A few 370Z mods

Paul_S

Club Member
Hi all,

I had a busy few days over the weekend fitting an Abbey Motorsport / RJN oil cooler, Whiteline front and rear ARB's and uprated drop links.

Here are a few pics:
gallery_245_422_300013.jpg


gallery_245_428_1846833.jpg


gallery_245_424_294913.jpg


gallery_245_424_378859.jpg


I've been thinking about an oil cooler for some time and I think it's something you really need if you're giving it some.

The Anti Roll Bars are a revelation - and I've only got them on the softest setting so far (which is still stiffer than standard).
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Hi Paul, yep oil cooler a good idea I reckon. However you don't have to be 'giving it some' to get the oil hot, my oil gets hot when in traffic etc. You may remember the Thread I posted about my engine management system 'kicking in' and limiting performance. Not done any prolonged fast motoring apart from motorways and it's fine then.

Where does the oil cooler sit - as it is in the photo. If so that seems a bit hidden.

ARBs, interesting what you say about them being stiffer even on the softest setting because they don't look bigger from the photo. I don't feel the need to stiffen roll (no track-work etc) but it would be good to try softer springs with those ARBs. My road springs are quite hard and transmit a lot of road noise and vibration on 'ribbed' surfaces.

You like your mods don't you. :devil:
 

Paul_S

Club Member
I find high revs and short sections of straight roads make the temp high. I plan to track it some time soon and I decided it needed the cooler first.

The oil cooler is fixed to the crash bar at an angle with a scoop below the bar. That way, it takes in cool air and doesn't block the radiator.

The ARBs are quite a lot heavier duty (and heavier!) These 2 pics show them better:
gallery_245_424_100125.jpg


gallery_245_424_14475.jpg
 

Mr.F

Inactive
350Z anti-roll bars are tubular, so wall thickness can have a dramatic effect without the overall diameter changing greatly.
 

Mr.F

Inactive
By selecting different combinations of holes you can make the car neutral, a bit oversteery (not a word but you know what I mean) or a bit understeery...
On the front bar, the middle position would be neutral, the inner hole increases oversteer and the outer hole increases understeer (source: Stillen).
 

Paul_S

Club Member
Yep, I've yet to play with the different settings. All I know is on the softest level at both ends it turns sharper, corners flatter, doesn't 'float' in bumpy high speed corners any more, and appears to be more stable under braking too.

I'm a very happy bunny!
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
350Z anti-roll bars are tubular, so wall thickness can have a dramatic effect without the overall diameter changing greatly.
Ahh that explians it then if the 370Z is the same.

By selecting different combinations of holes you can make the car neutral, a bit oversteery (not a word but you know what I mean) or a bit understeery...
On the front bar, the middle position would be neutral, the inner hole increases oversteer and the outer hole increases understeer (source: Stillen).
Mmmm I don't follow that. My logic tells me that by using the outer hole the bar will be softer. If it's softer on the front then I would expect the car to tend to oversteer. By outer hole you mean towards the end of the bar?


Yep, I've yet to play with the different settings. All I know is on the softest level at both ends it turns sharper, corners flatter, doesn't 'float' in bumpy high speed corners any more, and appears to be more stable under braking too.
But it may be a bit more nervous in the wet.
 

Mr.F

Inactive
By using the outer hole the leverage of the bar is increased, transferring more force to the opposite wheel when loaded - these are effectively torsion bars. On a rally car one might put a skinny front bar on (less transfer of force) and couple it with a thick rear bar to give a very "tail happy" combination.

A well-matched set of front and rear anti-roll (anti-sway in USA) bars is probably (IMO) the best handling mod you can apply to any Z model.

Roll adverts:
MJP (Eastern Auto) can supply matched sets of ARBs for all Z and ZX models - don't be afraid to ask.they are quite economical by comparison to struts and shocks.
End of advert break...
 

Paul_S

Club Member
I'm with Rob, I think the outer hole will be softer too because it has more leverage on the bar.

You got me thinking so I just checked and found this on Whiteline's web site:
gallery_245_424_10751.gif


Thanks for the tip about it being more twitchy in the wet. I'll look out for that!!

I totally agree about the cost Vs benefits with ARBs. They are an inexpensive way of improving your car and you start to benefit from the very first corner.
 
In that case have a word with Nissan because it was standard before I put these on! :smash:

You misunderstood, if you read the Stainforth books he explains how with a very very good setup you shouldn't need them, also that they can be used to cover issues to allow a more 'all round' setup.
 

Paul_S

Club Member
Ah right, thanks for clearing that up! :)

I'm pleased to say that the car performed flawlessly during our European road trip - 5 days, 6 countries, and 1155 miles.
 

Ian

Club Member
I know a few people that don't run any anti-roll bars and prefer it that way, haven't tried it myself though, I think it more for a track setup when they are running stiff springs to limit roll.

Was thinking about changing mine after I get my setup properly dialled in. But I need to see about moving the position of my rear bar so I can extend the frame rails.
 

z32bolt

Well-Known Forum User
I know a few people that don't run any anti-roll bars and prefer it that way, haven't tried it myself though, I think it more for a track setup when they are running stiff springs to limit roll.

Was thinking about changing mine after I get my setup properly dialled in. But I need to see about moving the position of my rear bar so I can extend the frame rails.

Yeah more of a track set up, some feel it gives them a more progressive feel. Really stiff arbs can make the car extremely twitchy.which can land you backwards very quickly.
 

Mr HollowPoint

Well-Known Forum User
Looking good.

Little bit of a thread hijack, but can ARBs help soften the car up at all? I ask, because our Z32 now has completely custom suspension, except for the ARBs and the lower arms, the car is stiff as hell in corners and looking at pictures of it on the track, it just isn't rolling at all in corners and can begin to feel very twitchy at tracks like Castle Combe, where the last thing you want is a twitchy car in the corners.
 

Ian

Club Member
I think any change to the ARB's other than smaller will make the car stiffer and more twitchy.


If the springs are too stiff that could make it twitchy, could also be the geo setup.
 

z32bolt

Well-Known Forum User
Maybe you could soften up the spring/dampening. It would be best to have it set up properly by a racing company, corner weighting is it called? ESP considering the changes that have been made to the cars weight distribution ie your mobile disco lol.
 

Mr HollowPoint

Well-Known Forum User
Maybe you could soften up the spring/dampening. It would be best to have it set up properly by a racing company, corner weighting is it called? ESP considering the changes that have been made to the cars weight distribution ie your mobile disco lol.

lol @ Mobile disco - indeed.

Yeah I think I need to adjust the spring rates a little, as I have them set at the MeisterR stock recommended level, but as you say, the car has been made lighter in some areas and much heavier in others.
 
Top