what to do with this

tel240z

Club Member
No it'll be alright i had a car in today with a puncture so i just made it the same shape then it will fit in when i take it off :p :rolleyes:

oh your back then :eek:
 

tel240z

Club Member
What sort of seats are you using and is the re-shaped floor going to be a problem?
Well i found this old milk crate the other day and that seems to fit a bit high though, but a few cable ties should hold it to the floor :smash::smash:

No only joking it,ll be alright morbias its only stolen a couple of inches inside even the left foot rest is ok to use, as for seats dont know yet i'm sure i'll find somthing nice
 

tel240z

Club Member
bit of an update well not a lot :(

just sorted the pedal box to take the origional m3cluch master cylinder thought this would be safest to keep the ratios the same as the m3 box also gives clearance in the engine bay for the m3 head
 

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tel240z

Club Member
Also collected the car from pipecraft today, that section of floor i cut out done the trick, the two 60mm pipes running down the car are just 10mm below the floor chassis rails :D need to shape the back pannel now accept those two twin rear pipes :devil:
 

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racer

Club Member
I like the way they got the system nice and high up Tel. You shouldn't have any clearence issues when you Slam it! :D
 

tel240z

Club Member
Brain tester

Been playing with wires for the last 3 days after several pieces of A4 paper with notes on i got this far :rolleyes: its quite a brain teaser trying to intergrate 1970s type light switches and wiper controls into modern relays, tricky bits are like indicators and hazard wiring, the m3 engines simple compared with the datsun wiper motor which has six wires and a large relay attached to it although i did learn somthing new today is that when you swich of the wipers on a Z as they enter the park position the motor is earthed out so as to stall it in the park position, bit like a DC train motor when it enters the station, here is some pics of progress its all only a temporary install to get everything working then i shall loom tape it all up and make it into sub looms so it can be removed when i start the body prep, bit of luck i'll have the motor running by wednesday :devil:

enjoy
 

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tel240z

Club Member
Oh i nearly forgot its going to need some fuel look how simple BMW has made it for me, filter and regulator, fuel in pipe return pipe back and a vacume hose to contro it all and a second hand walbro pump taken off some old RB26 powered 240Z ;)
 

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johnymd

Club Member
I really feal for you Terry. Auto wiring is a nightmare. They follow no electrical convention. This is a good reason why you should never ask an auto spark to do any wiring in your house.
 

Mr.F

Inactive
Do BMW still use brown wires for all their earths? Just to confuse you with Datsun / Nissan using all black for earths...
 

datsun dave

Club Member
Please don't talk to me about wiring i have moved my RB26 wiring loom inside the pass footwell and must have disturbed a wire and the car will now not fire up !!!!

Now were are the keys to my new toy !!!!!
 

tel240z

Club Member
Mike Yes you got it spot on

Franky yes it will be a 5 bar pump not the one in the picture but a nice new shiny one
Ecu from specialist components and i have a man just down the road who can map it if i need a bit more power, if i fit some cams;) :devil:

Dave thats a bummer i'm hoping i dont have that as i'm using all new crimp lucar connectors with the nice little rubber boots like those on the little fuse board in the picture, the edges actually fold over into the wire and look factory unlike the blue plastic covered ones that just clamp the wire
 

johnymd

Club Member
Are you soldering your connections Terry? There are 2 schools of thought with regard to this. My mate makes race car loomes and does a lot of rally cars. He helped me do mine and supplied all the stuff. I mentioned to him about soldering the ends and he said it was not good practice and he had never built a loom with soldered ends. His reasoning behind this was as follows: When you heat the wire it will change its properties and at the point where the solder ends you will have a weak point in the copper wire that will break if subject to movement. He assured me that as long as the connector is made off properly there is no need for solder.
 
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