tdc

[surreyseagull]

a couple of querys for you techys out there.
had the car up and running for a bit now and seems to be revving nice and smoothly and im just itching to hammer the fxxk out of it down road.(oops i mean drive nice n sensabley!!) but just a couple of concerns. ive noticed i have got virtually no oil pressure.now maybe something has just given up the ghost in the 14 years its been sitting but the job this week is to drain oil, fit a brand new high volume oil pump,new oil pressure sender unit,new filter and see what happens.
what is the best way to get the engine to top dead centre to change the pump??.
also when i swapped from the 260z carbs to su carbs i was left with a lot of redundant pipework.
attached is a pic of pipe that comes from thermostat.after engine gets hot. steam is coming out of here..does it need to be plugged?.or does a pipe go from here to elsewhere?.
also one last one if mr feeney is about,can you give me a quote for k+n filters for the su carbs. 1 3/4...cheers all

 

[morbias]

There is a pipe that feeds water through the carb bodies to warm the fuel mix, maybe it's that?

 

[surreyseagull]

im sure on the 260z carbs it went into air filter?..for the momment ive just stuck a pipe over it while i work out where it goes?

 

[SKiddell]

With the crank damper set to TDC the distributor tang should be in this position

If your timing marks are known to be wrong (some people have the wrong damper/pointers fitted) then use a long reach dial gauge down the plug hole of No 1.....or failing that a piston stop (I made one out of an old spark plug)

Dont forget to fill the pump with clean oil to "prime" it prior to fitting

 

[Mr.F]

if mr feeney is about,can you give me a quote for k+n filters for the su carbs. 1 3/4.

63mm deep K & N £37.06 + VAT each - usually available in 2 - 3 days.

 

[Mr.F]

Y-shaped pipe from thermostat housing directs water to the manifold from one branch and through the original 260Z carburettors from the other. You could probably do away with both and plug the outlet hole - threaded plugs available from plumber's merchants.
You will need to investigate what other pipes then become redundant at the rear of the engine and also at the Y-piece on the RH rear of the block which feeds the heater.

 

[Mr.G]

Easiest way is to remove the spark plug in No1 cylinder and put a long probe in, a long screw driver will do but make sure it doesnt jam in there. Turn the engine by hand by using a ratchet on the damper bolt, on the COMPRESSION stroke watch the screw driver reach it's peak height, if it starts to go down reverse until it's at it's peak. Then check the tang as stated above and should be as shown in that photo. Your damper should also be at 0, or if not either the pointer has moved or the damper rubber is loose and the whole damper may need replacing.

You will know when it's on the compression stroke as it will blow air out from the spark plug hole rather then suck.