rear brake hard line replacement

Jimbo

1978 260z in yellow
Club Member
hi everyone,
how hard is it to replace the brake pipe hard lines from the master cylinder to the rear cylinders?
i see there`s a long straight piece that goes under the floor to the rear but at the rear the shape is quite complicated.
is it possible to make one new pipe out of copper or is it better to make it all in sections and joint it all back up?
there must be a joint there somewhere to send fluid to the left and right sides but i cant see one there as it must be behind the diff or something?
if anyone has any pictures of the layout i would be grateful.
regards

James
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Yes there is a 'multi-block' at the rear on the body in front of the diff.

You should be able to replicate the original - perhaps not as neat.

I wouldn't add more joints than standard unless it's absolutely necessary.

Try to keep the bends smooth and as large a diameter as possible.
 

Jimbo

1978 260z in yellow
Club Member
apologies
mine is a 1978 260 2+2 rhd uk model
thankyou for the feed back so far
 

Jimbo

1978 260z in yellow
Club Member
thankyou Albrecht
it looks simple enough.
thanks again for all your help much appreciated
 

Jimbo

1978 260z in yellow
Club Member
im going to be undertaking this task shortly and have a few more questions.
what size are the brake pipe ferrules at their respective joints?
are they all one particular type and size?

albrecht thankyou for your suggestion i did look up the automec pipes and they do look very nice but im only doing the rear pipes as the other pipework has allready been changed so i only need to make up the remaing rear ones seems a waste o buy the kit and only use half of it.

regards

james
 

spitdigger

Club Member
M10x1 used throughout.
I did get some that had quite a blank shoulder on the end of the thread and found they didn't have many turns of thread into a the rear wheel clylinders (from memory) so changed to unions/ferrules without the unthreaded shoulder wihich tightened with more confidence.
 

Jimbo

1978 260z in yellow
Club Member
thanks very much spit digger and cheers for the heads up on the rear cylinder unions.:thumbs:
 

Jimbo

1978 260z in yellow
Club Member
right ive got all the old pipe work off. typically every union was rounded so ended up cutting pipes off so i could get sockets on them to get them out.
i see what you mean spit digger about the shoulderless unions.
i ordered new m10x1 unions but annoyingly have square shoulders, the datsuns ones are countersunk!
looks like this https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=s...hXC3SwKHYavDjYQ_AUIBigB#imgrc=XUL67_EwIzx0oM:
do you think this will make any difference or should i try and countersink the shoulder on the new unions?

regards

james
 

Jimbo

1978 260z in yellow
Club Member
well that job sucked but ive done it!
ended up countersinking the shouldered unions to get the correct shape.
that one peice pipe that goes front to back was a nightmare to get in and bent around the floor and stuff.
glad thats over and done with.


 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Well done and yes it looks very good.

How are your fuel lines, check them above the diff. for rot.
 

Jimbo

1978 260z in yellow
Club Member
cheers guys, theyre a lot better than the old steel ones which had corroded.:eek:

thanks for the heads up rob, i did change them for some rubber hosing around diff and the really bendy bits and the straight runs between the front to the back and around the anti roll bar are now 8mm copper pipe. :thumbs:
im glad its done:driving:
 

Jimbo

1978 260z in yellow
Club Member
i just need to get some new bolts in the anti roll bar clamps, i mustn't forget about that!
im in the process of changing the gearbox oil at the moment as the old stuff is a bit funky and bright green???
would EP 75/90 gear oil be ok to use?
 

johnymd

Club Member
Looks good. If you think the 260 is hard, try doing the 240 front to back line. They are tucked up in the transmission tunnel.
 
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