atomman
Club Member
Helps being in charge of a machine shop with lots of toys then doesn't it?!
it does have its advantage's Rich
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toyota Hilux/Peugeot 505 brake upgrade
- Thread starter atomman
- Start date
it does have its advantage's Rich
atomman
Club Member
Got them on and done a few miles on them now
Feel really good and stop very well, will be going on a run this weekend with my friend in his mk RS2000 up to Brecon so will see how good they are then,
Didn't drill or groove them yet but may do, I wanted to see how they performed before i started drill holes and things,
Heres all the ingredients
Spacer ended up being machined down to about 8mm thick as the disc wasn't sitting in the niddle of the calliper with it 11.5mm
Feel really good and stop very well, will be going on a run this weekend with my friend in his mk RS2000 up to Brecon so will see how good they are then,
Didn't drill or groove them yet but may do, I wanted to see how they performed before i started drill holes and things,
Heres all the ingredients
Spacer ended up being machined down to about 8mm thick as the disc wasn't sitting in the niddle of the calliper with it 11.5mm
here's the latest mod
bit of grooving
Thats just rubbing our noses in it Gary as most of us cant do stuff like that at home..LOL!!!
What about some rows of dimples then????:lol:
think dimples maybe next :lol:
I was going to cross drill them to but its a right pain to set them up for that,
Will order that aluminium next week when im back in
Good man!!
RJRACIN240
Forum User
Atomman, very nice build looks like your Z has quite a bit done to it. Currently visiting from |Florida and hoping to see some Z's while here, PM'd you a message as I am currenly in Llandybie and hope to see your Z in person if possible.
atomman
Club Member
I have done a bit more work on the conversion lately,
As its got bigger callipers and a bigger discs it's naturally a bit heavier than the standard set up, so I have changed the spacer to aluminium and redesigned it to match the profile of the hub.
The steel one was a bit heavy to be honest and you had to paint it to stop it rusting, the new ally one must be a 1/4 of the weight of the old one and wont rust to
As its got bigger callipers and a bigger discs it's naturally a bit heavier than the standard set up, so I have changed the spacer to aluminium and redesigned it to match the profile of the hub.
The steel one was a bit heavy to be honest and you had to paint it to stop it rusting, the new ally one must be a 1/4 of the weight of the old one and wont rust to
Undoubtedly this is old hat but ...
I think I read somewhere that you can get a bolt for bolt conversion without the need for spacers, if you use the non-vented discs and upgrade to braided brake lines.
1. Is that right?
2. Is there a cheap source?
3. Will I need the pre '84 callipers or will these on the link below work without spacers and different discs?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=331213359796
I have a pair of virgin standard discs that I would like to use.
My car will spend 99.98% of it's life on public roads so vented is not essential for me.
Appreciate any advice.
Ali K
I think I read somewhere that you can get a bolt for bolt conversion without the need for spacers, if you use the non-vented discs and upgrade to braided brake lines.
1. Is that right?
2. Is there a cheap source?
3. Will I need the pre '84 callipers or will these on the link below work without spacers and different discs?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=331213359796
I have a pair of virgin standard discs that I would like to use.
My car will spend 99.98% of it's life on public roads so vented is not essential for me.
Appreciate any advice.
Ali K
Ali, what is the issue with your current brakes?
If you're not stopping quick enough is everything working?
What pads/linings are you using?
Are any wheels locking up if you use full pressure?
If you want to improve braking on a standard car that is in good condition and used only 'on the road' then you must want to drag the car down from high speed once IMO. I have a standard 240Z and the brakes are fine at legal speeds and driving with due car and attention.
If you are on a long 'Alpine' drive then you may need something better to dissipate the heat and therefore vented discs like modern cars.
So basically 4 pots on standard discs with good pads will stop you better in an emergency. Anything more than that and you need to consider cooling.
If you're not stopping quick enough is everything working?
What pads/linings are you using?
Are any wheels locking up if you use full pressure?
If you want to improve braking on a standard car that is in good condition and used only 'on the road' then you must want to drag the car down from high speed once IMO. I have a standard 240Z and the brakes are fine at legal speeds and driving with due car and attention.
If you are on a long 'Alpine' drive then you may need something better to dissipate the heat and therefore vented discs like modern cars.
So basically 4 pots on standard discs with good pads will stop you better in an emergency. Anything more than that and you need to consider cooling.
Thanks fellas.
Rob, my front discs are slightly warped and when I first purchased the car I bought the discs to replace, but then I never got round to it.
While I agree that the brakes are pretty good for an old car, in an emergency I won't stop as quick as I like. Also if my wife is driving she won't be thinking about it, as she's very used to the over servo-ed Audi brakes.
Haven't locked up the wheels yet though and the MOT guy told me the brake balance was excellent. Also the PO put on a new master cyl.
So I figured if I'm going to make the time to do the brakes I may as well upgrade them (and replace the bearings too). I thought the having four pots and bigger pads would get me more braking force / better feel.
Is that a bad plan then?
(BTW the standard Z brakes put my old student car 1995 pug 306 to shame! )
Ali K
Rob, my front discs are slightly warped and when I first purchased the car I bought the discs to replace, but then I never got round to it.
While I agree that the brakes are pretty good for an old car, in an emergency I won't stop as quick as I like. Also if my wife is driving she won't be thinking about it, as she's very used to the over servo-ed Audi brakes.
Haven't locked up the wheels yet though and the MOT guy told me the brake balance was excellent. Also the PO put on a new master cyl.
So I figured if I'm going to make the time to do the brakes I may as well upgrade them (and replace the bearings too). I thought the having four pots and bigger pads would get me more braking force / better feel.
Is that a bad plan then?
(BTW the standard Z brakes put my old student car 1995 pug 306 to shame! )
Ali K
Update: so a certain Scottish gentleman convinced me I need to go vented discs.
Now here's the question: what braided lines to use, are there any recommendations? How are these ...
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=400586464921
Ali K
Now here's the question: what braided lines to use, are there any recommendations? How are these ...
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=400586464921
Ali K
Guys,
I upgraded my brakes at the weekend and wow! The car now stops as well as a modern car.
Thought I'd post up a slight challenge I had in case anyone else comes across it.
Courtesy of a kind Scottish gentleman, I sourced the callipers and discs.
Here they are fitted.
However when I put the wheels on, it was as if the callipers were seized on. Then came the light bulb moment when I realised the front fins of the callipers were connecting with the wheel. The hub to inside wheel distance on my wheels measured at 12mm.
Hub to outside of the callipers measured 15mm.
Not being a fan of spacers out came the goggles and angle grinder - after lots of sparks, I took 5mm off the outside of the callipers. See below:
My wheels are 14x7 and I run stock size 195 tyres.
I upgraded my brakes at the weekend and wow! The car now stops as well as a modern car.
Thought I'd post up a slight challenge I had in case anyone else comes across it.
Courtesy of a kind Scottish gentleman, I sourced the callipers and discs.
Here they are fitted.
However when I put the wheels on, it was as if the callipers were seized on. Then came the light bulb moment when I realised the front fins of the callipers were connecting with the wheel. The hub to inside wheel distance on my wheels measured at 12mm.
Hub to outside of the callipers measured 15mm.
Not being a fan of spacers out came the goggles and angle grinder - after lots of sparks, I took 5mm off the outside of the callipers. See below:
My wheels are 14x7 and I run stock size 195 tyres.
Last edited by a moderator:
STEVE BURNS
Club Member
May be a stupid question from a stupid person but what is the reason of the access metal you ground off
would have thought that whoever manufactured them would have nade the them flat in the first place to save money
would have thought that whoever manufactured them would have nade the them flat in the first place to save money
johnymd
Club Member
The "fins" are there to aid cooling. They are designed to stop a 2+ton 4x4 in the worst possible conditions by the manufacturer. Using a little reasoning, a 1ish ton z should require a lot less energy to stop and therefore generate a lot less heat and so, not require as much cooling.
Just my take on it.
Just my take on it.