no hot air!!!

jimmer

jimmer

Well-Known Forum User
hi,
are there any common faults relating to the heater on a z32 tt.got a problem with a car where the heater wont blow hot air.the supply and return hoses to the bulkhead get hot but with the heater set at its maximum the air feels chilled and the condensation pipe on the bulkhead drips.it seems like the air con pump is engaged permenently but the clutch drops on and off when the switch is pressed.the cooling system isnt air locked so im assuming the heater is faulty????.
 
Could be an air lock in the system or blocked matrix. check the heater solenoid is moving the temp control valve
 
possibley blocked bud i took the hoses of that went to mine and found them full of rusty limescale poo give it a good flush probably needs it anyway and go from there
 
How did this one pan out?

Got a similar problem with the wife's Z32. Seems to take forever to get the car up to running temperature (how long do they take to heat up, this one goes about 7 miles before getting temperature in it?). The heater is also stone cold until engine gets to temp but even then it's barely luke warm at best.

I'm assuming the thermostat is faulty (bought a new one) and that a flush through will go some way to getting some warmth in the cabin come winter. Anyone recommend a good flushing agent? Also, does the Z just take regular coolant or is it special stuff like Saab's use. I know from past experience Saab matrix's block up if the wrong coolant is used (they don't tolerate Glycol).

Slowly working through the list of faults the git who sold it to us had 'forgotten' to mention (typical BMW mechanic, fix everything that's working and leave the faults). After the heater is fixed it's the prop centre bearing. One winging it's way from So-Cal as I type. $180 including post! Result!!!!
 
Weirdly (and maybe completely un-interestingly) I've got a similar problem on my car (what car could he be on about? He's a twat and doesn't drive!) Well, the Mrs escort mk 6 blower works occasionally. Doesn't from start but when going round a corner sometimes kicks in. Works at the minute etc. I'm sure it's a wiring problem bet'wixt blower and power. Don't care if you guys dis the crap out of me for having an Escort but that's all the gods of car supply are willing to extend to for me for the time being. Any help is greatly and humbly accepted.
 
Sounds like a problem I had with my Frontera. The method I used was to swap the feeder hoses over that go into the heater matrix for a couple of weeks, and then flush the system, and swap them back. Sounds awfully like a blocked matrix. What ever you do don't use an air gun to blast it out, and if you use a water hose turn it right down. Matrixes are fragile to say the least and you run the risk of cracking it if too much pressure is used. when you flush it out remeber to do the entire system including the radiator or you will just send all the crud back into places it shouldn't be. If you have a really bunged up system you might have to do this a few times. Finally remember to bleed all the air out after filling it. I dunno how its done on a Z32 but usually there is a valve, temp sensor, or cap you remove to do it. If you don't you will get an air pocket and that can lead to blown head gaskets.

Cheers
Neal
 
sounds like a blocked heater matrix. The two pipes to the heater are between the back of the engine and the bulkhead (not easy to get at) disconnect them and flush out with hosepipe in both directions. It's a notorious problem on z32 but flushing (if it works ) is th easy way out. changing the matrix is a pig and new ones not cheap Make a good job of flushing or it's the same thing all over again until you get it right.
 
Check the electrical connectors to the ducting pipes above your legs in the footwell ;)
 
Escort problem with intermittent heater is usually the switch. Very common on mark 5/6. Switches are crap quality. Same switch is fitted to virtually all Fords of this period. Try one from the scrappy, you may get lucky.
Pretty certain the Z32 matrix will need a flush before I change the thermostat. I'm going to give it a 'speedflush' and see where it goes from there. Any particular bleeding process I should know about other than setting the heater to hot, opening the expansion tank and squeezing the top hose 'til coolant stops bubbling? I assume that taking the best part of 10 minutes to get temperature into the coolant is not normal? My Subaru has hot air in about 3 minutes and SWMBO's Celica is about the same. Z seems to take an awfully long time to heat up.
 
I can supply a cooling system flush that will remove all limescale and rust, it really eats through it. To be honest I do it on any cars I buy as a matter of course. Imports are a must due to the hard water and how long they have probably been sitting.
If anyone wants any more help feel free to pm me
Mike
 
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