Weber cold start connection | The Z Club of Great Britain

Weber cold start connection

Discussion in 'S30 (240Z,260Z,280Z) Engine' started by Luddy, Nov 28, 2017.

  1. Luddy

    Z Club Member


    What’s the deal with connecting up the weber cold start units? I can't believe this hasn't been posted before but having spent 20 mins going through old posts I’ve given up.

    I'm currently refurbing some triple weber and notice that the cold start units seem to point the wrong way, I looked at a load of pictures and most don’t have these connected, I’ve also come across posts on Google about ‘cold start elimination’ kits with the suggestion that these are fitted to prevent fuel leaks.

    So, my questions are; 1 do people connect these up and if so how, 2 if I don’t connect them should I be concerned about fuel leaks?

  2. jonbills

    Z Club Member

    I think generally people don’t connect them up, because you can get the enrichment you need for cold start from the accelerator pumps.
    I have also read that they can wear and leak, making your mixture too rich, so safer just to block them off.
  3. Luddy

    Z Club Member

    Thanks, in terms of blocking them off do people use the weber cold start elimination kits or is there a budget fix?
  4. jonbills

    Z Club Member

    I’m not sure - I have Dellortos which don’t have the problem. There’s some description of it in a book I have at home - I’ll have a look at the weekend if no one else chips in.
  5. Albrecht

    Albrecht Active Forum User

    Many years ago, I rigged up an extra long Bowden cable to the original choke lever (1971 HS30 240Z). I had the cable made by Speedy Cables in north London, who still exist but in a new location.

    I looped the Bowden cable along the left side and around the front end of the cam cover front and into the front DCOE at such an angle that the cable still worked smoothly. I stripped back the outer part of the cable after the first DCOE, fed the inner through to the rear DCOE, and then cinched the wire holders on the starter device levers up on all three so that they were synchronised. Worked perfectly well.

    But in practice the engine was happy to start on a couple of pumps on the accel pedal (as jonbills has pointed out, the accelerator pump circuit gives enough of an enriched shot to start on) and it took less than thirty seconds to idle quite happily on even the coldest days, so in the end I deleted the cable completely. As long as your starter devices are in good condition and the return springs are doing their job you should not need to delete/block them. For extra peace of mind you can safety wire the levers into the closed position.
  6. Rob Gaskin

    Rob Gaskin Membership Secretary Staff Member

    I agree with the posts above.

    I'm a big SU fan however my latest Z (Samuri) has 40DCOE carbs and they have been 'set-up' very well. No 'choke' is needed, it's the best cold starting Z I have had - my expectations were the opposite.
  7. Luddy

    Z Club Member

    Thanks Rob / Albrecht, I'll leave them unconnected and see how I get on.

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