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Yes, the 260Z "flat top" SUs are generally despised, but give "common sense" a chance and you may be able to trace the problem and possibly resurrect what most recommend to "toss"
As most are pointing to, it is a fuel issue and most likely that of a mixture problem. Try some of these. 1. Visually check for any possible vacum leaks on the manifold to head side of carbs. Especially cracked hose ends that attach to manifold or route off to other areas nibbles where a rubber hose end could have cracked 2. Observe whether 2 choke cables engage at exact same time. If not, loosen and reset so they pull evenly. (or leave loose if you can get car to idle once warm) 3. Trusting that you have verified that dampener in dashpot are moving freely, including dropping with a quiet "thud" or "clunk" and with the complete air cleaner removed and the car at idle, ever so slightly move the throttle rod center linkage all the while watching both dampers to see if both needles move at the exact same time. If not you need to address that issue so that they move at exact same time. 4. Floats can "sink" over time if they are the black plastic type. If yours have sunk, then fuel supply minimum needed for idle could be restricted. This can be a big can of worms to address so I don't advise opening up the carb to check, unless as a "last resort. It's been so long since I opened up a "Flat Top" that I can not recall which float type they had. 5. Lastly, what often made worn down & aged flat tops run extremely rich in the US and thus caused them to fail a "smog test", was often related to the "power valves" mounted on the side of this SU model variation. It's beyond the time I have to write, but I can tell you that a very experience Nissan factory trained mechanic friend of mine told me that there was a simple trick to often making these overly rich running carbs come back into proper mixture and pass smog. In a nutshell his technique was to unscrew the side covers of the power valves and rotate the covers to a different position and re bolt them. What he was doing was changing the internal routing passageways inside the power valve. I believe he told me that when rotated to the position he knew worked, one or more passageways were either sealed off or a new one created or both. I'd have to go to my shop and open up one to double check all that, which I don't have time for, but maybe someone else can elaborate and fill in the missing info. Just some thoughts to look into before you give up on the "Flat Tops". Eric Neyerlin - owner of ZPARTS.COM, ZCARWORLD.COM and ZCARTRADER.COM |
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