Rear lower control arm

[morbias]

And so the voyage of discovery continues...

While I was crawling about under the car today I found another something new, one of the lower control arms is upside down! How someone managed to do that boggles the mind, they surely could have looked 12 inchs across at the other one to make sure which way around it should go.

How exactly do I take them off, is it necessary to remove the diff?

 

[zbloke]

I'd leave it just the way it is if I where you..........

 

[morbias]

Is it meant to be like that?

 

[zbloke]

Yes, and your not the first person to think one is on upside down either

 

[SKiddell]

As Tim says

Passenger side rear end sag solved?

 

[morbias]

lol that is the most bizarre thing ever, when I saw it I thought the thinners had got to me!

If I did need to take it off does that involve removing the diff completely?

How do I get the lock pin out on the end that connects to the strut?

 

[johnymd]

The cotter pin has a nut on the end, once removed it can be tapped out. It's a standard type coller pin. The control arms are the same both sides, that's why one looks upside down.

 

[morbias]

Any tips on what to tap it out with, to avoid damaging the thread? And do I remove the roll bar from the control arm or the body first, or doesn't it matter?

 

[moggy240]

i always remove the roll bar from the control arms first then the body,i presume you are wanting to remove your rear control arms ? just a tip use a slide hammer on the control arm bolt ,i used a spare slide end with nut welded on it .

 

[Rob Gaskin]

Morbias, great thread - yes they are unusual, I wonder if Ferrari would do that?

That pin that attaches the arm to the strut can be a real problem to remove - be warned!

 

[morbias]

ah crap, this sounds like no fun! I'm planning on taking it all apart to rebuild it, maybe I will see how the bushing joint feels when I get it all out and hopefully not have to deal with it and leave the control arm attached to the strut.

 

[Ian Patmore]

Morbias,
When putting the coter pin back, don't overtighten, this is what usually ever so slightly bends the spindle pin, not rust as commonly thought that make removal difficult, (which holds the strut to the control arm) and gives further removal problems. Don't even think of whacking the spindle pin with a hammer..you will just damage the end threads and new these are getting pricy. I have a puller made up which just pulls the spindle pin out easily.

 

[morbias]

Cheers for the tip, I'll bear that in mind if I have to take it apart (hopefully I won't). I was considering replacing the rear wheel bearings too but I just saw a write-up on that and it sounds like something I really don't want to get into. I haven't checked the bearings yet, hopefully they won't need doing.

 

[Ian Patmore]

Morbias,
The rear wheel bearing are worth doing, these are something that does not often get changed out by Z owners in the past, so your bearings could still be what Nissan fitted when the car was built. They are a faff to do, I took my whole strut to my local machine shop, worth every penny compared to the hassle of doing it myself. Though, these bearings are getting pricy now...oh, and the nut that holds the bearings and stud axle in place, use a 280zx one, these do not require the ends of the nuts to be bent over (which you may have read about on your read on the write up)

 

[vpulsar]

I was considering replacing the rear wheel bearings too but I just saw a write-up on that and it sounds like something I really don't want to get into. I haven't checked the bearings yet, hopefully they won't need doing.

I took the hubs down to my local garage and the guys charged me about 20 quid to change the bearings for me, So don't be put off.



Rob

 

[morbias]

Oh yeah, I'd definitely get someone else to do those for me

Anyone know the socket size for the inner joint on the rear control arms? It looks like 24 or 25mm, not sure.

Also the size of the front hub nut, I haven't got any big sockets so I'll have to buy them separately.

 

[moggy240]

Oh yeah, I'd definitely get someone else to do those for me

Anyone know the socket size for the inner joint on the rear control arms? It looks like 24 or 25mm, not sure.

Also the size of the front hub nut, I haven't got any big sockets so I'll have to buy them separately.

you do not need to undo the inner joint ones unless you are fitting new bushings and i would have by time you buy the sockets separately it would be cheaper to buy a set of sockets.

 

[morbias]

So I can just drop the control arm out of the diff mount bracket without undoing the end bolts?

I already have a socket set but it only goes up to 21mm, so bigger ones I need separately as I'll only use them for a couple of things

 

[moggy240]

yes just unbolt the diff mount bracket bolts and the rear mount bracket bolts that hangs down at the bottom of the L shaped brackets.
this socket set should cover all the sizes you need

BRAND NEW 38 PCE DEEP IMPACT SOCKET SET 3/8" + 1/2" | eBay UK

 

[morbias]

That sounds pretty easy, I'm sure I'll find a way to balls it up somehow though. Is the best place to put axle stands on either side of the diff mount bracket? I couldn't see anywhere else to stick them.