Mallory distributor wiring sequence

[zedhed]

Hi Guys, Z Farm are having difficulty setting up my Mallory distributor - the module may be fried, but also apparently they have a different plug sequence from the standard units. I can't find them in the Mallory instructions, does anyone happen to know what they should be? Picture showing layout appreciated.

Best, Nick

 

[zedhed]

To add, I'm told Mallory’s #1 terminal location on the distributor cap is NOT the same as the stock distributor. So if your Mallory distributor was set at the same location as the stock distributor, it will not fire (that doesn’t mean the distributor is not working, it’s just that the firing occurs when the valves are open, so no spark)".

 

[morbias]

I'm confused, how can it have a different firing sequence

The #1 might be in a different position but can you not just set the engine to TDC and see where the rotor is pointing and then work anti-clockwise from there?

Also, if your oil pump has been inserted into the engine 180 degrees out then that might also confuse things further.

 

[SKiddell]

I too am also confused with the comment

apparently they have a different plug sequence from the standard units

????

Also the following is confusing

it’s just that the firing occurs when the valves are open, so no spark)".

why would the valves being open mean no spark, the spark is "triggered" by either a crank sensor (typical on an ECU) or a trigger within the distributor drive, the distributor drive is driven by the oil pump drive which is in turn driven off the crank, ergo the distributor doesnt "know" that the valves are open or indeed closed as the drive can be mistimed mechanically ........see morbias post above (quoted below)

if your oil pump has been inserted into the engine 180 degrees out then that might also confuse things further.

 

[johnymd]

I'd be a little worried by this! Did they spend too long at the pub today?

 

[zedhed]

The #1 might be in a different position but can you not just set the engine to TDC and see where the rotor is pointing and then work anti-clockwise from there?

My thoughts exactly ...

Eiji the engine builder just got back to me and he had set up the Mallory unit in the correct order, but I guess Z farm removed that when they hooked up the standard unit.

He said following:

"Otherwise, what you will have to do is to bring the engine to TDC (Top Dead Center) position (your mechanic will know what that means), and remove the distributor cap to see where the rotor is pointing at, and that should be your #1 terminal location. Then place other terminals in 1-5-6-3-2-4 order counter clockwise."

So yes, there is a way to determine if the dizzy is in the correct order.

They also said reason for no spark could be that the module is fried due to incorrect wiring setup - and there's a simple test to determine whether the module is working or not.

Anyway, seeing at this point they're struggling with it, and really don't seem keen to fiddle with it, and seeing the engine fired up fine with the old 280 unit and new coils it should be OK for break-in.

So rather than cause any more unnecessary hours to be logged, I asked for the existing dizzy to be used instead. I will have to figure this out before final rolling road session, or if the module is fried, leave it as-is.

Nick

 

[morbias]

My thoughts exactly ...

Eiji the engine builder just got back to me and he had set up the Mallory unit in the correct order, but I guess Z farm removed that when they hooked up the standard unit.

He said following:

"Otherwise, what you will have to do is to bring the engine to TDC (Top Dead Center) position (your mechanic will know what that means), and remove the distributor cap to see where the rotor is pointing at, and that should be your #1 terminal location. Then place other terminals in 1-5-6-3-2-4 order counter clockwise."

So yes, there is a way to determine if the dizzy is in the correct order.

They also said reason for no spark could be that the module is fried due to incorrect wiring setup - and there's a simple test to determine whether the module is working or not.

Anyway, seeing at this point they're struggling with it, and really don't seem keen to fiddle with it, and seeing the engine fired up fine with the old 280 unit and new coils it should be OK for break-in.

So rather than cause any more unnecessary hours to be logged, I asked for the existing dizzy to be used instead. I will have to figure this out before final rolling road session, or if the module is fried, leave it as-is.

Nick

By the way, the correct firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4, dunno if that was a typo!

Also, be aware that if the oil pump is 180 degrees out then the top half of the standard dizzy shaft (above the weights) can be turned 180 degrees so your plug order on the cap looks as it should. Not sure if you can do that on a Mallory dizzy or not, but that might be something worth checking as you might have two distributors which are 180 degrees out from eachother.

 

[zedhed]

I too am also confused with the comment ????

Also the following is confusing
why would the valves being open mean no spark, the spark is "triggered" by either a crank sensor (typical on an ECU) or a trigger within the distributor drive, the distributor drive is driven by the oil pump drive which is in turn driven off the crank, ergo the distributor doesnt "know" that the valves are open or indeed closed as the drive can be mistimed mechanically ........see morbias post above (quoted below)

LOL yes - well I think he meant that the spark will occur, it’s just that when the piston position is in a way different position, you won’t “hear” the spark and the engine won’t start, which can be mistaken for no spark... Anyway I'll get the to bottom of this when I get the car - find out if it's the module or just installation.

Another apparent issue is that Gaz allegedly welded the one of the strut casings in at the wrong angle creating excessive negative camber on the offside rear wheel, so I'll be chasing that up too...

Looks like we're in for some delays ...

 

[morbias]

jeez, Gaz did yours wonky too?

That's very worrying, surely that is the one thing they should make sure they get right, and that's several instances on these forums alone. I was actually thinking of biting the bullet and considering getting mine converted by them but not a chance now.

 

[richiep]

jeez, Gaz did yours wonky too?

That's very worrying, surely that is the one thing they should make sure they get right, and that's several instances on these forums alone. I was actually thinking of biting the bullet and considering getting mine converted by them but not a chance now.

Again? Not a very good advert for them is it?

 

[johnymd]

I'd still go for GAZ as you cant beat them for price. You just need to specify you don't want the tubes welded in wonky!!!!!

 

[morbias]

They might get the camber correct if you specifically ask them (though I still feel you shouldn't have to!) but who's to say they won't then weld them at the wrong caster angle? Even though it probably wouldn't effect the caster when on the car, it would put extra force on the other suspension components and the control arms would be trying to move in a twisting motion.

Alternatively BC coilovers are £850, and I've read good things about them. However, they do require DIY and I'm not sure my 140W welder is up to it due to the thickness of the metal at the base of the struts, but I think it should be fine with a little assistance from a blow torch. Also they seem to be pretty much fool-proof angle wise as long as you leave 2" of the original strut tube for them to slide over.

 

[Alphabettispaghetti]

Hi Guys, Z Farm are having difficulty setting up my Mallory distributor - apparently they have a different plug sequence from the standard units. I can't find them in the Mallory instructions, does anyone happen to know what they should be? Picture showing layout appreciated.

Best, Nick

If they're stuck there's a few guides to using a mallory on the American sites.

 

[zedhed]

If they're stuck there's a few guides to using a mallory on the American sites.

You mean on the interweb, right?

I'm pretty sure Gaz will sort this out guys - phoned them and they said just send it back and they'll sort. Mistakes happen, and the acid test of any company is how they deal with rectifying it. Also their price was pretty fair for all 4 corners. As long as the strut is square-on, we should be fine, else will look into alternatives. Anyway, we'll see.

These struts have been a pain in the **** though, first I had to re-drill and tap them because the previous installer forced them on incorrectly. Also I managed to break a tap off in one hole which had to be electroded out. Great fun if you like watching a £15 carbide CNC tap turn into atoms before your very eyes.

Anyway frankly with the amount of BS I've had to absorb getting this car to where I want it to be, this is relatively minor and if I DIY'd it, I'd still be at the shell phase. You get what you pay for eh?

 

[zedhed]

Alternatively BC coilovers are £850, and I've read good things about them. However, they do require DIY and I'm not sure my 140W welder is up to it due to the thickness of the metal at the base of the struts, but I think it should be fine with a little assistance from a blow torch. Also they seem to be pretty much fool-proof angle wise as long as you leave 2" of the original strut tube for them to slide over.

the standard casings were milled out to accept the tubes so that isn't an option

I wonder how they will do it though - they have to mill out the welded-in casings which are no-doubt mild steel and probably now as hard as diamond due to fast cooling of previous welds

I guess we'll see. I'll post up more about the saga as we go eh?

 

[Alphabettispaghetti]

Let us know how they get on with the ignition, I've a new mallory one to fit in the year 2035 when i'm at that stage. It all looks simple in the instructions.

 

[zNathan]

LOL yes - well I think he meant that the spark will occur, it’s just that when the piston position is in a way different position, you won’t “hear” the spark and the engine won’t start, which can be mistaken for no spark... Anyway I'll get the to bottom of this when I get the car - find out if it's the module or just installation.

Another apparent issue is that Gaz allegedly welded the one of the strut casings in at the wrong angle creating excessive negative camber on the offside rear wheel, so I'll be chasing that up too...

Looks like we're in for some delays ...

I saw your car the other day, the rear right Gaz strut was way off... I don't understand how they manage it or why considering your right left was fine.....

Hopefully they get it sorted soon, your engine bay looked very nice

 

[zedhed]

Well here's the latest update - apparently the strut casing is aligned and it's the wishbone which is out of true...

 

[morbias]

How is that even possible, the arm is a set length. If the arm is damaged then it's more likely to affect toe, or maybe I'm not understanding correctly what they're saying the probem is.

 

[Alphabettispaghetti]

Have they got your Mallory going?