Clutch Question - Collar length again

[SKiddell]

On a new clutch, slip happens because the bearing doesn’t become fully disengaged and keeps pressure on the cover so reducing the clamping force on the friction disc, if you have free play (try and move the arm forwards and backwards it should move by a few mm)when the clutch is in its normal "rest state", i.e. foot off, pedal up, and the cover is applying the most clamping force, then it’s not the bearing, carrier or the arm as they are effectively disconnected and dormant therefore not influencing the disc and cover.

Clearly something else is going on here

 

[Mr.G]

Thanks for the input Steve.

When I installed the clutch, I did check for play on the arm and didn't feel stiffness or got the impression the bearing was sitting on the fingers. Also, there is play on the pedal - you can push the pedal down with your fingers and it will move about 5mm before it gets too stiff to move by hand.

Today, I did 110 miles of relaxed driving with lots of nice and progressive gear changing. I'm going to complete the break in cycle, ACT recommend 200 miles (read that this morning) and then try again.

If this doesnt work, then I will try an adjustable pushrod and adjust it shorter (I realise that this is a crutch) but at least if it improves/alleviates the slipping it will prove that the friction plate wasnt disengaging fully.

Does anyone have any other ideas? And Steve I guess from your experience you have found that clutches don't need a break in period per se?

 

[Nigel Brook]

So what was the ACT diaphragm spring height ?

 

[Mr.G]

Ok, you all must be getting fed up by now with my clutch issues...

Nigel from memory, I measured the pressure plate width up to the fingers and it was 48 or 50mm.

Going back to what Skiddel said about movement of the control fork, well at the time of instalation I thought it appeared to not rest on the fingers. I tried again today from the engine bay looking above the slave and the fork - the fork wont move back at all when i push it with my hand, which is consistent with thoughts that it may be sitting on the pressure plate's fingers and is not disengaging properly.

Not sure what the next steps should be now, can you reduce the pressure that the master cylinder is producing so that the pushrod is not sitting as far out at rest?

 

[Mr.F]

If your pedal free play is correct, then the master cylinder will be producing no pressure at rest and the problem then lies with the carrier height / fork position...

I have a sense of deja vu

 

[Mr.G]

Mike I think the problem lies with me and not the fork or the carrier.

All seems to be working fine now, operater error!!!

She pulls nice and hard, what i thought was slipping before may have been the external wastegate as I hit 1bar of boost.

Mr.F - you were right about needing to use the rigid oil pan gasket (told you so I hear you say) rather then the Nissan one. The thing is leaking, quite strangely from one of the bolts, I jacked the car up wiped the offending bolt and it weeped again. Really odd .. Have you heard of this before?

Also, I have wetness at the rear of the pan, had this with the oem pan, I think this could be attributed to rear seals, can they be changed easily with the engine in situ with the car on ramps?