Windscreen and rear screen removal / refit 260z

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
OK gang, so I'm soon going to take off my bonnet and pull the engine, what a perfect opportunity to replace the windscreen+ rubbers while able to stand in the engine bay!

There is some good basic stuff in the FSM

http://www.nicoclub.com/manuals/260z/1974/BF Body.pdf

I'm sure many have done this already, so I'm keen to hear what experienced advice / tips you have re.:

- Removal / any tooling (I already have the rope and suction thingies but what else!?) How to keep the chrome trim alive.

- anything else you would do while screen is out (dealing with rust is the obvious one I guess, but what else?)

- Refitting tips: any tricks beyond fitting the chrome first? What adhesives you would recommend etc.

I plan to mask all the bodywork with old towels and masking tape to protect it from my stupidity / impatience.

Or is there a good thread on this already?

Looking forward to installing new rubbers and not having a puddle in the footwell each time I wash the car!

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moggy240

Insurance Valuations Officer
Staff member
Club Member
If your going to replace the rubbers I just cut them out ,first I would cut down the side of the window trim in towards the window so if you slip you don't catch the paint work that way don't bend the trim and then pull the trim away from the side that is cut.one all the trim is removed I cut across the rubber seal and then down so that I have something to grab and then lift the rubber and bend it away and with you Stanley knike or sharp blade just follow it round as it will cut very easy being under tension,when you have done that remove any old sealer and the window should left fairly easy.
Fitting the window I put the rubber seal round the window put my string in using an old sealer tube end so the string goes through the hole in the end and then fit the window ,sometimes a bit of wd40 on the rubber will help it slip over the lip of the window frame. Then I would run a bit of window sealer round the rubber seal to stop water getting past the glass and then fit the trims using some Wd40 and fiting one side in first and lifting the rubber over the overside and the running a small screw driver that have that is quite worn on the end,I do have the proper tool but I find I nicks the rubber going round the bends.
That's how I do it and it works for me but I have had a bit of practice.
 

Farmer42

Club Member
If your going to replace the rubbers I just cut them out ,first I would cut down the side of the window trim in towards the window so if you slip you don't catch the paint work that way don't bend the trim and then pull the trim away from the side that is cut.one all the trim is removed I cut across the rubber seal and then down so that I have something to grab and then lift the rubber and bend it away and with you Stanley knike or sharp blade just follow it round as it will cut very easy being under tension,when you have done that remove any old sealer and the window should left fairly easy.
Fitting the window I put the rubber seal round the window put my string in using an old sealer tube end so the string goes through the hole in the end and then fit the window ,sometimes a bit of wd40 on the rubber will help it slip over the lip of the window frame. Then I would run a bit of window sealer round the rubber seal to stop water getting past the glass and then fit the trims using some Wd40 and fiting one side in first and lifting the rubber over the overside and the running a small screw driver that have that is quite worn on the end,I do have the proper tool but I find I nicks the rubber going round the bends.
That's how I do it and it works for me but I have had a bit of practice.

I did this on an old Triumph Dolomite a few years back. I would echo what Moggy has said but with 2 differences when fitting the new rubbers. Firstly, I have heard that WD40 is not good for rubber so I would invest in a can of silicone spray otherwise a cheap washing up liquid will be just as good to help the rubber slip over the lip.

Secondly, when fitting the trim, the ends of small screwdrivers are sharp even when worn and can possibly nick or tear the rubber causing leaks. My advice would be to go to an art shop or somewhere that would sell an artists small plastic mixing spatula. Plastic will always be less of a risk than metal. Also, I found that plastic slides along the metal trim easier than metal screwdrivers & doesn't scratch.

Good luck!
 

Huw

Club Member
Just done my rear hatch window Ali. Pretty much what been said above. But I wouldn't recommend washing up liquid as it can promote rust and if you are going to use a sealer under the rubber, the residual soap will not allow it to make a good seal. You shouldn't need a lubricant if you are using new seals and a decent bit of cord. Should you get a tight spot, a spot of WD40 works a treat. I have a proper windscreen installation cord you can use if you wish. Just pm me your address and promise to post it back when your done :).

Its just the right diameter not to cut into the rubber as you draw it out of the seal. To thin a cord and it will act like a cheese wire on you new rubber seals, too fat and you cant get it to pull the rubber out at the corners. Making little figure 8's with the string as you pull it along will stop it wanting to dig into the rubber around the corners where it can get a bit tight.

Have fun!
 

Fairlineguy

Club Member
My screen guy charged me £50 last time to refit front and rear screens. He assembled them with the chrome trims then stringed them in.
I going to get him to do them on my latest rebuild as he runs his sealer gun around once fitted .
I have done them myself in the past only to find they leak
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Thanks fellas!!

All very good advice and exactly what I was looking for, lots of good experiences :thumbs:

Mr fairline would love the number of your guy as I may be doing the job in Devon and can drive over to Bristol to save myself the hassle for £50!
 
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