L26 - Best Upgrades

s2k_adz

Club Member
Hey guys,

As some of you know I am in the process of restoring a 260Z. When I first bought the car, the plan was to ditch the L26 and put a more modern and reliable engine in it. However, having had a ride in Gareths (Nospark) 240Z, he's kind of convinced me to stay L series. That sound :driving:

Anyway, the engine in my car hasn't turned in about 10 years, but does seem free. I am looking to rebuild this and replace anything that needs to be replaced in the process.

I was just wondering what I should look at getting to maybe boost the power/reliability of it slightly. I know carbs are a must for a performance upgrade, but what about cams etc?

Many thanks!
 

status

Well-Known Forum User
You can bore it out so it is a little bigger than a 280zx,did that to one of my engines few years back,someone on here will be able to tell you more about that,next question is how much money you got,go Throttle bodies,instant power although i did like my dellorto's 48's,my oreference
 
I think before you start buying stuff in a random fashion you should have a think about what you want from the engine and how you want it to feel, then build/buy based on that.

How do you want the engine to feel?
What are you going to do with it?
Whats your general plans for the car?
 

s2k_adz

Club Member
The car is mainly going to be a weekend car. I'm completely restoring it so I don't plan on tracking it or anything like that.

I want the car to feel fast but controlled. I've had several S2000s and I do enjoy the high revving nature of those engines though. I don't want mental power and I don't want to go FI.

I'm just after a few ideas that won't completely break the bank but would give the engine a lift! Obv a new manifold, exhaust and carbs I'd imagine would release a few more ponies and make revving a little more free. I'm not sure I want to go as far as to boring it out.
 

SKiddell

Well-Known Forum User
I think before you start buying stuff in a random fashion you should have a think about what you want from the engine and how you want it to feel, then build/buy based on that.

How do you want the engine to feel?
What are you going to do with it?
Whats your general plans for the car?

I thinks thats good advice, what do you want from it, whats it going to be doing and don't think you have to have triples, too many people think that just because its got a set of triples on its got to be more powerful (more powahhhh)

A mismatched set of triples can make the car dreadfully undrivable, unreliable and a fire hazard but a set of well looked after and modified SU's can support well over 210 HP
 
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zNathan

Well-Known Forum User
If you go for triples and an exhaust system, you may want to look into getting your head polished & ported and maybe a more aggressive cam? People usually recommend a Stage 2 cam as a Mild / Streetable cam which brings power in from around 3 - 7k rpm.

How much are you willing to spend as this stuff can get quite expensive! :p
 
A 1 5/8's system, cam, the head tidied up, lighter fly wheel should give you what you need without spending too much. Exhaust and cam would be the best way as a starting block maybe?
 

nospark

Well-Known Forum User
Adam,
As you've said, if you're into speed, that comes through modern car ownership (eg S2000). May i humbly suggest that the Z is about cool (my opinion). Yes, a bit of poke maybe but cool is its niche. I had a Porche Cayman buzzing around me the other week. Speed/performance is the Porche's niche so it would be stupid to 'play' with modern cars in a carburettored Z. Just look and sound cool in the Z. Perhaps that is what you want from your Z.

My car sounds good because of its exhaust system and Janspeed manifold. But I wouldn't call it quick. Quick ain't the point for me.

You are probably aware of the following books:
"How to Rebuild your Nissan and Datsun OHC engine"
"How to modify your Nissan and Datsun OHC engine"
and for newbies to car mechanicals, like me:-
"Hilliers Fundamentals of Motor Vehicle Technology" (i've got the 5th edition)
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Well said Mr No Spark! Looking, sounding and driving retro is the Z to me.

I personally enjoy a spirited Z drive (such a pleasure) but wouldn't want to hurl her around as I used to with the S2k. I think Adam is on the same page TBH.

Adam, you know better than most how phenomenal the S2k's brakes are. Although not bad, the Z is at the other end of the spectrum, so if you enjoy a regular spirited drive, you may wish to consider the tried and tested four pot calliper and vented disc conversion.

Replacing the original alternator with a 280zx internally regulated one, changing over the points to a 280zx electronic dizzy and coil + Magnacore HT leads transformed my otherwise pretty standard engine's performance / responsiveness. The next big difference came when I replaced the 240z carbs that came with the car for some remanufactured / reconditioned z-therapy ones of the same type. Night and day difference on the running of the car. Not sure how many ponies it released but the car feels so much keener revving and more torquey around the whole rev range. These are all really easy to fit and relatively cheap gains.

In addition to what's been said so far, there are lots of tips in the link below that may be useful (or fun anyway) to read ...

http://www.datsunzgarage.com/engine/

Before you go doing big stuff have a good chat to Skidell and PMAC who will give you a very experienced reality check on your mods.

Looking forward to reading about your thoughts / direction!!



Ali K
 

Stockdale

Club Member
If its all about performance maybe the best upgrade would be to sell it and get a 370 Z:thumbs:

Old road-going Z's are no match for modern machinery and I really don't see the point in going any great distance down the modding route unless you are in to track day or racing stuff. My wife has a Mini Cooper S (its a BMW really) and is terrifyingly fast if that what you want. They are much cheaper to buy and much quicker on the road than a 240/260Z:confused:
 

status

Well-Known Forum User
Not quicker than my zed,but then it is a totally different kettle of fish,i was clocking a cooper s joining the m11 a few months back quick enough but nothing special had to show him the way if you know wot i mean,but agree they are quicker than a standard Zed,might be my next car but an estate version,its all about classic car motoring in a way which you dont get in modern cars,you dont get the feel,the smells,the bumps and the sounds,a well sorted Zed is a totally different car to drive and great fun round the lanes
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
I like your sense of humour :lol:...performance and 370z don't go hand in hand ( in my book) at least:eek::smash:

You need to back that up with examples where the 370Z is lacking in performance compared to a Datsun.

It lacks character, engine/exhaust sound and winter driving capability but it sure performs well.
 

datsfun

Club Member
You need to back that up with examples where the 370Z is lacking in performance compared to a Datsun.

It lacks character, engine/exhaust sound and winter driving capability but it sure performs well.

Rob, the recommendation from stockdale was if you need a performance car, get a 370z. There was no reference to datsun and we all know that like for like the 370z is far superior to any datsun performance wise. If it was simply comparing performance to the old datsun, even a z32 is superior.

However , when you eliminate the reference to datsun ...and read the statement which classifies the 370z as a performance car, I am in disagreement.:eek:There are Lots of ( modern) faster and more able cars come to mind which I personally would put into the " performance category":smash:

All IMHO:)
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Adz, I would suggest you strip the engine (as you intend to do) and see what condition it's in. If everthing needs replacing then try to obtain a 2.8. If it's pretty good and just needs bearings, valve springs etc then probably best to just do that but fit 240Z carbs and a 6 branch.

However some ideas:

If it needs a rebore/pistons consider going to 2.8 bore size (+ 3mm). That will up your compression ratio too. There is a risk here though with cylinder wall thickness but I was fine with my 240. Maybe get the rebore done before buying any pistons ;). How is a block tested for thickness?

If the valves/seats are worn then I have read somewhere that 260Zs have larger (280) exhaust valves than a 240 but the same inlets (something to do with emissions - seems strange). If yours is like that then fit the larger inlets of a 280.

However as I said once you start doing this you may be better going 2.8 with an L28.
 

s2k_adz

Club Member
Thanks for all your replies guys!

I am fully aware that the Z will never perform in the same way as a modern car and I have no desire to make it as such. I have an MX5 Turbo I will be using for track days etc and a daily car for work. The Z is purely going to be for weekend drives and fun in the sun :thumbs:

However, seen as the engine is being fully stripped down it made sense to me to upgrade a few things partly for reliability and partly as replacing things for better specced things can sometimes be cheaper than trying to make the original things good again!

Rob and AliK seem to understand what I mean. I will definitely be upgrading the front brakes and doing a disk conversion on the rear. I dont want to make the car loose it's 70s charm and feel but I would like to make the car safer and more reliable!
 

status

Well-Known Forum User
weekend drive's and fun in the sun,dont waste yer money on the rear brake upgrade,you wont need it,more for those into track days,best option is 4 pot calipers at the front
 

SKiddell

Well-Known Forum User
Adz

Don’t under estimate the S30 for its performance and handling potential.

The barrier you need to address is twofold, money and expectations

With the right budget and realistic expectations the Z can outperform and dent many track stars pride and ego and "could" easily make your MX5 turbo look like its standing still (no disrespect) the trick is getting the balance right between the two aforementioned (money and expectations)

In the end it’s up to you but be wary of just bolting stuff on, the drive train is an amalgam of tuned parts and throwing an exhaust on here or a cam in there will invariably result in disappointment or underachievement, consider an integrated program of upgrades.
 
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