what the f**k was following him at those speeds.

I had to laugh so as not to cry.

Engine out, new 2 piece rotors and new pads ordered, new engine arriving this week, light flywheel etc etc. It should be together by next weekend.

SO now that car 3 is down, back to car 2.
Now the GF has flown the coup, I have no more excuses.

Begin then!



Thanks Glenn Martin for the crane ! Enjoy the vinos and the smelly nappies!


All I need in the garage that reads over 30 deg Celsius in the day




Note the welded up water pump, it runs the housing but nothing inside. The electric pump same as the toyota will do the pumping and job of the thermostat.
New cambelt, idlers tensioners etc. Timing needs looking at later.





Apparently good for 400ps, we will see about this. Copper mix, should be driveable though.
Light Cro-mo flywheel from Japan
Replace and clean up thrust bearing and fork in gbox completed











07-01-2011, 09:32 AM
We have a problem. As per usual, change one thing buggers up everything else. Im sure I said this before. The new frame rails had a slight kink in them increasing the overall width between them. The new ones dont, so the radiator needs to be chopped and re-welded at the lower end. Thanks Hayley for the welder use approaching. More wine required.













The above shots and work were completed over a period from 8am until 4am on the zed. One long drunken shift.
The toyota will absorb some time this week when all the parts turn up so wanted to fulfill the promise of getting the engine in the zed at least before going back to work Monday.

Happy New Year to all, make the most of it, life is short.

07-01-2011, 10:10 AM
Happy New year buddy, great progress although i think i might actually just get mine finished before you now :D

Keep up the good work, keep the tunes pumping and enjoy the wine! :)

07-01-2011, 06:29 PM
your Zed is finally looking like the finished article,not long now and you will be driving it down the road.

09-02-2011, 08:31 AM




09-02-2011, 01:53 PM
Looking great buddy! :) Keep up the good work - and good choice on the pizza ;)

28-02-2011, 08:43 PM
This thread has been pretty amazing to read through!

You've done some amazing work on the car, and it looks fantastic! I'd finish getting this done before getting back to the Celica, much as I love the Celica too! The one thing I dislike is the size of the wheels - drop down 1" and get some dish and I think it'll look fantastic!

The Hell pizza brings back memories of when I was in CC too - I had so much fun in NZ!

03-09-2011, 04:03 PM
yip, too much going on and no action up the back section......

Chop chop then!






















The toyota TA22 gets a forged engine now with the ex zed Garrett 3082R turbo, same injectors and a new tune and 1.6bar after run in.

I am moving forward on the basis that the zed club would refuse the fact a 4cyl 2.0L Toyata would be as grunty as a zed, in any engine giuse with Gaijin. Fark that.....

Enter larger turbo.

Enter stroker, new clutch, bigger injectors, ex.manifold etc

Have purchased new workshop equipment to handle most of the new transitions....

Toyota (Gaijin plate) will be 350 rwkw = 550 flywheel hp +/-

Ex- Gaijin (new plate = DTHWSH = 440 rwkw = 680 flywheel hp +/-

Pardon the delay, been chasing monkeys in Malaysian forests, and Malaysian giant lizards chasing me....

Avoid the locals during Ramadam sheesh! Mo disrespect intended, but hell......

Trust everyone is well in this rather strange economic time


No 1;

Glenn Martin for your partner,

No 2;

All Blacks for victory and nothing else

England = whatever

France = rubbish

Aussi = big trouble

Souf Africa = big trouble

And I for some mere progress..

datsun dave
03-09-2011, 06:22 PM
Some great pictures is your bonnet going to shut with that new turbo ?

Keep up with the good work.

03-09-2011, 09:01 PM
I like it alot but wouldn't fancy owning or driving it lol. Nice work though mate.


05-09-2011, 08:15 AM
We just want him to finish it, so we can see it in the flesh roaring around the track! :devil:

05-09-2011, 10:54 AM
Great to see you back on it buddy, how many flipping turbos have you got sitting round your workshop?(!) :D